stalling 1990 lumina

I amnot sure if this will help anyone but I have a1990 Lumina 3.1. The car kept stalling. We changed all the sensors in the engine. I still had the problem. We put the car on a computer and it showed nothing. The guys left it on and were just shooting the bull. When we got lucky and the check engine lite came on just for a sec. But it was long enough for us to be able to tell us that there was something wrong with the coolant sensor. But it was not the sensor it was the pigtail that attached to it had a broken wire. 16 dollars later the car runs like new. It was telling the computer that it was -39 degrees. We had to get the pigtail from a dealership.

I am not sure if this is my problem but i would like to hear more like at what point was your car stalling?
Mine stalls as i let off the gas and the car starts to coast it seems like its choking itself out done all the tests and nothing...let me know your symptoms and how easy it was to fix...

It was long enough for us to be able to tell us that there was something wrong with the coolant sensor. But it was not the sensor it was the pigtail that attached to it had a broken wire. 16 dollars later the car runs like new.

This is Franklinm3...how hard is it to change the pigtail in the coolant sensor...I think I have the same problem

Hey guys I have a 1990 Chevy Lumina which has run great for the past 10 months up until 2 days ago. If I turn on the AC the car will within 2 minutes stall then when I try to restart it, it will start back up just fine. If I don't use the AC it runs just fine no problems at all any ideas? Any ideas would be appreciated so I don't waste a lot of money diagnosing the problem.

try cleaning your Idle Air Control (IAC) motor. If it has carbon build up, the motor can't allow more air into the motor so it can compensate for the extra load of the air conditioning. The 2.8L and 3.1L v6 motors are also prone to needing intake gaskets, and a new VITON (not rubber) O-ring from the dealer that seals the former distributor shaft hole. That plug has a seal that cracks and leaks oil all down the side of the motor.

I took it to the mechanic today and he replaced the Battery this seems to have elminated the problem. if it pops up again I'll get the Idle Air Controller cleaned. Thanks for the heads up it's a 2.5L engine BTW.

thanks for all the help :D

I forgot that they even put the iron horse in the Luminas.

Well the problem has come back now it will stall regardless of whether or not I have the air conidtioner on. I tried getting new spark plugs but with those in it wouldn't turn over at all Tomorrow I'm going to try getting some silicone Jelly and putting it on there. I put the old plugs back in but it just idles runs rough and then dies. From what I can tell it seems like it's either not getting enough air or gas and then chokes itself out. Any possible ideas on what could be causing the problem?

When I took it too the Mechanic he told me that if it stalls again it could be the ECM or the Torque Converter. Any helps or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance and god bless.

On mine the fix was an Ignition control module and a faulty line from the module to the Crank Position sensor... changing my fuel filter helped too... now mine runs great...

How difficult is it to replace the Fuel Filter on a 1990 Chevy Lumina 2.5L? How much does it cost and where is it located?

Your filter is going to be under the car, probably near the gas tank. It is not hard to change, just two fittings on the lines to loosen, and the clamp that holds it in place. Sometimes the fittings can be quite stubborn, if the filter is old. If you dont have line wrenches or two good vice grips, you might end up mauling them too badly to be reused, so don't get too cowboy with them. Also be aware that the lines are under pressure, and fuel will spray when you first crack 'em , so watch your eyes! Make sure the new one is oriented the same way (they are marked inlet and outlet) and if there is an o-ring on the lines, be sure to put it on before reassembly, otherwise it will leak no matter how tight you get the fittings (fast, too!) I had that motor in a 1991 Olds Calais, and after I sold it, there was a similar stalling problem. The guy would never leave it with me to check it out, and on a trip at high speed on the highway, he blew a hole through a piston. His EGR valve was getting hung open, causing a constant contamination of the combustion with cooler gases, which finally stressed 1 piston beyond it's limits. If the car will run normally as long as you are giving it throttle, this could be the problem. I have had good luck giving EGR's a little whack with a hammer, if the jar causes them to seat, the problem goes away temporarily. Then you know what to replace. Keep us posted, and I'll see what else I can think of. P.S. the torque coverter lockup problem typically causes stalling after driving for some time, then coming to a stop. The motor will die, just as if you were driving a stick, and forgot to push the clutch in. (essentially, that's what's happening) It will restart easily, but be slammed to a halt every time an attempt to put it in gear is made. Once the car sits for some time, the TCC solenoid bleeds off pressure, releasing the lock-up, and everything works normally again, until the next episode. I am almost sure that is not your problem.

