98 wont start after fuel pump install
Yow_wee
08-14-2004, 07:31 PM
I recently purchased a 98 Cherokee with a 4.0L.
For the first week I had it, It took a couple or more cranks to start it when ever I started it which is a sign of pump failure or low fuel pressure.
A couple days ago It took a few tries and finally started. died then started again. The Check Engine light came on but I continued to drive it for a couple miles and then it had that "running out of gas" symptoms and finally died.
I got it home and knew I wasnt getting gas.
I bought a new fuel pump and strainer.
I tested the old pump in a bucket of water. It pumped a decent amount until I put the OLD strainer on the bottom. And then nothing. This is how dirty the strainer was. I replaced the pump anyway. Before starting I unhooked battery to erase codes.
After installing the new pump it started right up. It ran much better too. And no Check engine light.
I got to the top of the street and it died.
After i got it home I noticed it wouldnt hold fuel pressure but the pump would come on for that second after turning the key on.
I took tank back out and made sure I reinstalled everything correctly.
On a 98 the fuel filter/pressure regulator is on top of the tank and just pushes into place. This also acts as a fuel return. On a 98 there is no return line.
So after putting tank back I can get pressure now but still wont start.
I checked the coil wire for spark and that seemed fine.
Pump comes on and does pressurize the lines.
When I would release the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail gas would just drip out even after new pump install. After I took out new pump and put back in it has pressure and holds it.
I tested the hot wire to the pump when key was being turned (engine rotating) and it was getting power and running..
Is there anything I am missing?
I am new to the JEEP THING. 2 weeks new and I am not happy.
Maybe the injectors arent getting a signal?
================================================== ====
UPDATE!!!!!!!!
I went back out to mess with Jeep some more.
After tightening up the tank straps and filler hoses it finally started. It chugged a bit first but then finally ran. There is no bad idle but there is crappy throttle response right when I hit it (not real bad) but then its ok. I havent road tested it. The check engine light came back on and I dont think its holding pressure again.
Seems like it stopped holding pressure EITHER after it started OR after I tightened up the tank straps and fill tubes. I felt around as much as I could on top of tank for any thing that might be pushing on top of the fuel tank but felt nothing.
Thought some one might have input before I go get a scan tool. 1998 cant be grounded for code pulling. Owell.
I will probably get a pressure tester to see how new pump is doing.
For the first week I had it, It took a couple or more cranks to start it when ever I started it which is a sign of pump failure or low fuel pressure.
A couple days ago It took a few tries and finally started. died then started again. The Check Engine light came on but I continued to drive it for a couple miles and then it had that "running out of gas" symptoms and finally died.
I got it home and knew I wasnt getting gas.
I bought a new fuel pump and strainer.
I tested the old pump in a bucket of water. It pumped a decent amount until I put the OLD strainer on the bottom. And then nothing. This is how dirty the strainer was. I replaced the pump anyway. Before starting I unhooked battery to erase codes.
After installing the new pump it started right up. It ran much better too. And no Check engine light.
I got to the top of the street and it died.
After i got it home I noticed it wouldnt hold fuel pressure but the pump would come on for that second after turning the key on.
I took tank back out and made sure I reinstalled everything correctly.
On a 98 the fuel filter/pressure regulator is on top of the tank and just pushes into place. This also acts as a fuel return. On a 98 there is no return line.
So after putting tank back I can get pressure now but still wont start.
I checked the coil wire for spark and that seemed fine.
Pump comes on and does pressurize the lines.
When I would release the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail gas would just drip out even after new pump install. After I took out new pump and put back in it has pressure and holds it.
I tested the hot wire to the pump when key was being turned (engine rotating) and it was getting power and running..
Is there anything I am missing?
I am new to the JEEP THING. 2 weeks new and I am not happy.
Maybe the injectors arent getting a signal?
================================================== ====
UPDATE!!!!!!!!
I went back out to mess with Jeep some more.
After tightening up the tank straps and filler hoses it finally started. It chugged a bit first but then finally ran. There is no bad idle but there is crappy throttle response right when I hit it (not real bad) but then its ok. I havent road tested it. The check engine light came back on and I dont think its holding pressure again.
