smoke from behind steering wheel when A/C in on

here goes.
1995 Golf 2.0 automatic 157k mi. It's a work car for my company and we've had it for about 6 mo.
recent work: axles, struts, brakes, A/C recharge, new seats

I took it to a mechanic to change the waterpump and he advised me the diagnostic showed a bad cam position sensor which requires a new distributor ($235). I declined it, because it was running fine. After got it back from the mechanic the check engine light is always on.

Yesterday, while I'm driving it, smoke starts to come out of the steering column. I turned the A/C off and it stops. It's repeatable. So I pull the knee board out and I'm looking for toasted wires or a blown fuse when I notice a wire twisted to one of the leads of a 10A fuse. Maybe someone has seen this before? I haven't. Anyway, the wire is red and it is one that comes out of a main bundle back there. I haven't traced any farther yet. I disconnected the wire it and it does not seem to make a difference anywhere. The smoke symptom still happened a little, but it stopped. The car (and AC) runs fine now. What gives????? I also notice a connector on the generator (red/green) that's disconnected with an open (red/green) connector nearby. The wire/conn's are zip tied back like it's on purpose. Am I getting worked over by the mechanic????

He probably did get the cam (Hall) sensor code as that is normal for checking codes with the engine not running. You would have to recheck the codes to see what is causing the light. Do you have the diagnostic connector near the ashtray? Smoke was probably a shorted wire that now is burnt in two, see if you can find what doesn't work now.

He probably did get the cam (Hall) sensor code as that is normal for checking codes with the engine not running. You would have to recheck the codes to see what is causing the light. Do you have the diagnostic connector near the ashtray? Smoke was probably a shorted wire that now is burnt in two, see if you can find what doesn't work now.

Thanks, Boschman.

I'll try and check for the burnt wire behind the steering wheel. I'm trippin' on how the A/C could be correlated with the steering column. I don't have a diagnostic tool, so the data port probably won't do me any good. Any idea on the disconnected wires going to the generator?

I can tell you a way to get the flash codes since your car is pre OBD-II. Most '95's had the OBD-II style connector beside the ashtray (pull the tray & slide the panel beside it to the left), early ones could have the black & white 2-pin connectors under the shifter boot.

I can tell you a way to get the flash codes since your car is pre OBD-II. Most '95's had the OBD-II style connector beside the ashtray (pull the tray & slide the panel beside it to the left), early ones could have the black & white 2-pin connectors under the shifter boot.

I have the conn. beside the ashtray. 20 pins or something. I'm definitely interested in how to get the codes.

Thanks in advance

You can insert a jumper between pin 4 (top row, 4th from left) and pin 15 (bottom row second from right) with ignition on & engine off. Check engine light will blink a series of four digit codes (it may give one long pause first). For example: one flash pause, three flashes, pause, two flashes pause, five flashes long pause would be code 1325. Post the results. 2113 is the Hall sensor.

You can insert a jumper between pin 4 (top row, 4th from left) and pin 15 (bottom row second from right) with ignition on & engine off. Check engine light will blink a series of four digit codes (it may give one long pause first). For example: one flash pause, three flashes, pause, two flashes pause, five flashes long pause would be code 1325. Post the results. 2113 is the Hall sensor.


That's cool. The result is 2113. I guess I'll see how much the part is going to cost.

Thanks

You don't need to replace the distributor (Hall or cam sensor is in there) as that code is normal for the engine not running when you check the codes. The sensor obviously works since the car runs. Evidentally there were no codes at the time of checking, was the light still on? You may need to drive it until the light comes on then check again. I beleive the way to clear the codes is to insert the wire first then turn the key on (engine not running). The light should flash then go out, then you can turn off the ignition & the codes will be cleared.