I think I'm going to cry..

I just redid my whole head, went through and corrected the valve lash for my cam, triple checked my wires/plugs/dizzy placement, triple checked my timing, the cam gear, and crankpulley are lined up perfect, and the fucking car still won't run, it turns over and over, and sometimes let's out a chug, then i smell gas. I'm about to just call it quits and suicide, I'm almost sorry I decided to do this shit...anyone got any ideas that pop up? Please!! I don't wanna die

did u get the motor at TDC then have the rotor at the #1 spot??


all fuel lines hooked up right?

try turning it over again and hitting the gas? i dunno i'd hafta be there kinda thing

good luck pal, don't give up now. You have come so far.

check your main relay

did u get the motor at TDC then have the rotor at the #1 spot??


all fuel lines hooked up right?

try turning it over again and hitting the gas? i dunno i'd hafta be there kinda thing

rotor for the dizzy? didn't try hitting the gas, i didn't think that really helped fuel injected cars...

check your main relay

For one how would I "check" it, and why would my main relay get screwed up? I'm almost sorry I'm asking I'm afraid of the answer..

is the ecu putting off anything?

not that i can tell, i don't know how to check for codes...

I'm really not sure if this is what he is talking about, but my cooling fan relay went out and turns out one of other relays were the same. So I just swapped them to see if the fan would turn on. I'm not sure if that helps any.

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-111.jpg

sometimes stuff just goes out like that, at the worst times.

did you plug in all your sensors? Make sure they are all back, assuming you unpluged some, then take off your negative battery terminal for a half hour to reset the ECU.

rotor for the dizzy? didn't try hitting the gas, i didn't think that really helped fuel injected cars...


yea, rotate ur motor over by hand with the dizzy cap off and get it to TDC and see if the rotors at the #1 spot, if its not then unbolt the dizzy and rotate the rotor 180 degrees and bolt the dizzy back in and try it again,

did you plug in all your sensors? Make sure they are all back, assuming you unpluged some, then take off your negative battery terminal for a half hour to reset the ECU.


half hour!?! u pull the hazard fuse for like 5 mins or neg cable for 10

Really, the only sesors I had to take off was the temp sens, and the other thing right next to it on the block..the map and tps stayed on the intake manifold..so i don't know what else to check...I'll see if maybe my o2 sensor got busted off, but would that not make the car run? it sounds like the timing is just waaaaay of somehow...but HOW!?@?!?!?

to check for codes pull back the carpet on the passengers side foot well, try to start the car and see if its blinking a code ... if it is look for the codes on : http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/default.htm

if it sounds like the timings waaaaaaaaaay off then do what i said first

^^ agreed

I tried that, and it won't let me bolt the dizzy back on when I turn it 180

unless i can move the rotor inside without the fork on the outside moving....

u dont turn the whole dizzy, just the rotor so its at the #1 position cuz i believe it bolts in one way only (the rotor)

rotate it, not spin it.

i know lol i didn't try to turn the whole dizzy, i turned the little 2 pronged fork on the outside that goes into the cam, i turned that 180 and it won't even go back in straight....

^^ made sence in my head. oh yeah, you could have just switch the wires to make them the opposite (switch the wire with the one directly accross from it) and it will correct it if its 180 off.

ok silentchamber, ur gonna take over helping, i'm going to bed because its 2:44 am! and i have to install a deck tommorow at noon :(


good luck bud

^^ made sence in my head. oh yeah, you could have just switch the wires to make them the opposite (switch the wire with the one directly accross from it) and it will correct it if its 180 off.

i need to go to bed to i have to get up at 7:30...i will try this stuff tommorow, thanks for the help guys....i'm going to bed

well... I guess I'll go masterbate or something


< Wanker

half hour!?! u pull the hazard fuse for like 5 mins or neg cable for 10

I'm just going by experience. Takes my cutlass a half hour to reset with the neg cable off.

well... I guess I'll go masterbate or something


< Wanker


TMI man... TMI!

Sounds to me like you need to do the rotor thing, also is the firing order the same?

Sounds to me like you need to do the rotor thing, also is the firing order the same?

I did the rotor thing, it's correct...this is how I have it set up. check out the other thread "Spark sequence in a z6?"

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=277985

TMI man... TMI!

TMI?

haha, too much info

IT RUNS! IT F#*$()yf ;LSDKING RUNS I CAN'T BELIEVE IT! Somehow through my massive confusion I guess, the plug wires were connected wrong, it start up and runs!! But the timing might need to be adjusted for the cam. When I hit higher rpms it starts kicking and sputtering...I'm just happy I have somewhere to start!!! WOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

can we get like a 10 smiley limit? when theres that many (29 to be exact) it looks like there evil.. .

::curls up in fetal position and cries::

sure no prob

btw the car runs great now..the dizzy was loose. Now i just don't think vtec is actuating..gotta figure out how the hell to work a VAFC...

you took the oil jet out right?

What's a dizzy? O and something else...don't laugh...what is a v-tech, and why the hype over them?

^^^ he allready fixed it.

What's a dizzy? O and something else...don't laugh...what is a v-tech, and why the hype over them?

Dizzy=Distributor

V-tech is a cheap portable phone "VTEC" is Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control A Honda proprietary system in which cam timing, valve duration and lift is varied according to the needs of the driver -- fuel economy (normal driving) and power (pedal to the metal). Each cam has two profiles and rpm determines the shifting from one profile to the other.

I don't think it's that great if your car came with it, but if you have a really small car like the older civics and then upgrade to it, it can have it's advantages as you can see from the definition.


BTW I did get the oil control jet out...

its good to see you got most of your issues worked out..

on the VAFC, when you go to the monitor mode, is it correctly showing your engine RPM? If so, then the only thing you should have to do is go to "Setting mode", then "V/T Cont", then set "L->H" to about 5000, & "H->L" to about 4800.

As long as you have the VTEC wire running to the solenoid, it should work. If not, there are a couple things you can do to test.

First, hook a wire from 12 volt power source directly to teh VTEC solenoid wire (after disconnecting the VAFC wire from it first, of course) and if the solenoid clicks, you know that it is good. Next, you can remove the solenoid from the head and check to see that the screen inside isnt clogged.

It should work :P

its good to see you got most of your issues worked out..

on the VAFC, when you go to the monitor mode, is it correctly showing your engine RPM? If so, then the only thing you should have to do is go to "Setting mode", then "V/T Cont", then set "L->H" to about 5000, & "H->L" to about 4800.

As long as you have the VTEC wire running to the solenoid, it should work. If not, there are a couple things you can do to test.

First, hook a wire from 12 volt power source directly to teh VTEC solenoid wire (after disconnecting the VAFC wire from it first, of course) and if the solenoid clicks, you know that it is good. Next, you can remove the solenoid from the head and check to see that the screen inside isnt clogged.

It should work :P

Ok, awesome that's what I needed to know.