Seems like it stopped holding pressure EITHER after it started OR after I tightened up the tank straps and fill tubes. I felt around as much as I could on top of tank for any thing that might be pushing on top of the fuel tank but felt nothing.
Thought some one might have input before I go get a scan tool. 1998 cant be grounded for code pulling. Owell.
I will probably get a pressure tester to see how new pump is doing.
Cam7
08-15-2004, 12:56 AM
I recently purchased a 98 Cherokee with a 4.0L.
For the first week I had it, It took a couple or more cranks to start it when ever I started it which is a sign of pump failure or low fuel pressure.
A couple days ago It took a few tries and finally started. died then started again. The Check Engine light came on but I continued to drive it for a couple miles and then it had that "running out of gas" symptoms and finally died.
I got it home and knew I wasnt getting gas.
I bought a new fuel pump and strainer.
I tested the old pump in a bucket of water. It pumped a decent amount until I put the OLD strainer on the bottom. And then nothing. This is how dirty the strainer was. I replaced the pump anyway. Before starting I unhooked battery to erase codes.
After installing the new pump it started right up. It ran much better too. And no Check engine light.
I got to the top of the street and it died.
After i got it home I noticed it wouldnt hold fuel pressure but the pump would come on for that second after turning the key on.
I took tank back out and made sure I reinstalled everything correctly.
On a 98 the fuel filter/pressure regulator is on top of the tank and just pushes into place. This also acts as a fuel return. On a 98 there is no return line.
So after putting tank back I can get pressure now but still wont start.
I checked the coil wire for spark and that seemed fine.
Pump comes on and does pressurize the lines.
When I would release the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail gas would just drip out even after new pump install. After I took out new pump and put back in it has pressure and holds it.
I tested the hot wire to the pump when key was being turned (engine rotating) and it was getting power and running..
Is there anything I am missing?
I am new to the JEEP THING. 2 weeks new and I am not happy.
Maybe the injectors arent getting a signal?
================================================== ====
UPDATE!!!!!!!!
I went back out to mess with Jeep some more.
After tightening up the tank straps and filler hoses it finally started. It chugged a bit first but then finally ran. There is no bad idle but there is crappy throttle response right when I hit it (not real bad) but then its ok. I havent road tested it. The check engine light came back on and I dont think its holding pressure again.
Seems like it stopped holding pressure EITHER after it started OR after I tightened up the tank straps and fill tubes. I felt around as much as I could on top of tank for any thing that might be pushing on top of the fuel tank but felt nothing.
Thought some one might have input before I go get a scan tool. 1998 cant be grounded for code pulling. Owell.
I will probably get a pressure tester to see how new pump is doing.
You need to pull the codes. How did you know it had pressure without a guage.Should be around 40 lbs.Also check fuel filter. Have to know pressure and Codes. Check for shorts around pump harness.
For the first week I had it, It took a couple or more cranks to start it when ever I started it which is a sign of pump failure or low fuel pressure.
A couple days ago It took a few tries and finally started. died then started again. The Check Engine light came on but I continued to drive it for a couple miles and then it had that "running out of gas" symptoms and finally died.
I got it home and knew I wasnt getting gas.
I bought a new fuel pump and strainer.
I tested the old pump in a bucket of water. It pumped a decent amount until I put the OLD strainer on the bottom. And then nothing. This is how dirty the strainer was. I replaced the pump anyway. Before starting I unhooked battery to erase codes.
After installing the new pump it started right up. It ran much better too. And no Check engine light.
I got to the top of the street and it died.
After i got it home I noticed it wouldnt hold fuel pressure but the pump would come on for that second after turning the key on.
I took tank back out and made sure I reinstalled everything correctly.
On a 98 the fuel filter/pressure regulator is on top of the tank and just pushes into place. This also acts as a fuel return. On a 98 there is no return line.
So after putting tank back I can get pressure now but still wont start.
I checked the coil wire for spark and that seemed fine.
Pump comes on and does pressurize the lines.
When I would release the fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail gas would just drip out even after new pump install. After I took out new pump and put back in it has pressure and holds it.
