No start, fuel? electrical?

It cranks fine, but won't roll over... doesn't start. We just replaced the fuel filter, alternator. For some reason, the interior lights don't come on, even with the door open. Same w/ headlights and break lights. The stereo system works fine, though. Any ideas? I've had a few friends look at it and throw in their ideas, but so far it still won't start, and now the electrical problem came in...

check all your fuses... if your lights and shit aren't working, sometimes those systems can be tied into other things.

if you have a blown fuse replace it and keep an eye on it. If it keeps blowing then you have a short somewhere, and sometimes that can be a real bitch to sort out.

Well, that's what doesn't make sense. My friend was checking the fuses first and everything seems to check out. The only thing we can think of is perhaps an improper ground from when we put the alternator in. But that only happened recently. At the moment, my bigger concern is getting it started. Another friend thinks it may be the fuel pupmp, the only problem is, we can't figure out where on the fuel rail to check the pressure, any ideas?

when you goto start your car, before you get to the last igntion spot, there is the key on area were the key sits normally during engine operation...

you can tell if your fuel pump is turning on with this method. Turn the key to the ON position, right when you do this you should be able to HEAR the fuel pump turn on, kinds of a faint whining sound, but if you listen you will hear it.

try poping your clutch.

have some buddies roll your car and try to start it while its moving

jump start it? maybe the battery is shot.

We've tried pop starting and jump starting it, no luck... as I said before, the alternator had died before, so we knew the battery would be dead anyway, so we tried jumping it as well as just charging the battery for a while then trying... still no luck... as for the pump, we're sure it works to some level, but we don't know if its enough pressure, cause the tank has pressure, but obviously the fuel isn't reaching the engine.. :-/ if I could just find the schroeder valve(no idea how that is spelled, heard my friend mention it, for checking fuel pressure) we could see, but, no clue where it is... any ideas?

look if you want to know if fuel is your problem take a can of starting eather and open up your air box and spray it into you Mass Air flow, and have someone try to start the car, if the car kicks over at all then you have found your problem your not getting fuel, then if that is the problem the solution is most likely the fuel pump, also even if a fuel pump isn't delivering enough pressure for the car to run if you leave it it in the second click the "on" position for afew seconds then try to start it should still start if it doesn't then the fuel pump is NOT working at all, also check your ground to your were speaking of. EVERY ground on a stock car is there FOR A REASON, make sure it is good if it isn't you stand a great chance that is your problem, Also most cars can not start w/ out an altinator there, weather it is good or not. Hope this helps you out, I find it very SAD that people are so lazy with their replys on this forum that no one could help you with this info. Also if you need to check your fire then pull a plug hook it to the wire and ground the threaded part of it, you should see a spark jump across, if you don't this is your problem.

Remember, there are two fuse boxes in a 240sx. The main fuses for power distribution is sitting right behind the battery. Check there first. The power is split up into three areas, "battery" "ACC""IGN ON". Sounds like the "battery" circuit is funny. Check your clock. If the battery circuit is disconnected, it wont be on at all. Also, this happened with my nissan. The fuse clip that holds the leg of the fuse was loose, so it wasnt making good contact with the fuse. Check the fuses to see if they are loose.
I am sorry if I cant help much past that though. It is hard to diagnose an electrical problem via internet. If I was there to help, it would take no time to figure the problem. I would take it to a trusted mechanic if you cant find the problem soon.

The lack of fuel is explaned by no power getting to the injectors. They run from the Battery circuit, so there is +12v on them all the time, the computer just grounds each one that needs to fire. Also another thing is, if you arent getting power to your computer, then nothing will happen. Are you getting spark? This is run by the computer also. When you crank it the tach should move a little, if not then the computer isnt sending spark the the ignition modual. Hope this helps.

make sure you fuel line isn't pinched. like the hoses and stuff.

well, the electrical problem has been solved I believe... didn't put it in yet, but turns out a 75A fuseable link blew so we had to get that at the dealership... as for the rest, a friend of mine is a mechanic and is gonna check out the fuel pump or something soon so we'll see bout that situation.. but one other question I forgot to ask is, do you know how to set the timing? It's twin cam, so my friend mentioned how it wont have the marks on the belts. The timing is screwed up ever since my one friend decided to claim it was the distributor causing the problem, heh, wow was he ever wrong... but anyway, I need to fix the timing and my friend's used to working on his POS hyundai, so A) not used to no marks and B) not used to the computers adjusting... anyway, if ya have any ideas, I'd appreciate it, and of course, I thank you for all of your help so far

the distributor changes the timing..if thats what you messed with thats what you need to re adjust.

why would you need to redo the timing chain if you never moved it? or did you ahahaha? if you did, time for a Factory Service Manual or some related book on the KA.

There are ALWAYS marks on the belt that goes to your crank shaft to put a timing light on. Honestly once you get the car running you can ajust the distributor, if you pulled it out completely, look at your crank there is a mark on the gard match this mark w/the second line on your belt this is Top Dead Center, now all you need to do is pull your distributor and it should be marked to show where it needs to be turned to be on #1 piston, if you dn't see the mark the top left plug line the rotor up with it, that is where it should be (or really damn close) then put it back in now start it up and see how it runs if it doesn't run great then try piviting the distributor, you might need to pull the distributor out a hair until you can turn the rotor and change where it is set one tooth at a time . Now if you were stupid and took off the upper timing chain cover and the timing chain, then there are 3 marked links and a mark on each sprocket, match them up and your done, easy enough, oh yeah and the marked links w/ 6 unmarked links is your top.