Dollar Bill Test - it sucks!

I have a 00 Mercury Villager (v6) 70,000 miles. It's missing a little, just a slight backfire and a litte sputtering when idling (no Check Engine light). It's definately not right, but overall it's running OK (good power, doesn't die, etc).

I've cleaned the throttle body, new cap, wires, plugs, rotor. No help.

I was told to try the "Dollar Bill" test. Simply hold a dollar bill over the exhaust pipe and see if it gets sucked in. No way right, but it really did!! Every few seconds instead of blowing out the dollar was sucked in! I've tried this on other vehicles and it doesn't happen on them.

The person that told me of this test, said it indicates a distributor or valve problem.

What do you all think? Could a clogged fuel injector cause these symptons (sucking the dollar in too)? Any other ideas?

Thanks, I really appreciate your help!

This is the first time I have heard of this test. I am skeptical that this actually could happen, but I will take your word for it.
The only thing that would cause that much suction would be an exhaust valve (possibly more than one) being stuck open on the intake stroke of the piston. A stuck valve would also cause the performance problems you describe.

Indeed, that truly does suck...
Interesting test, and I'll have to agree with the diagnosis...
Hope everything works out for you!

Thanks for the input. Is there anyway to unstick a valve, or is this going to be some major mechanical repair?

Could I do damage to the motor by continuing to drive it like this?

Also, is there anything else that could cause this exhaust type of problem? EGR valve?

Thanks again

Thanks for the input. Is there anyway to unstick a valve, or is this going to be some major mechanical repair?

Could I do damage to the motor by continuing to drive it like this?

Also, is there anything else that could cause this exhaust type of problem? EGR valve?

Thanks again
There is a chance that some oil additive designed to free up sticky lifters might help.
However, more likely the exhaust valves are now 'burned' that is the sealing portion of the valve itself, (the part that contacts the valve seat) has been overheated and distorted, so it no longer seals properly.
In this case, a 'valve job' is required, where the cylinder heads are removed and rebuilt.
If my diagnosis is correct, the damage has been done and the repair is the same whethe its done now or later.
I have driven cars many thousands of miles with a burned exhaust valve or two, with no harm. However, if the valve is badly distorted, it might break, allowing a loose piece to drop into the cylinder and cause a total engine failure.

Total engine failure.. You mean it could turn into a Powerstroke?