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Am I dissapointed with a G35?


elkinm
08-20-2004, 09:28 AM
I took in my G20 for 60k maintenance and got a G35 for 2 days.

I was quite happy and quickly went for the gas. I found that when I press on the gas gently and it is at low RPMs, 2-3000 it has absolutely no kick, far less then the underpowered G20. I hit the gas and it hits 6000 rpm instantly and quietly and flies but no power at low rpm.

Sometimes when the gears switched or I hit the gas the engine revs and only then responds as if the engine revs so fast the trany does not have the time to engage. This is an automatic.
I tried manumatic mode and in first gear it is just as slow at low revs, I hit the gas and it revs to 4000+ instantly just like in automatic mode.

The car had only 4000 rpm on it. Maybe it has been tortured as a loaner but is this how a new is supposed to run or should it be fast and torquey at low rpms?

Thanks

EDIT, This is the sedan.

Enemigo
08-21-2004, 04:40 PM
Sedan, thats why.. The Coupe to me is a whole lot better with more torque and HP.. Try out a coupe and your G35 perspective will change.. I love my Coupe! and its had a Tripto-magic tranny as well.

Jose

seusster
09-03-2004, 10:08 AM
The issue is not necessarily that you drove a sedan... it's that you drove an automatic. Get real... drive an MT.

westminster
12-29-2004, 09:35 PM
There is a 'snow' button next to the shifter on the console. If that is depressed, then there will be reduced tq at low rpm's to reduce wheel spin.

Westminster


I took in my G20 for 60k maintenance and got a G35 for 2 days.

I was quite happy and quickly went for the gas. I found that when I press on the gas gently and it is at low RPMs, 2-3000 it has absolutely no kick, far less then the underpowered G20. I hit the gas and it hits 6000 rpm instantly and quietly and flies but no power at low rpm.

Sometimes when the gears switched or I hit the gas the engine revs and only then responds as if the engine revs so fast the trany does not have the time to engage. This is an automatic.
I tried manumatic mode and in first gear it is just as slow at low revs, I hit the gas and it revs to 4000+ instantly just like in automatic mode.

The car had only 4000 rpm on it. Maybe it has been tortured as a loaner but is this how a new is supposed to run or should it be fast and torquey at low rpms?

Thanks

EDIT, This is the sedan.

G35XAndTrailBlazer
12-30-2004, 09:57 AM
Sedan, thats why.. The Coupe to me is a whole lot better with more torque and HP.. Try out a coupe and your G35 perspective will change.. I love my Coupe! and its had a Tripto-magic tranny as well.

Possibly the studidest post i'v ever read. The Coupe has 20 more HP. Big whoop. I bet it doesent have AWD to get you through the snow, and i bet it wount seat 5 comfortably.

Westminister, Thats on G35Xs, i think he may have been driving a regular G35.

I dont know how to really respond to your question. So i'll just do this. ? I think it may just be because its a lonar car. Its wierd, because when we just punch it, it would burn rubber if it dident have AWD. Ask your dealer about it. And I'll watch the RPMs the next time i ride in it.

dholly
12-30-2004, 04:04 PM
Certainly sounds like something was wrong with the loaner. Assuming no dash light or mechanical failures, one contributing cause may be the learning ECU and TCU. Both the electronic engine and transmission control units in the g35 'adapt' to driving style. All other things equal, the performance a g35 driven aggressively by a 20-something, vs. a g35 regularly driven very conservatively by your grandmother, will feel 'stronger' or faster to your butt dyno.

You can manually 'reset' the learning curve of the ECU if you want by following these procedures:


Infiniti G35 ECU Resetting Procedures

NOTE: Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts. Timing is extremely critical. If it is not done within the specified time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stopwatch or an analog clock with a second’s hand is advisable.


Basic ECU Reset (from http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm)

Operation Procedure:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, accurate timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. You may even need someone's help to do this correctly.


