Cost Effective Mustang Turbo Setup

Ok I was doing some searches on turboing a stang (99 GT) and say prices that caused a jaw drop. Im talking 6k-9k+ for a kit. Now I always have prefered turbo over belt driven induction, but it doesnt seem cost effective. Even "kits" for supercharged applications cost 3.8k+. So I was wondering what the lowest priced, but decent gain way to go is? If I did alot of salvage parting, would it be a decent price? I mean i Have seen Honda kits for 2.5k, and us faster cars have to pay 3 times that? Any suggestions/comments?

As an addon to the question, how about what parts are NEEDED and what parts are recomended.

Kits are overpriced, why not make your own kit!

Thats kinda why I was asking what parts are needed.

j/w, why does your sig say you dont own your stang yet?

EDIT: oh yeah and to answer your question, i think the reason mustang turbos are so much more expensive than jap turbos is displacement.

A 4 banger is gonna need a certain amount of flow to run. X amount of boost will raise that amount of flow.

A V8 is gonna need twice that amount of flow to run. Your turbo will need 2X as much force to create that much boost per cylinder. Ultimately, a turbo can create as much boost as it wants, but when you're dividing its output air into 16 valves instead of 8, you're gonna need alot more air to go in in the first place, i.e twice as much boost.

...i think. someone tell me why im wrong

I dont own my stang yet. And after I own it ill be broke. Which will give me time to learn the car and save. As of now I am researching what parts will give me performance I want, when the time is right. I would rather know ahead of time, then make a rash and expensive decision at the last moment.

Your theory does make sense, however the turbos are not build directly for the stang anyway, They are companies like Garrett ect, who make them for Jap engines. The kits just include all the right parts to get a turbo running on a stang.

I am going to start doing more research, Like I said, I want to know as much as possible about everything, before screwing up the slightest thing. If anyone is interested in the same topic, I came across a site called Turbomustangs.com. Site totally dedicated to turbo-ing a mustang.

The amount of boost a turbocharger can produce is certainly limited.

Larger turbochargers are usually not that much more expensive than smaller ones. But it's likely that they use two turbochargers instead of one with V engines.

But since a normal turbocharger shouldn't cost much more than $1000, or even less it shouldn't be that expensive unless they charge quite a lot for turbochargers, exhaust manifolds (which you will also need two of) and so on.

Then it's possible that the engine needs stronger rods, pistons and so on.

With some info about the engine it will be much easier to list the things that you need to turbocharge it.

From what I gathered, the 4.6L Stangs can carry 30% more power then stock before replacing internals, So on the 260 hp stock it should be good to 338ish. However if I am going to put the money into turboing the engine, Which like i said is all hypothetical, I would be looking to pass the 340 range.

To increase the power by 30% you usually only needs about .3 bar of boost, that's very low.

Using about .5 bar you will get almost 400 hp.

A good turbocharger in this class, using a twin setup could be a MHI TD04HL-15T-5 or similar. In a twin setup they will have a capacity for 500-550 hp, while also offer a fast spool up and a low boost threshold.

The turbochargers should be used with an intercooler, suitable ones can be found on small trucks.

Exhaust manifolds and downpipes must be manufactured, preferbly in stainless steel, at meast the manifold. It's recommended that you change the whole exhaust system.

Pressurised oil must be taken from the engine, and a oil return with a large diameter must be made which returns the oil back to the sump over the oil line.

Coolant to the turbocharger should be taken from a low pressurised place to the turbocharger and from the turbocharger to a high place like the water outlet in the cylinder head.

The most difficult part is probably o solve the fuel. This also depends on the fuel system and engine management how to solve it.

MHI TD04HL-15T-5 or similar.

The most difficult part is probably o solve the fuel. This also depends on the fuel system and engine management how to solve it.

Ok first I am very new to forced inductions so what exactly does the code mean? Have any links to the turbo?

How would I go about solving the fuel problem? Would it have to get sent to a shop, or would i be able to learn to do it myself?


Then it's possible that the engine needs stronger rods, pistons and so on.
What exactly is needed. The farthest of my knowledge is forged internals? What does that include past pistons. Sorry for coming off with so many questions, I am currently printing turbo tech, and hope it will answer most if not all of my ?s.

Ok first I am very new to forced inductions so what exactly does the code mean? Have any links to the turbo?

How would I go about solving the fuel problem? Would it have to get sent to a shop, or would i be able to learn to do it myself?


What exactly is needed. The farthest of my knowledge is forged internals? What does that include past pistons. Sorry for coming off with so many questions, I am currently printing turbo tech, and hope it will answer most if not all of my ?s.
TD04HL-15T-5 is a turbocharger from Japanese manufacturer Mitsubishi Heavy Industries. TD04 is the series, basicly the core, 15 is the size of the compressor, T is the impeller design, 5 is the size of the turbine house in cm^2.
This turbocharger is for example found in several of Saabs cars, but similar models are used by for example Volvo, Mitsubishi and Opel.

Since it's used by several manufacturers it's usually possible to find turbochargers that aren't that expensive. It's a very suitable turbocharger for this type of application and offer fast spool up and kicks in at a low engine speed.

To solve the fuel is usually the biggest problem and there are several ways to solve this; one can use an extra fuel injector that kicks in at boost just like a cold start system, one can modify the OEM box, obe can use a progressive fuel injector, a piggyback system can be used or an aftermarket ECU can be fitted. The better, the more costly usually. Also, if you think you're going to modify the engine again it can be good to for example invest in an aftermarket ECU that allows you to adjust the engine with a computer but it also require some skill.

Reinforcing the internal depends on what needs to be reinforced. Typical things are pistons, con-rods and head gaskets but at higher power levels crankshaft, bearings, cylinder liners, combustion chamber and so on can also need to be replaced or modified.
For low power outputs that much isn't usually required, but an oilcooler for example is a good investment. Then it's probably pistons and con-rods that are next, but this depends much on the engine.