replace abs sensor?
brin
08-24-2004, 10:21 AM
Has anyone figured out how to replace a wheel sensor (left rear) by itself, to avoid the high cost of changing out the entire hub?
The sensor alone should be dirt cheap versus the $300 + cost for the hub. This really ticks me off. The same is true when a wheel bearing fails. Most bearings are under $30.00 but NO, out with the entire hub.
What an engineering fiasco...........
The sensor alone should be dirt cheap versus the $300 + cost for the hub. This really ticks me off. The same is true when a wheel bearing fails. Most bearings are under $30.00 but NO, out with the entire hub.
What an engineering fiasco...........
RoraStar96
08-24-2004, 11:37 AM
Nope...you need to change the entire hub, its meant to be more "efficient" however the trade of is an expensive hub replacement. I replaced the front driver hub on my car.
Its was...difficult.
Read on
http://aurorah.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&num=1091471732
Have fun! heh
Its was...difficult.
Read on
http://aurorah.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&num=1091471732
Have fun! heh
philipja
08-24-2004, 04:16 PM
Now that you brought up wheel bearings,,, do they tend to go bad on this car? How can you tell if one is going bad?
RoraStar96
08-24-2004, 07:46 PM
I knew mine was bad because I was showing an ABS light. I was also having unrelated TC problems and bought a used ETCBM (electronic traction control/brake module) for $150 bux. While I was at the dealer, they installed the unit and ran a scan for chits and giggles since the ABS light was still on. Apparently I had code T0025-Open or Shorted Front left WSS.
So, I asked how much the sensor was, and I was informed that the bearings and the sensor was housed in one neat lil hub package...$400 bux...heh, right, so I contacted a friend that could get me one for $230 and we did it ourselves, as the pics from the ACNA board shows.
btw all $ figures in CDN.
So, I asked how much the sensor was, and I was informed that the bearings and the sensor was housed in one neat lil hub package...$400 bux...heh, right, so I contacted a friend that could get me one for $230 and we did it ourselves, as the pics from the ACNA board shows.
btw all $ figures in CDN.
mcnu
08-31-2004, 12:23 AM
im having a similar problem. just changed the rear brakes, the left rear slider on the caliper was stuck. we heated it up and was able to free it, and re greased it and finished the job. i thought the abs light would go off, but it didnt. also, the traction light is on, and i cant seem to turn it on or off. when i turn the steering wheel, there is a pulsation, not bad, but i dont like it. any one have any suggestions?? thanks.
RoraStar96
08-31-2004, 08:58 AM
I believe the pulsation in your steering is unrelated. That can be changed and fixed with a universal power steering hose built for for the Aurora to correct the vibration.
As for the ABS/TC. Its best to get a scan first. You will be getting some kinda of error code. The code reader can tell you if its a brake module problem (usually communication problem) or a bad hub. The scan will also determine the location of the bad sensor.
Typically, the instructions I posted in the link above will work (at least on the fronts).
As for the ABS/TC. Its best to get a scan first. You will be getting some kinda of error code. The code reader can tell you if its a brake module problem (usually communication problem) or a bad hub. The scan will also determine the location of the bad sensor.
Typically, the instructions I posted in the link above will work (at least on the fronts).
Spinman
08-31-2004, 08:55 PM
My dealer scanned my car and told me that I had a bad left rear hub (sensor) ($65 diagnosis). After I replaced the hub myself ($160) - it did not solve the problem - so I took it to my local mechanic. He discovered that I had a bad wiring harness leading to the rear left hub ($100).
Still fighting with him to recover the $65 fee for his mis-diagnosis...
Just a thought in your case - check the wiring...
Still fighting with him to recover the $65 fee for his mis-diagnosis...
Just a thought in your case - check the wiring...
brin
09-05-2004, 05:21 PM
Was the harness faulty down by the wheel? Or someplace else?
My problem is the same, diagnosed bad left-rear sensor faulty.
Apparently when it isn't reading correctly on the diagnostic tool, it reports the sensor as the prob.
thanks for the heads up.
My problem is the same, diagnosed bad left-rear sensor faulty.
Apparently when it isn't reading correctly on the diagnostic tool, it reports the sensor as the prob.
thanks for the heads up.
Spinman
09-06-2004, 09:26 AM
On my '96 - the rear sensor harness is a "Y" shaped cable - with one lead to each wheel and one to connect to the harness leading to the front of the car (connector is easy to find by tracing a lead from the wheel) - it is around the rear seat area of the body.
My connector at the harness to harness point had corroded - the wire was hanging loose. I would think someone would be able to repair this type of damage with a soldering iron - I didn't check, but perhaps a new connector is available for purchase.
Sometimes, the connectors at the hub go bad also. Check all (3) connectors for continunity...
My connector at the harness to harness point had corroded - the wire was hanging loose. I would think someone would be able to repair this type of damage with a soldering iron - I didn't check, but perhaps a new connector is available for purchase.
Sometimes, the connectors at the hub go bad also. Check all (3) connectors for continunity...
brin
09-11-2004, 06:42 PM
On my '96 - the rear sensor harness is a "Y" shaped cable - with one lead to each wheel and one to connect to the harness leading to the front of the car (connector is easy to find by tracing a lead from the wheel) - it is around the rear seat area of the body.
My connector at the harness to harness point had corroded - the wire was hanging loose. I would think someone would be able to repair this type of damage with a soldering iron - I didn't check, but perhaps a new connector is available for purchase.
Sometimes, the connectors at the hub go bad also. Check all (3) connectors for continunity...
SPINMAN! Are those connectors under the car, or under the back seat?
My connector at the harness to harness point had corroded - the wire was hanging loose. I would think someone would be able to repair this type of damage with a soldering iron - I didn't check, but perhaps a new connector is available for purchase.
Sometimes, the connectors at the hub go bad also. Check all (3) connectors for continunity...
SPINMAN! Are those connectors under the car, or under the back seat?
Spinman
09-12-2004, 10:10 AM
The harness and connectors are all under the body - exposed to the elements. With the vehicle up on a lift (or ramps) - it should be very easy to see. Just follow a lead from the rear wheel hub to the "Y" connector...
ABS Rear Harness (AC Delco # 275737336)
ABS Rear Harness (AC Delco # 275737336)
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