1991 chevy lumina

first off let me say hi to y'all & will try to help all i can help on here. well now on with the problem. i have a 91 lumina that i recently done a motor swap on, it goes thru many different problems and phases. first it has trouble starting. if ya mess around with it long enough & with starting fluid it will run for a bit then die. when it gets to running it will run great for a bit then it will try to die & if you hit the gas it will cut out. the flumes are so bad the smell horrible & burn your eyes. then it will take spells where it will idle way to high like around 2200 rpms.then the next moment it will idle round 600 rpms.i have changed the following parts to no avail, map sensor, maf sensor, tbc sensor, crank sensor, its the first time i really been aggrivated with a car in my life would appreiciate any suggestions in advance. thank you very much, ed aka risin_outlaw

sorry its a 3.1l w a.o.d.

When you did the engine swap, did you remember to also swap the ECM? If so, it sounds like a bad ecm to me, but I probably wouldn't just jump to that conclusion right away. Sorry I couldnt be of more help. Good Luck

no i didnt switch it its the same one but the care set idle 6 months before it was gave to me. it also smokes bad when running. ty for suggestion & im about out of options & need to try it. at least i cant think of anything else.

what happened is i got the car & engine givin to me seperately. its set up same as the old blown engine. so i figured the ecm would work. im just a old school wrench havin to learn the new school, lol. & change is hard, lol

What kinda smoke are we talkin'? Wonder if the intake gaskets are bad on this. Suckin' air and coolant.

When I was doing vehicle safety and emissions inspections, I noticed a correlation between the acrid "burn your eyes" kinda exhaust fumes, and an excessively lean condition, causing incomplete combustion.

PM NascarNut, he had a similar issue with a motor swap. Don't know if he ever solved it. His posts are below, like maybe 10 days old.

its the burn your nose & eyes type, at times, then its tolerable, but never goes away, well im going to auto zone to get the key, to test it. let me know if y'all come up with anything. thanks ed aka risin_outlaw

i put new intake gaskets on it.

You know that if any silicone sealant residue or coolant enters the combustion chambers after major work, it ruins the O2 sensors? Just a thought.

Have you done leakdown/compression tests on it yet? Im thinking its a bad/wrong ECM. How about, how old is the gas thats in the tank?

old but i ran gas out, put new gas in & the same. no selant entered inside chambers. i havent done a compression test. but will the key thing i got from auto zone tell me about ecm? thank you all, ed

Dont tell me you wasted money on one of those stupid testers. You can use a paper clip to get the codes from the ECM. Its simple really. Under the dash on the drivers side you find the diagnostic port. ITs black and has I think 12 little plugs on it. You bend a paper clip into a U shape and stick it into the TWO TOP RIGHT plugs. Now turn the ignition to ON but dont start it. The SES light will begin to flash and the radiator fan will cut on to show that the ECM is in diagnostic mode. It will flash a code 12 first. You read a code 12 as, flash, flash flash. Code 34 would be, flash flash flash, flash flash flash flash. There will be short pauses between numbers and long pauses between codes. If the light stays on and the fan is on but the light does NOT FLASH, the ECM is probably faulty.

i paid no money auto zone gave it to me but all it did was flash 12.

i changed ecm to no avail, but ran the test with the key again & this time i got a code 43