2000 Suburban Stalls and Hesitates on acceleration

I have 2000 Suburban that idles at about 500 and every 20-30 seconds it will drop down to 250, idle rough for about 2 seconds, and jump back up to a smooth idle at 500. It also stalls as soon as I put in reverse or drive and turn sharp (as if to pull out of my driveway). It doesn't stall at higher speeds. Mostly when stopping or starting at an intersection. I don't notice any voltage fluctuations as I've read in some of the previous threads in this forum. When I step on the gas, there's a slight delay and then it jumps, unless I accelerate very gently. I've read many of the threads in this forum related to this, but they all seem to have some variant symptom that's slightly different than mine. What I've got so far from them is:

1. Clean the throttle body (throttle bore).
2. Replace fuel pressure regulator.
3. Replace fuel pump.
4. Check for vacuum leak.

With the symptoms I've given, would anyone have another recommendation or should one of these work?

Matt

Is the service engine soon light on? The PCM will have a fault code stored if the light is on.

No, there's no service engine light. In fact, I had the transmission rebuild a month ago and when I took it back to the shop so they could inspect my installation, they put a scope on it and check for any codes and it came up clean.

With no service engine light, the problem must be with something not monitored by the PCM. I would kinda think maybe a vaccum leak, or fuel pressure. The EGR can cause idle and drivability problems, but I would think you would get a check engine light.

I'm going to try cleaning the throttle body first and then see if I can get some way to diagnose if there's a problem with my fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. The fuel pump is whining but I heard that was normal.

First thing is to clean the throttle body.
There are a couple service bulletins on this complaint depending on if you have cable or electric throttle control.
There is a calibration update for this concern also.

I have experienced this problem before with a sticking EGR valve. Isolate the vacuum line from the EGR valve and see if the problem stops while the isolation is in place. If so replace the valve or he solenoid if htat is causing the problem.