Tensioner Pullley
Buick Enthusiast
09-02-2004, 07:15 AM
I would lick to change the pulley on my tensioner arm but I undersatnd they can crack easily.
Are there any tricks?
Are there any tricks?
the_doctor
09-27-2004, 01:40 AM
I'm wondering the same thing . . .
Do you turn the nut clockwise to remove the pulley since turning it counter-clockwise only pivots the mechanism to release tension?
Do you turn the nut clockwise to remove the pulley since turning it counter-clockwise only pivots the mechanism to release tension?
the_doctor
11-11-2004, 02:33 AM
I replaced the pulley a few weeks ago. Turn it clockwise to loosen it. Don't forget to take the belt off first. Very easy job. However it didn't fix my rattle.
parkavenuechrome
11-11-2004, 11:00 AM
A rattle in that area could be either a water pump bearing or the timing chain itself.
deadring
11-11-2004, 12:15 PM
*shivers to the tought of it* i heard that a water pump is not so fun to do on a PA i hope i dont do mine soon....
Deadring
Deadring
creslevi
11-12-2004, 10:49 AM
I would lick to change the pulley on my tensioner arm but I undersatnd they can crack easily.
Are there any tricks?
I replaced my pulley a couple months ago looking for a Rattle/noise that was transmitting to everything in the area, It turned out to be the ALT. that I had dismissed becuse it was only 10 months old, So I wasted $16.00 on the pulley but it was very easy to change, Take off the Serp.belt and remove the center bolt only. Left hand thread (clockwise to remove).
I also changed my water pump last year, about $65.00 for a rebuilt, next time I think I will spring for a new one JUST Because of what's involved. The hardest part to me was cleaning the block good enough but I got it done with no leaks, If you do the pump be aware some cars have a plastic/PVC type water bypass fitting in the intake manifold and when I touched it, It broke off flush with the manifold and I had to drill it out, so if you can change this before it breaks you are extremely lucky, and a short heater hose type bypass hose running back to the top of the water pump, Mine was dripping and thank goodness I saw it while I was changing the Alt. So I would suggest changing both the fitting and the bypass hose, they are famous for breaking due to high heat,( The new one's are Metal and I think a dealer item as they have a grove for an O ring machined into the top of the threads so it won't leak ) At least mine hasn't and it's been a year now
Mine is not a PA it's a LeSabre 94 with 216,000 and going strong. (For the Water Pump removal)The Engine mount also has to come off both halves (Block and Body)not a big deal just a pain to have to support the engine on a jack, and when the mount is off jack up the enging just enough to get the pump off, Hope this helps.
Rick
PS
I know it looks like only one half the mount needs to come off but, There's a hook built into it to stop the engine from torqueing up if the rubber mount should fail, That's why the whole mount has to come off, it hooks into the body half of the mount, Bot that looks confusing I hope not ! any questions please feel free to E-mail me directly [email protected]
Are there any tricks?
I replaced my pulley a couple months ago looking for a Rattle/noise that was transmitting to everything in the area, It turned out to be the ALT. that I had dismissed becuse it was only 10 months old, So I wasted $16.00 on the pulley but it was very easy to change, Take off the Serp.belt and remove the center bolt only. Left hand thread (clockwise to remove).
I also changed my water pump last year, about $65.00 for a rebuilt, next time I think I will spring for a new one JUST Because of what's involved. The hardest part to me was cleaning the block good enough but I got it done with no leaks, If you do the pump be aware some cars have a plastic/PVC type water bypass fitting in the intake manifold and when I touched it, It broke off flush with the manifold and I had to drill it out, so if you can change this before it breaks you are extremely lucky, and a short heater hose type bypass hose running back to the top of the water pump, Mine was dripping and thank goodness I saw it while I was changing the Alt. So I would suggest changing both the fitting and the bypass hose, they are famous for breaking due to high heat,( The new one's are Metal and I think a dealer item as they have a grove for an O ring machined into the top of the threads so it won't leak ) At least mine hasn't and it's been a year now
Mine is not a PA it's a LeSabre 94 with 216,000 and going strong. (For the Water Pump removal)The Engine mount also has to come off both halves (Block and Body)not a big deal just a pain to have to support the engine on a jack, and when the mount is off jack up the enging just enough to get the pump off, Hope this helps.
Rick
PS
I know it looks like only one half the mount needs to come off but, There's a hook built into it to stop the engine from torqueing up if the rubber mount should fail, That's why the whole mount has to come off, it hooks into the body half of the mount, Bot that looks confusing I hope not ! any questions please feel free to E-mail me directly [email protected]
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026