I tested the hot wire to the pump when key was being turned (engine rotating) and it was getting power and running..
Is there anything I am missing?
I am new to the JEEP THING. 2 weeks new and I am not happy.
Maybe the injectors arent getting a signal?
================================================== ====
UPDATE!!!!!!!!
I went back out to mess with Jeep some more.
After tightening up the tank straps and filler hoses it finally started. It chugged a bit first but then finally ran. There is no bad idle but there is crappy throttle response right when I hit it (not real bad) but then its ok. I havent road tested it. The check engine light came back on and I dont think its holding pressure again.
Seems like it stopped holding pressure EITHER after it started OR after I tightened up the tank straps and fill tubes. I felt around as much as I could on top of tank for any thing that might be pushing on top of the fuel tank but felt nothing.
Thought some one might have input before I go get a scan tool. 1998 cant be grounded for code pulling. Owell.
I will probably get a pressure tester to see how new pump is doing.
You need to pull the codes. How did you know it had pressure without a guage.Should be around 40 lbs.Also check fuel filter. Have to know pressure and Codes. Check for shorts around pump harness.
Yow_wee
08-15-2004, 09:37 AM
Yeah pressure should be 39psi. But I am not sure about a 98. Its a bit different.
That was the purpose of the post to get opinions BEFORE I get the scanner to read the codes.
The test port will let you know if there is pressure.
That was the purpose of the post to get opinions BEFORE I get the scanner to read the codes.
The test port will let you know if there is pressure.
glennco1
08-17-2004, 08:33 PM
Well, I had to replace the pump on my '98 and I have a quick story for you there. The pump and the pump and the pressure regulator/filter are separate units. If you bought the pump without the other you are asking for trouble. The pressure regulator is a check valve that lets the fuel spill back into the tank when the pressure exceeds around 50 psi.
As I understand it, the fuel pressure on the '98 should be 49.2 +- 5 psi at idle, when testing at the test port.
Note that the '98 is different than most years of this vehicle.
I talked to a NAPA shop about this issue, and they said they never use anything but the factory fuel pumps, they are just better built, and the factory fuel module contains all the parts needed to get it back to spec.
Hope this helps
As I understand it, the fuel pressure on the '98 should be 49.2 +- 5 psi at idle, when testing at the test port.
Note that the '98 is different than most years of this vehicle.
I talked to a NAPA shop about this issue, and they said they never use anything but the factory fuel pumps, they are just better built, and the factory fuel module contains all the parts needed to get it back to spec.
Hope this helps
Yow_wee
08-17-2004, 09:00 PM
Yes I know the filter sits right on top of the tank. I got mine from Napa and it looked nothing like OEM. And they didnt have any other parts such as filter/regulator. I asked for it but they said its unavailable.
I seen a whole new unit from filter down to pump and even sending unit on ebay BRAND new factory part for $119. But it was after I bought my pump.
I am sure when my scanner gets here it will tell me something about the fuel pressure.
I seen a whole new unit from filter down to pump and even sending unit on ebay BRAND new factory part for $119. But it was after I bought my pump.
I am sure when my scanner gets here it will tell me something about the fuel pressure.
glennco1
08-17-2004, 09:31 PM
So did you detach the factory regulator/filter and attach it to the new pump? The method they speak of at alldata has nothing to do with a scanner, they just talk about hooking up a pressure guage to the test valve.
Yow_wee
08-17-2004, 11:03 PM
So did you detach the factory regulator/filter and attach it to the new pump? The method they speak of at alldata has nothing to do with a scanner, they just talk about hooking up a pressure guage to the test valve.
Filter dont attatch to the pump.
It sits ontop of the tank and basically snaps into a plastic surround with a plastic tube down into an attatched aluminum tube which is attatched to the top of the pump.
I know all about the testing guage. My comment about the scanner was to see why the check engine light comes on which I bet has something to do with a fuel problem.
Filter dont attatch to the pump.
It sits ontop of the tank and basically snaps into a plastic surround with a plastic tube down into an attatched aluminum tube which is attatched to the top of the pump.
I know all about the testing guage. My comment about the scanner was to see why the check engine light comes on which I bet has something to do with a fuel problem.
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