Marks Power Polishing Methods.

This is a simplified version.
Also patented.
Proper Steps for Power Polish Applications.

Step One : Paint contamination and chemical property Assessment.

After you have thoroughly cleaned the paint (door jams, trunk jams, hood jams and wheel wells) you must look over the finish and investigate it for contamination scratches and chemical reaction damage. Tree sap, tar, rail dust and even old waxes and sealants must be removed to get the job done right.
A) Reclean the vehicle with FUTURE WASH don’t rush this application. Wear chemical resistant gloves and thoroughly cover the entire surface top to bottom. If there’s deep rail dust you may have to go over the vehicle again before neutralizing the FUTURE WASH with a ph balanced soap. Use the soap through the line on the pressure washer to save time and decrease the chance of chemical irritation of the skin or eyes. Once you soaped the vehicle top to bottom with heavy coating of soap, rinse it thoroughly until no soap bubbles are present on the paint.
B) Tree sap removal is a difficult Armstrong process; tree sap is acidic and will affect the adhesion of new waxes and sealants. Use a heavy CLAY BAR (use one designed for light colored vehicles for all applications) the clay bar is used with car soap for lubrication. Rub gently over the paint and feel with a free hand to ensure the sap is all gone. You may have to get a bit more aggressive if the sap is old and stubborn. Simply rinse the soap off when sap is removed with clean cool water.
C) Tar and wax/sealant removal. Using a 901 body solvent or Servisol (name brand I use) is very dangerous if not used properly. Wear gloves goggles and respirator. Spray on the entire paint surface while paint is still wet from previous rinse. Take a soft cotton cloth and wipe the entire surface, the water and solvent turn white when mixed together, work the cotton into the paint and feel and look to see if tar spots are disappearing. When the tar is gone the paint will be smooth and wax is gone the paint will feel spongy and porous and will be slightly duller. How do you know if the wax/sealants are gone (the reaction with the solvent and wax/sealants lifts the wax and turns the body solvent white) the whiter it gets the more has been lifted off the paint, if it looks like skim milk, your good to polish. Rinse with soap and water and dry it off with a chamois.
Chemical damage assesment. Paint can have thousands of chemical reactions, from bug guts melting and warping paint acid rain fallout, sun UV damaged, Industrial Fallout over exposure ect ect …. Also give you a better idea of whether the work is worth doing in 3 steps. All chemical damages require CUT, BUFF, POLISH and SEALANT to best prevent return affects of chemical reactions and also almost totally protect the paint from most of these chemicals altogether best of all, it looks bright and vibrant. Carnauba waxes and glazes work great and are usually user friendly, however they are made of coconut oils and other non synthetic compounds which break down and have to be reapplied. It is crucial to use same brand lines of waxes/compounds for a proper job. If I was polishing lacquer or enamel paints I would consider using carnauba products mostly by hand. If I were polishing Base Coat/Clear Coat I would use a synthetic line of compounds with good sealant.