lowering spindels

i am thinking about dropin the front end 2 in. with a pair of lowering spindels. can i just swap them or do other parts need to be changed alond with them i have little to no money to do this with just enough for the spindels :nutkick: so go easy on the goodys thanks everyone.

Shouldn't need anything else except a camber/caster alignment after the drop is complete. Which will run in the hundreds sometimes. You plan on dropping the back as well I hope.

actualy no i did not plan on the back, i feel it will look much more aggresive this way, but i was not sure yet. are there any safty issues i am not awear of yet well sounds like i may have found a deal on leaf springs for the back thou so if i can do you feel i should get them to
how bout some (+) & (-) about just dropin the front
Thanks :nutkick:

ALSO how intensive will all this be, can i do this all myself with a jack and stands or should i go with pro install thanks again

I couldn't agree more with "Extremely Large wheels do not make your ride custom" ............The number of people I see rolling big ass rims thinking that they're the sh!t makes me sick!!!! Get a stereo! Lower It! Bag It! Drop It! Best of all, DRAG IT!!!!! Rims are only PART of customizing!

If you wanna do the back i have some 3 inch lowering blocks for 20 plus shipping. If interested email me at [email protected] they are real easy to install and it dont take much time at all to do it

hey that's cool thanks'

so any one have anything else

ALSO how intensive will all this be, can i do this all myself with a jack and stands or should i go with pro install AND *are there any safty issues i am not awear of yet* well sounds like i may have found a deal on leaf springs for the back thou so if i can do you feel i should get them to
how bout some (+) & (-) about just dropin the front
Thanks

Just lowering the front will affect weight bias and the rear wheels will lock up easier than usual. This can be overcome with an adjustable brake proportioning valve if it becomes a big problem for ya. I would replace the upper and lower ball joints while I did a job like that if I was you. The offset of your wheels may be harder on them and wear them out sooner, but the main thing is that you are there anyway and you might as well get it done now. When ball joints are replaced the front end needs to be aligned, which you need to do anyway with the spindle job. Just do one side at a time. You will probably need a "pickle fork" and a big hammer to break the old spindle loose. This tool is relatively cheap and will get beat up but is necessary for the job. Lowering the rear with blocks is super easy. JUST MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE TORQUE ON THE U-BOLT NUTS AT SUGGESTED INTERVALS LIKE THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY! I had a lowered Isuzu once and it "felt loose" on the highway. It would turn left a little when I hit the gas and turn right when I let off. I pulled over and discovered that I could see air between my axle and the leaf springs! Safety Safety Safety

You will need to get your truck aligned before it will be streetable after doing the spindles. I did my spindles on my own, with a Chilton manual. Basic hand tools are all that is needed, with the exception of the ball joint separater.

After I swaped out to lowering spindels, I adjusted tie rod assembly length by eye so it was safe enough to get directly to alignment shop...but it was still too squirly to drive faster than in-town speeds at that.

See what the local allignment shop will charge to allign the truck and factor that into the cost of the swap before ya start.

Ben

If you drop the front, drop the back the same plus one inch for an even appearance.

After, you will need a standard alignment which is 50-100.

I did this spindle swap on my 1988 S-10 and I agree that the rear should be lowered 3 inches. If superior handling is something you are interested in, you may want to get a set of swaybars from an extreme s-10. Someone on ebay always has a front or rear up for auction. This addition makes you feel like you are driving a sports car. If you decide to get the bars and do them one at a time, make sure you get the front one first. Good luck

if you dont drop the back, all your weight will be in the front and you'll get little grip in the rear. if your to drop the front, drop the back 3 for a level truck, or at least 2 so its up some. but rememeber, weight will be in the front.i was going to do the same thing, i was going to drop a 350 in one and someone told me not to do that b/c of this reason. good luck

for example

If you drop your front 2 inches, you drop your rear three.

The stock suspension is always 1 inch higher in the back.

ok i c,.... but i don't want a level look and at this point i don't think i can drop the back that much because i'v got 265/55/17 on the back with 1.25" spacers, so theres not much room to work with

Trust me, the jacked up rear end on an s-series looks reatarded.

A friend of mine has 295-50-15 tires on the rear with a 5" backspacing on a 10" wide wheel. He was able to drop hisin the rear 3". If your tires are so big that you cannot drop them that much then you are probably running into body interference when you hit a decent bump. If you can hit big bumps in the road and not rub then it should be able to be lowered. If you do get to lower it you will appreciate the improved handling