Oh, hey I just remembered, the 2.5 were notorious in all models for collapsed/split vacuum hoses to the MAP sensor causing this kind of stuff. The MAP is on the firewall, or on the top of the motor, not sure which on yours. It is a little black box, rectangular and flat, about 3 inches by 1 inch by 1/2 inch thick, should have one 2 or 3 wire plug, and 1 rubber vacuum line going to it. Look at the bend in the line going to it carefully. If it is split, or spongy and easily piched closed, replace it. An incorrect reading due to poor vacuum will drive the ECM nuts.

well I replaced the sparkplugs today put some silicon gel on them which seems to help the engine idle and run better. It still dies, but now when it does it cuts out and doesn't chug. It makes me wonder if the problem is the ECM, because when I took it to the mechanic (around the time I got my battery replaced). When he hooked up his computer the car would sputter and die when he unhooked it. it would Idle just fine and not stall. Also when it stalls could this be related to the Idle Air Controller not giving the engine the proper amount of oxygen? The weird thing is it still starts up just fine. I wonder if the engine is getting flooded at all.

I think I am wasting my time here. Does anyone check what I ask them to?

I always checked and tried your suggestions.... this guy doesnt seem too.....you were quite helpful to me Jeff.....

The fuel filter on the 2.5 hmm isnt that the one that requires a special tool a fuel line seperator?

I will check what you listed and keep you guys informed hopefully replacing the fuel filter will fix it. What is the EGR and where is it located. thanks in advance.

well I replaced the sparkplugs today put some silicon gel on them which seems to help the engine idle and run better. It still dies, but now when it does it cuts out and doesn't chug. It makes me wonder if the problem is the ECM, because when I took it to the mechanic (around the time I got my battery replaced). When he hooked up his computer the car would sputter and die when he unhooked it. it would Idle just fine and not stall. Also when it stalls could this be related to the Idle Air Controller not giving the engine the proper amount of oxygen? The weird thing is it still starts up just fine. I wonder if the engine is getting flooded at all.

Something interesting about this. If what you say is true, that it ran fine while the diagnostic connector was in place, then stalled when it was removed, it would indicate that one of the car's sensor systems was not properly grounded, and was "stealing" a ground from the diagnostic connector, causing it to run correctly. Make sure that any ground wires running directly to the engine are clean and corrosion free, unbroken and what all. Try hooking a jumper cable to the engine itself, and to the negative battery post. That will provide a constant, strong ground to the engine block, and any sensors that recieve a ground from it. If it begins to run differently, there is a problem with the motor to chassis ground straps. They could be torn away or corroded.

The EGR is mounted to the intake manifold, right near the throttle body. It is a round, metal diaphragm with a plunger inside that may be visible through some slots or holes. Give it a tap near where it bolts to the intake with the motor running, and see if anything happens.

I had mistyped one of my previous entries. When the mechanic had the car hooked up to the diagnostic sensor it would sputter out and die. But when it was unhooked it would run just fine. I've noticed in the past few days sometimes it will die when I'm driving the car this is usually 30 mins after I've been driving it around. Other times it dies when I'm at a stoplight. Sorry if I confused you in the past thanks again for your help

Understand, trying to diagnose an ECM feedback controlled systems glitches by mail is like trying to induce cold fusion with a hammer. You just don't have the tools you need to do it. The only reason I bother is 1. Entertainment, and 2. I may hear something I have seen in my experience, and be able to help. But if I can actually solve your problem, it will be by luck, or process of elimination, so we got to keep the facts very straight. Even then, it is kinda a crap-shoot. But it's free, so what the hell, right?

So basically, we need to determine whether it is fuel, or spark, or both, that are absent when it stalls. It is hard to tell when they start right back up right away. It is also possible that it is just too lean (too much air) for a stable idle in some situations.

Tell me again

What year
Which motor
Mileage
Does it idle good cold?

1990, 2.5L V4 , 123,881 miles, Yes it idles well when cold.

1990, 2.5L V4 , 123,881 miles, Yes it idles well when cold.

