engine tickin

HEllO everyone,

I own a 1986 chevy c10 scottsdale. It burns oil and every time i try to acceleratefaster than normal there is a dominant sound coming from the engine. A sort of tickin clankin sound. I believe the sound is pre ignition and it gets worse when i have more wieght in the truck. If anyone has any ideas it would be very much appreciated.

do you have computer control still on your truck, or has someone gutted out all the electronics? I would try a higher octane gas just to see if the knock goes away, however your truck was designed to run on low octane gas. If your getting a knock or ping under acceleration, you may have a faulty knock sensor, or your timing may be off, you may even have to "hot" of a spark plug. Last with the growing number of miles on those year trucks, I would consider replacing the valve stem seals, and adjusting your rocker arms. Hope this gives you some ideas- Chris

I would throw it in the gutter and then go buy another ............my brother

After that, check the cam. Could have a flat spot. Do you have adjustable lifters? Could be them as well.

Cadillakin'98...That's a very interresting aproach!

What is your oil pressure reading?

What is your oil pressure reading?

My oil pressure gauge reads at nothing, it hasnt worked since i bought the truck.

After that, check the cam. Could have a flat spot. Do you have adjustable lifters? Could be them as well.

Cadillakin'98...That's a very interresting aproach!


Is there a way to check to see if is the cam or will it need to be replaced to find out that out.

Be very careful if you want to do this! It is better if you get a friend or your brother to help. Set the park brake, chock the tires, here's were the help comes in. Have someone start the engine, hold the brake and shift to drive. You stand BESIDE the truck at engine. Get your helper to slowly increase throttle***While firm on brakes***as the engine loads up you should hear your "tickin/clankin" sound. If your noise is main or rod bearings you will be able to fill the vibration of the "hammering" by placing your hand on the engine. If the noise is lifters you will fill no vibration. Fixing your oil pressure gauge or installing a manual gauge could help you trouble-shoot the problem, if your oil pressure is extremely low your engine will make lots of noises.

It's much easier to just use an automotive stethescope to listen for any sounds of the motor. They are sold at parts stores or by Sears Craftsman.

what would be the reasoning for my oil pressure gause to not work, is it worth it to replace the oil pump?


This winter i am thinking off tearing out the 305 engine and dropping in a 327 and run custom exhaust. i figure its worth it since the body is in good condition. any suggestions on this project or advice on parts and such.

thanks

add the thickest additive and keep on truckin

Take the wire off the oil pressure sending unit and ground it to the engine. With ignition switch on see if gauge moves to max reading. If so sending unit is faulty. If gauge does not move than gauge, positive feed to gauge or negative feed wire from sender is faulty. If you do decide to check your oil pressure and you do find that it's low, replacing your oil pump would not likely help you much. Heavier oil and/or oil treatment like sinaloa67chevy stated may help you make it to winter. Installing a good engine in your good body truck is deffinitely worth doing. Make sure you don't haul off your old engine or trade it in on a reman untill the job is complete, you never know what goodies you'll need off the old engine when you're doing your change over.

You definitely need to know what your oil pressure is doing. If the pressure is low, the increased loading of heavy throttle could be pounding your oil-starved main bearings to death. Also, could likely be detonation or pre-ignition, as others stated above. And with a heavy oil-burning 305, you will be building up some serious carbon in the combustion chambers, which raises the compression ratio, and therefore requires higher octane than what the engine used to like.
Some good advice in the above posts. What is the timing set at? Even something dumb, like a minor exhaust leak, that gets louder with increased backpressure at high throttle...
If you live in a hot climate, put some cooler AC Delco R43TS plugs in it. I run them year round, in all my Chevy trucks & cars, from stock old 305's, to my 500+ HP big-block drag car. Climate here ranges from 0 to 100 degrees.
I just sold an 86 Monte Carlo SS, with a very smoky 305. It required 91 octane to avoid pre-ignition (pinging at about half-throttle or more). Probably had about 10:1 compression due to carbon buildup. Still had plenty of power. Does yours? Let us know what you find, but I'd say 1st step: Put premium gas in and see if problem goes away shortly thereafter. (Do this with fairly empty tank, since adding half-tank of 91 to half-tank of 87 will give only you a full tank of 89 octane fuel). It may take several miles for the good gas to make it's way to the engine, so don't drive out of the gas staion & hammer it. And if you choose to use octane booster, or any fuel additive, always pour it into a nearly empty tank while at the fuel station, then pump the recommended amount of fuel on top of it. That way it gets mixed properly. Good luck!

i have those spark plugs in and i just put in octance booster. im gunna check out hte oil pressure.

this winter i wanan put in a 327 any ideas on engines like brand and such

or does anyone have any ideas on rebuilding the 305 i have now, like easy hp and torque gains?

In the case of you winter engine project, I'd consider getting a rebuilt 350 instead of the 327. That's what I did for my '90. With the exception of a couple of sensors and the injectors in the TBI (different than the 305), everything swapped over as smooth as silk. I got a 350 Chip for the ECM, but I've heard of some who still run there 305 chip without problems. The rebuild I got was thru a local dealer for Mid-Atlantic and with the core exchange was $1400. They took the 305 for a core with no problems. It was basicly a long block without intake and tin and everything from the 305 swapped over...
Rick