Note: The following reset procedures are directly from the 2004 G35 Sedan Service Manual.


Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning

Description:
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.


Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Description:
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (5AT only) **or** Shifter: Neutral w/ Clutch: IN (6MT only)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)
Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)
Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.
- Erroneous idle.

Alternatively, you can disconnect the battery cables for 12 hours but, be advised, you will lose all programmed info such as radio and NAV pre-sets. If you successfully accomplish the ECU reset procedures above and it does not make a noticable improvement in a seemingly sluggish g35, head to the dealer for a diagnostics check.

Good luck!

G35XAndTrailBlazer
12-30-2004, 07:22 PM
Very long post dholly.

But your information is much more descriptive.

I rode in the G35 today. I watched it, and i told my dad to punch it onto the freeway in Tiptronic, and the problem that you were explaining, dident happen. It had tons of power when we held it in First gear. I dunno, maybe theres somthing wrong with your car. Ask the dealer

dholly
12-31-2004, 11:16 AM
G35X - wrong with whose car? What are you talking about? I am replying to the original poster about the experience he had with his g35 loaner. Not you or your dad's car. And my car is just fine, thank you. Lol, yes, I guess that reply was a bit too detailed for you. Enjoy 'your' new g.

G35XAndTrailBlazer
12-31-2004, 11:33 AM
Well, no need to be rude, but you read my overview wrong.

I said i would look at the RPMs and see if my car did what his lonar car did. So you just kinda bashed me because you dident read my posts correctly. No harm done though.

dholly
12-31-2004, 12:03 PM
Please, I have no intention to be rude to you. However, your post was confusing in that you started a post addressing me and said "your car" without indicating you were then addressing anyone else. Had you done that, or said "your loaner" rather than "your car" (it wasn't his car, eh?), it would have been clear. My apologies for not reading between the lines. It's a good idea to start any reply directed to someone specific with their name...kinda like I did to you. Thanks. [smile]

G35XAndTrailBlazer
12-31-2004, 12:59 PM
lol ok partially my fault. I did call it several different things. My apologies to you to.

ok, anyone else care to look at their RPMs?

dholly
12-31-2004, 02:03 PM
I found that when I press on the gas gently and it is at low RPMs, 2-3000 it has absolutely no kick, far less then the underpowered G20.A 3.5L V-6 powered g35 will smoke a 2.0L Inline-4cyl powered g20 throughout the entire hp and tq curve all day long. It sounds like a problem endemic to that particular loaner. If it was simply sluggish, the reset may help. Too hard to determine from the description in the original post, but it sounds as if it was more serious, akin to a torque converter slipping perhaps. I hope he advised the dealer when it was returned.

G35cTurbo
05-10-2005, 11:45 PM
Have the car checked out by a dealer

jimjam25
08-05-2009, 06:42 PM
Dholly...you need "help", really. Even though G35XAndTrailBlazer didn't specify who he was talking to, it was quite obvious. Your response was disturbing, albeit comical.

dholly
08-07-2009, 12:20 AM
Dholly...you need "help", really. Even though G35XAndTrailBlazer didn't specify who he was talking to, it was quite obvious. Your response was disturbing, albeit comical.

Wrong jimbojam. The original poster acknowledged it was less than 100% clear. But thanks for registering on the forum just so you could add your .o2 to a thread that's been dead for almost 4+ years. Things must be pretty slow in your neck of the woods these days!

jimjam25
08-08-2009, 11:58 AM
You are correct. I was originally interested in this topic, which is still current because I own this car and the issue pertains to it, but registered just to respond to your retort to poor G35XAndTrailBlazer (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=264907). It was less than clear, but clear enough to reread and understand his intent without taking it personally.

luluxiu
07-29-2011, 09:48 PM
"Adapt" electronic engine and transmission control unit G35's driving style. All other things being equal, the performance of G35, by a 20-something with a regular driver to actively promote your grandmother is very conservative and G35, will feel "stronger" or faster butt dynamometer...

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