O.K. reason I asked, on the older feedback control engines like yours, the ECM doesn't do a whole lot of feedback control when the engine is cold, operating instead on a pre-planned cold idle strategy. It still uses sensor information to some degree, but doesn't use O2 sensor readings to modify the fuel mixture until the cat has warmed up signifigantly, and doesn't allow EGR valve operation until then. Also, I was wondering if an air leak causing abnormally lean mixture might be the cause, but that will cause abrupt stalling when the motor is cold, so maybe we can rule that out. Let me think a little, and try to remember what I can about those.....did you check the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor? My memory is still liking that problem for these symptoms on those models. It would get worse as the motor warmed up also. The EGR is still suspect. Has it ever died during acceleration? Or just when you let off the gas? Need to know this.

I have not checked the Vacuum hose leading to the map sensor I will do this today. Yes it has died during acceleration. When I took it out for a drive yesterday on the way home the engine stalled and died on me as I let off the gas. I had to pull over for about 10 mins to let it cool down then it started right back up . Drove it for about another 1mile when it died again pulled into a parking lot let it cool down then I drove it home. I really appreciate your help thanks in advance.

I checked the vacuum hose leading to the map sensor it's in good condition no cracks or anything.

I'm thinking the ignition module is bad here. If I remember right, it is on the back side of the motor, and is somewhat of a pain in the ass to replace. At least for me, I've got fat arms and hands. It is back there where all the plug wires terminate. The EGR could cause the stall when you lift off the gas, but usually won't kill it while under power. I don't think that's it. It was not uncommon for those ignition modules to work until warm, then start to radomly die once warm. There is micro circuits inside it that break connection at a certain temperature when the unit goes bad.

I had a 1990 Lumina with the 2.5 in it, and it was the worst piece of crap they ever put in a car. I, myself. would lean towards an ignition issue. I would buy a spark tester, one like this one http://www.costplustools.com/store/products/Diagnostics--Testing/Engine--Exhaust/Ignition-Testers/CTME66331-Calterm-Ignition-Firing-Indicator_41556.html , and drive the car till it stalls, pull over, and plug in this tester, and crank the engine, all before the car has had a chance to "cool down". If there is no spark, try the coil, or ignition module. Good luck, keep us informed.

I had a mechanic friend of mine who is an associate where I work look at my car. We pulled the cover off of the fuel pump and tried to start it not a single drop of fuel came out. So the Fuel pump is bad so now I know what to replace I just have to save up the money for it. Thanks for all the assistance you've offered I learned a lot and I greatly appreciate it. I'll be sure to let you guys know how it goes.
P.S. We Also tested the sparkplugs and when I tried to start it we got spark just no fuel from the Fuel Pump.

Also yesterday after sitting for 4 hours it would not turn over. the radiator fan would also click on and off like it wanted to engage. Anyways I'll replace the fuel pump in the future. If you guys can think of anything else let me know and I appreciate all your advice. Thx :smile:

Well I had the fuel pump checked and it turned out fine. I had my friend check it out. He had me hold the gas down while starting it and it would turn over and die. Any ideas?

I would imagine it's either not getting enough air or fuel.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I also found out how to get the error codes from my Lumina by cycling the ingition 6 times.Does anybody where I can find the manual that would have the error codes for the 1990 Lumina 4cyl.

A Haynes/Chilton type manual at pepboys/advance will tell you the basic ODB I codes and how to read them.

Hey guys I'm borrowing a friends Chilton Manual for my 1990 Chevy Lumina 2.5L and I was wondering is their any easy way of telling if my ICM is bad? Also once I get the codes I'll make sure to post them so that if anyone has a similiar problem to mine in the future my information will be of some help.

I was wondering is their any easy way of telling if my ICM is bad Take it off and have it tested at Autozone. (They do it for free,)

It does have a quick-connect fitting, and you can buy the tool somewhat cheap. You can do it without the special tool, but it requires some dinking around. the tool is cheap so I'd just go buy it. Also, to prevent spraying when you disconnect the filter, first pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine over until it won't fire. Since the fuel pump isn't getting any power, the fuel pressure will diminish. You can also do this by unhooking the wires that are connected to the pump, but It's a lot easier to pull the relay.

"The 2.8L and 3.1L v6 motors ....... and a new VITON (not rubber) O-ring from the dealer that seals the former distributor shaft hole. That plug has a seal that cracks and leaks oil all down the side of the motor."


when you go to the trouble of replacing the "o" ring spend another $.98 and put a distributer gasket on the "oil pump drive shaft"