Roller Lifters
geverhart
08-25-2004, 10:37 AM
I have a 1992 Ford Taurus 3.0 Litre that overheated last year and cracked a head. After about six months of sitting, I tore it down and replaced the head. because of the sludge build-up I cleaned the other head and took the lifters out tore them down and cleaned them. When I put it back together the lifters chattered. What is the proper procedure for the Roller Lifters? (Do they need to be submerged/filled with oil prior to installation) also what is the proper procedure for installing the Rocker Arm,Push Rod, Lifter.
Thanks,
Gregg Everhart
Thanks,
Gregg Everhart
sahib
08-26-2004, 07:40 AM
[QUOTE=geverhart] because of the sludge build-up I cleaned the other head ......... What is the proper procedure for the Roller Lifters? (Do they need to be submerged/filled with oil prior to installation) also what is the proper procedure for installing the Rocker Arm,Push Rod, Lifter.
If you went that deep into the engine I presume you had some sort of repair manual for guidance. If not you surely should have. It would instruct you to keep the lifters, push rods, and rockers all in order and to put back in same location. Your heads should be torqued (in 4 steps and in a sequencial pattern) to a final torque of 68 ft lbs and the rockers (in 2 steps) to 20-28 ft lbs. I have had only two engines apart with the roller lifters, a '90 7.3L diesel and a '90 1.9L gasser. Both engines had lifter wear in the rollers, roller had up down play, and replaced all. You normally don't have to disassemble the lifters unless it is sticking. They should self prime when reinstalled. Make sure the fulcroms for the rockers are not worn excessively and that they are assembled as they came out. Dab a little grease on the ends of the push rods for intial turn up. I think on that machine, depending on the mileage, I would have replaced the lifters. Only thing is, they recommend replacing the cam when you replace the lifters. If you had all that sludge build up in the engine I would guess you are using Quaker State or Penzoil. Change brands. I personally use Valvoline but there are others that will work just as well. Any motor I have been into using the brands mentioned have the sludge and gunk you speak of. This is not normal.
If you went that deep into the engine I presume you had some sort of repair manual for guidance. If not you surely should have. It would instruct you to keep the lifters, push rods, and rockers all in order and to put back in same location. Your heads should be torqued (in 4 steps and in a sequencial pattern) to a final torque of 68 ft lbs and the rockers (in 2 steps) to 20-28 ft lbs. I have had only two engines apart with the roller lifters, a '90 7.3L diesel and a '90 1.9L gasser. Both engines had lifter wear in the rollers, roller had up down play, and replaced all. You normally don't have to disassemble the lifters unless it is sticking. They should self prime when reinstalled. Make sure the fulcroms for the rockers are not worn excessively and that they are assembled as they came out. Dab a little grease on the ends of the push rods for intial turn up. I think on that machine, depending on the mileage, I would have replaced the lifters. Only thing is, they recommend replacing the cam when you replace the lifters. If you had all that sludge build up in the engine I would guess you are using Quaker State or Penzoil. Change brands. I personally use Valvoline but there are others that will work just as well. Any motor I have been into using the brands mentioned have the sludge and gunk you speak of. This is not normal.
FlamingTaco
08-28-2004, 04:45 AM
Did they clatter for maybe 30 seconds, or are they continuing to clatter? They will indeed fill up with fluid once the oil pump pushes it up there, but it's best to put a spot of assembly grease at the entry point for the oil flow path and then fill the lifter body 1/2 with oil. This speeds the oil prime and avoids "dead" lifters at startup, which is not terribly good on the valvetrain.
If you continue to hear clattering, it is because you have cleaned up a worn valvetrain, which often reduces oil pressure within the lifters. You can attack this two ways:
1) Switch to 10W40 if you are not already on it. This is a poor work-around, though.
2) Replace your rod bearings. For about $100, new rod bearings will raise your oil pressure, feeding the valvetrain more effectively. This is the proper solution. If your crank bearing surfaces are excessively worn, you might want to pull it, have them reground, and install oversize bearings. Price for a regrind can be $100-200.
What you do should be based upon how attached you are to this car and how long you want it to last ;) Good luck!
If you continue to hear clattering, it is because you have cleaned up a worn valvetrain, which often reduces oil pressure within the lifters. You can attack this two ways:
1) Switch to 10W40 if you are not already on it. This is a poor work-around, though.
2) Replace your rod bearings. For about $100, new rod bearings will raise your oil pressure, feeding the valvetrain more effectively. This is the proper solution. If your crank bearing surfaces are excessively worn, you might want to pull it, have them reground, and install oversize bearings. Price for a regrind can be $100-200.
What you do should be based upon how attached you are to this car and how long you want it to last ;) Good luck!
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