Tamiya spray clear over SMS CF decals???

Has anyone done this? Are there any compatibatility problems?

I've sprayed Testors Dullcote in the rattle can over SMS upholstery decals without any problems. I covered a Perry's Resin Cuda AAR hood with SMS CF decals and I would like to clearcoat it.
http://images6.fotki.com/v100/photos/2/224343/1104979/DSC00047-vi.jpg?1092609073

Thanks!!!
Marc

It works, but you have to spray it carefully. A couple mist coats before you do any heavy wet coats, just as you would do color on the body.

Nice work with the decal, by the way.

wow this hood is very nice :D

That hood is sweet, but in my own experience with Ts-13 clear I would not chance it over any decals ever again. I have ruined two models that were some of my best work, but when cleared over the decals they simply melted and smeared into different colors. Personally I wouldn't risk it plus that hood of your look fantastic! :nono:

you should try X-22 if you have an airbrush, it's the safiest way to do that

:iagree:

Yeah, I hafta agree. X22 airbrushed on would be safe, but I wouldn't say clear laquer would be worth the risk. I've had it go badly too many times.

you should try X-22 if you have an airbrush, it's the safiest way to do that
That's probably what I'll use, but I've never airbrushed Tamiya acrylics. What is the proper thinning ratio for Tamiya acrylics to airbrush?

Thanks! Marc

I've never had much luck with thinning by ratio. I start with about 2:1, test spray it, and adjust from there. The amount of thinner necissary will vary with the weather (relative humidity, ambient pressure, etc), so no one ratio will always work. Mix, test, adjust as necissary.

And don't ever spray without testing first!

I've never had much luck with thinning by ratio. I start with about 2:1, test spray it, and adjust from there. The amount of thinner necissary will vary with the weather (relative humidity, ambient pressure, etc), so no one ratio will always work. Mix, test, adjust as necissary.

And don't ever spray without testing first!

Thanks!!! I know all about the testing part...been there done that. Just no experience with airbrushing acrylics.

Marc

I set up a scrap body that I had painted with Tamiya rattle can paint with some strips of SMS CF decal to test for clear paint. All decal pieces were installed with Micro Sol just like I used on the hood. I was going to test Tamiya TS-13, Testors Gloss Lacquer spray, HOK thinned with Gunze thinner, and urethane clear. Here is my first test from tonight with TS-13.
http://images6.fotki.com/v99/photos/2/224343/1104979/DSC00049-vi.jpg?1092710157
I sprayed one light coat of TS-13, held it under a 100 watt light bulb for a minute or so, then began to spray wet coats, 4 or 5 in total. Held it under the light for a minute or so between coats. Pretty severe treatment for decals.

No problems with the SMS decal, but not a ringing endorsement for TS-13 over decals. I've had problems with TS-13 over other decals. When in doubt, test, test, test.

Marc

So, are you saying that it came out OK with TS-13 over it ? Cause if it did maybe I am doing something wrong when I try to clear cause everytime it eats the decals up.

So, are you saying that it came out OK with TS-13 over it ? Cause if it did maybe I am doing something wrong when I try to clear cause everytime it eats the decals up.

It came out OK over the Scale Motorsport CF decals. I can't guarantee it over any kit decals or other aftermarket decals without testing it first.

Marc

Reason I am so anxious over whether it worked for you is because I am currently working on the Ford Capri (Tamiya)http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/57665tam24274box.jpg with the studio 27 PE http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/57665s27fp2479box.jpg So I want to clear over the decals and everthing once I am finished, but I am scared to ruin the model like I have done so many other. I think I will just stick to clearing first then decaling. Congratulations on your test and good luck on the one that counts. :iceslolan

sadly, I had good result with Testor clear over decal
I did it on my Nissan R390. The clear is yellowing, but this car is black and red, so overal it didn't show. But I wouldn't use that anymore

How do you do a mist coat? Do you just let it kind of fall on the body?

How do you do a mist coat? Do you just let it kind of fall on the body?

Just a light coat that bearly covers the surface. Do one or two and let dry pretty well before laying down heavier coats. If you take your time and build up some light coats of clear and let them dry, sometimes the solvents from the heavier wetter coats will not attack the decals.

I can't stress enough, test on scraps before you attempt the real thing.

Marc

i have try spray my cf bonnet with tamiya clear spray. and it turned out great. no hicups. i only gave 2 or 3 mist (light) coat tho. i want a bit of flat results over it, not too glossy. but yea, do couple of mist sprays, with drying period in between, then a few wet coats for finalising, also with longer drying period between coats. it should be ok. next time i will do glossy cf effect. bot not now....

Future is also good for using over CF decals

I've always used Tamiya TS-13 over SMS and also kit decals with no drama. You can run into problems if you don't let the decals dry for a few days before spraying them.

I've used MM metalizer sealer (...and some of you might have heard it before!?) and it's a very good clear coat. dries fast and polishes well after 3-4 weeks drying time. My Calibra (http://niclasproos.fotopic.net/p3013567.html) and my Porsche (http://niclasproos.fotopic.net/p3621185.html) both got this treatment over the decals. They have been sitting on the shelf for a couple of years now without any yellowing or other strange reactions. Pitty to ruin such a good looking piece with a bad reaction from clear coating, took some time to get that CF'd I imagine!?

Niclas

Matthew suggests Micro-Kleer over his decals, but Future (acrylic, self leveling clear) has always worked very nicely for me. A tough shine that doesn't need polishing, doesn't yellow and can be airbrushed or handbrushed on.

You could also use a 2-pack Auto enamel (I use the Nason brand)...You run the risk of destroying decals with ANY lacquer paint.

Bill