fresh paint
knorwj
08-19-2004, 09:37 PM
sooo I know you're not supposed to wax fresh paint for 30 days or so, but what exactly happens if you do? I'm assuming that there is some extra drying /hardening going on for awhile after the paint is dry to the touch, and the wax would probly seal it up so it can't properly harden but what would it look like? would it look normal and just peel after awhile, or would it get cloudy? so anyway what would happen if you waxed too soon?
CivicSpoon
08-19-2004, 10:06 PM
Could get cloudy, bubble up, or peel if you don't give it time to harden enough. It needs time for the chemicals to mix completely and for the "gases" or "fumes" to escape and if you cover the paint too soon they won't escape and your new paint job (and well spent $) will go to shit. And when you do wax it I've heard that you should use (*bad spelling here*) carnubal (*told ya*) wax or a non-solvant wax.
knorwj
08-19-2004, 10:12 PM
hmm interesting... didn't know about having to use carnauba(sp?) on fresh paint. I wonder if those new "next generation" waxes would work or if you should stick to something like a good old fashioned carnauba cake wax.
eckoman_pdx
08-23-2004, 04:48 AM
You are not supposed to wax fresh paint becuase you need to give it time to dry. Paint dries from the outside inward, not from the inside outward. This means that when it is dry to the touch, the inside still could very well be drying and curing still. Waxing the paint brefore it's fully dried/curedcan create nasty fisheyes, etc...not good at all.
This is because wax, etc, creates a protective barrier. This barrier, is not breathable, so that means the air can't get through and it prevents the paint from drying/curing correctly.
In order to make sure the paint is properly cured before you wax, they recommed you wait 30-60 days usually before waxing. If you wax before the paint is cured, as I said, you will get nasty fisheyes, etc. The paint dries from the outside-in, as I said above. This makes it hard to tell when it's fully cured and dry through and through. This is why you should wait at least 30 days before waxing fresh paint.
PS, I don't think he was saying only was fresh paint with carnuba, he was saying that when you DO wax it eventually, only use wax make with genuine carnuba wax.
Meguires NXT Tech Wax (Next generation, like you refered to) is a syntheic polymer based wax, and it seems to have good results from what I have seen. It seems to last, goes on smooth, wipes easy and it shines nice too. However, it, like any wax, shouldn't be applied to fresh paint. Thats really the only non-carnuba wax I'd recommend, if you are looking to go that route.
Also, if you are looking for something to provide a sheeting type result to help water slide off the paint, etc...a polymer wash should help a bit in the next 30 days, and should be okay to use. Don't wax it for 30 days , however. It's not protective barrier, and isn't supposed to be non-breathable like a wax and the next generations waxs are. It just helps water sheet off, etc, so it helps in that regard. Polymer washs are generally found at places that sell Meguires professional lines, like the industrial auto painting supply stores (the places that sell the paints, primers, spray guns, etc to the body shops).
This is because wax, etc, creates a protective barrier. This barrier, is not breathable, so that means the air can't get through and it prevents the paint from drying/curing correctly.
In order to make sure the paint is properly cured before you wax, they recommed you wait 30-60 days usually before waxing. If you wax before the paint is cured, as I said, you will get nasty fisheyes, etc. The paint dries from the outside-in, as I said above. This makes it hard to tell when it's fully cured and dry through and through. This is why you should wait at least 30 days before waxing fresh paint.
PS, I don't think he was saying only was fresh paint with carnuba, he was saying that when you DO wax it eventually, only use wax make with genuine carnuba wax.
Meguires NXT Tech Wax (Next generation, like you refered to) is a syntheic polymer based wax, and it seems to have good results from what I have seen. It seems to last, goes on smooth, wipes easy and it shines nice too. However, it, like any wax, shouldn't be applied to fresh paint. Thats really the only non-carnuba wax I'd recommend, if you are looking to go that route.
Also, if you are looking for something to provide a sheeting type result to help water slide off the paint, etc...a polymer wash should help a bit in the next 30 days, and should be okay to use. Don't wax it for 30 days , however. It's not protective barrier, and isn't supposed to be non-breathable like a wax and the next generations waxs are. It just helps water sheet off, etc, so it helps in that regard. Polymer washs are generally found at places that sell Meguires professional lines, like the industrial auto painting supply stores (the places that sell the paints, primers, spray guns, etc to the body shops).
cablepower_9
08-30-2004, 04:03 AM
Hi from machinist and bodyman
all waxes and cleaners and protectancts and restorers and shines affect your car's original finish. no matter what they all use the same principle: clean/sand (scuff) then fill/smooth (paint/polish) and buff.
carnuba wax - lower in solvents = doesn't damage paint as bad
wax - higher in solvents = still better than not waxing but not good for scratches
clay bar to remove dirt specks and dust buildup, rub, clean rags, careful attention to detail
all waxes and cleaners and protectancts and restorers and shines affect your car's original finish. no matter what they all use the same principle: clean/sand (scuff) then fill/smooth (paint/polish) and buff.
carnuba wax - lower in solvents = doesn't damage paint as bad
wax - higher in solvents = still better than not waxing but not good for scratches
clay bar to remove dirt specks and dust buildup, rub, clean rags, careful attention to detail
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