Replacing Starter on 1993 Range 3.9

So I just recently bought a 1993 Range Rover County 3.9 with about 114K on it, and no less than two weeks after I bought it the car wouldn't start, but just kept turning over (couldn't jump w/a Civic). I towed it to a dealer, and $900 later the roller button, distributer pickup, and amp module were replaced. It worked fine for another week, and then it wouldn't start again, this time it just made one click (couldn't jump w/a Civic). I towed it to a different dealer (closer to my house), and they said the battery had a dead cell in it, and replaced it for a cool $140. So I am running out of money, and not even two days later it wouldn't start AGAIN! It just makes one click and that is it. I was going to have it towed to the dealer again, but the AAA guy said it was probably a bad starter, and that I could replace it rather easily. Well, I bought one, and it isn't becoming that easy of a job to do....lots of parts in the way so it seems. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to get this sucker out (it has Allen head screws)? I would appreciate any advice on the subject. What was a great deal has turned sour quick, and I don't want my wife telling me I told you so for grabbing it so quickly. Sorry for the log post. I'm new here and would love to enjoy my Rover as much as the rest of you...er most of the rest of you do.

It's pretty easy to pull the starter.

First undo the battery cable at the battery.

Unscrew the battery cable from the starter - I can't remember the size even though I took my starter off last week - 1/2" or 9/16"

You'll need an 8mm or 5/16" hex driver - one you can fit to a socket which will be on a long extension bar - to fit the two bolts which hold the starter to the engine. A universal joint is also needed.

With a really long extension, you can do the unbolting from under the front without crawling under too far. In fact it's easier as you can get the long extension in to the top bolt.

Ron

1991 Range Rover starter replacement at 169K miles

Symptom: Starter motor runs (free-run) but does not engage.

Concern: Frozen bolts since I believed this was first removal, over 13 years (confirmed).

Key Tools: 8mm hex socket, 3/8” breaker bar, 6” extension bar, 13mm wrench

1) Disconnect Battery
2) Remove heat shield from exhaust manifold (2-13mm bolts) to access top bolt
3) Loosen and re-tighten lower 8mm hex bolt (this gives indication of difficulty)
4) Clean top bolt if required (carb. cleaner, rag on small screw driver)
5) Insert 8mm hex into top bolt with 6” extension bar, use breaker bar from below.
6) Note: upper bolt holds ground strap going to frame
7) Remove lower bolt (which also holds lower heat shield)
8) Remove lower heat shield which is clipped on to solenoid
9) From above pull starter back-end up and remove small wire from solenoid
10) Cut plastic strap holding large cable to solenoid (this is + feed to chassis)
11) Remove 13mm nut holding battery cable and chassis + feed
12) Reverse procedure for installation (also: clean and sand the lugs on battery wire and + feed prior to connecting to solenoid)

There is limited access from below but sufficient. Rotate hex socket for best alignment for breaker bar. I tried using 6”+10” extension bars on top bolt. It cleared the engine mount but I could not get a straight shot at bolt. This combination may work with an universal joint (I tried this before removing heat shield.). Also with upper heat shield off it may be possible to get top bolt from above...try it and let us know.

Original starter: Magnetti Marelli M78 (aka Lucas) manufactured June 1990

I took starter to a local electrical rebuild shop. Cost was $135 pre-tax.

Failure: This is a gear reduction type starter. Plastic gear used in reduction was stripped of teeth. Of course, many other items were bad condition.

Replacement starter: Bosche (I believe SR0802X). It was about 1.5” longer. Shop said it was better, used in later models. I read it is better cold start. Same 1.4kw rating.

Below is application and substitution charts I found, use at your own risk !!

From: PRECISION PARTS AND REMANUFACTURING, 4411 S. W. 19TH OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73108

http://www.pprok.com/pweb/c/wbg?v_pn=LUS801
http://www.pprok.com/pweb/c/wic?v_pn=LUS801

PPR P/N:LUS801 Applications
Model Year Engine

Defender
92-95 3900cc
Defender
96-98 4000cc (V-8)
Discovery
94-95 3900cc
Discovery
96-02 4000cc (V-8)
Discovery
03-03 4600cc (V-8)
Range Rover
87-88 3500cc (V-8)
Range Rover
89-92 3900cc (V-8)
Range Rover
93-97 3900cc (V-8)
Range Rover
93-02 4000cc (V-8)
Range Rover
96-98 4200cc (V-8)
Range Rover
96-02 4600cc (V-8)

PPR P/N: LUS801
OE PN Manufacturer

17453 LESTER
1870467 BECK/ARNLEY
26801 LUCAS
26801H LUCAS
PRC5658 ROVER
RTC5228 ROVER
RTC5228N ROVER
RTC6061N ROVER
S2804 LUCAS
SR0802X BOSCH

I checked many sources with many different combinations of model year and P/N recommendations. This seems to be the best overview. From this is appears starters can be broadly substituted contrary to most sources of information but do your homework.

I agree with the above the starter is not that difficult to do.

When you brake it down these things are just rusty ol nuts and bolts eh?

Let us know how you fare...

and checkout www.get-rhino.com (http://www.get-rhino.com) we need the exposure. :)