My first Log!!!!

I received my pocketlogger program and cable yesterday and created the following logs. I would like to know what you guys think. Here is my mod list : T25 @15psi, 1g BOV, JoeP MBC, Injen Intake, Extreme Downpipe w/Hi-Flow Cat, Brode UICP, Magnecore Wires (I doubt this changes anything). I am considering geting a SAFC-II but I'm not sure if it is worth it?? Should I save my money for something else?? Just remember that I'm the guy that doesn't want to upgrade the catback. Thanks.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/155962Spyderturbo007_Run_1_21.JPG


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/155962Spyderturbo_Run_1.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/155962Spyderturbo_Run_2.jpg

I don't think the S-AFC will benefit you that much, even if you knew how to tune it very well on a T25. If you plan on getting a bigger turbo, buy the S-AFC then.

For the logs, I'm not one of our members that can read these to the tee, but were you misfiring any, especially right when you stepped on it?

is their a log for the degree of knock?

2g's don't have knock sensors, remember? DSMlink can do it... pocketlogger cannot. I don't remember if I heard Kevin say that 1 count of knock is 1 degree of timing retard, or if I just made that up. If not, it's directly related anyway.

I don't think the S-AFC will benefit you that much, even if you knew how to tune it very well on a T25. If you plan on getting a bigger turbo, buy the S-AFC then.

For the logs, I'm not one of our members that can read these to the tee, but were you misfiring any, especially right when you stepped on it?

Not that I noticed. What would make you ask that???

the timing goes down before you get to full boost

the timing goes down before you get to full boost

I thought that was normal? As long as timing continues to increase throughout the gear?

Below is another run, I lowered the number of parameters trying to get more samples per second. I also logged O2 voltage as some suggested. I notice that my O2 voltage, for the most part, is between .90 & .92. Isn't this considered lean? Also I noticed that the timing is being pulled in the upper rpm range in 3rd gear. If I remember correctly GSXRacer has said this is because the ECU has heard knock. Should I get the AFC and try to add fuel to bring the O2 voltage up and reduce knock in the upper rpm 3rd gear range. Or would the AFC be useless?? Thanks!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/155962untitled1.JPG

A real good indicator of what tuning would need to be done has to include more RPM points.

Put it in 2nd (or third) and cruise about 2500rpm, then get into the throttle and log to the 6k+ range.

No need for multiple gears, really. You want a gear that sees a good bit of load, hence nobody logging in 1st.

I have the log from 2500 to about 7300 rpm's. I will hotsync later and post it. But another question while I have time here at work to do nothing :) . I read one of Kevin's posts saying that when the ECU sees intake temps above 85 degrees that it will retard the time by one or more degrees. I was cruising around yesterday and my intake temps were fluctuating between 89 & 91 degrees. I was on the expressway doing about 70 during that time. Is this normal?? Also Kevin had indicated that at coolant temps above 206 degrees you loose another degree of timing. Mine were fluctuating between 203 & 206 is this normal?? I will post the log later.

what was the ambient air temp? nobody can say if it's normal or not, because at 100 degree california weather, you might never get under 85 degrees on a stock SMIC. Most likely IS normal because you aren't running too radical of a setup. Probably not too high boost on a stock turbo which might cause it, and stock SMIC can't be helped.

I think coolant temp should stay below the ECU warning level though, maybe try some water wetter in there to get the heat out better.

Here is the 3rd gear pull that Lando suggested. Is the "water wetter" available at places such as Autozone? By the way, it was about 75 outside.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/1559623rd_Gear_Pull.JPG


I see that my timing is getting pulled all over the place. :disappoin What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and order the S-AFC II??? :dunno: I also see that my o2 voltage seems to be dropping (leaning out?). Is this a fuel delivery problem or is the ECU not taking care of the adjustments. Any help would be appreciated. I am basically just looking for weather or not it is worth it for me to get the AFC? If I do get it I will definitely have tuning questions later :)

Can anyone help me?? :confused: :)

5392 and 6892 are the only timing pulls. Other than that, it seems like you have a good thing going.

So when I get my S-AFC II I should add a little fuel in those areas? What about the O2 voltage, isn't that a little lean. Or doesn't it matter because I'm not getting the timing pulled?

O2 volatge is useless, and the areas where timing IS being pulled would be difficult to pinpoint, even with 12 NE points. (is that how many the SAFCII has??)

AFC has 8 points. I used 1k through 8k, some poeple stop at 7 and double up when full boost hits to get some more resolution there (i.e. 1k, 2k, 3, 3.5k, 4k, 5k, 6k, 7k)

3rd gear is the best to take logs in, unless you are FWD (the taller gearing can put you at some pretty high speeds, AWD will have you at less than 100 mph, I stop around 90).

The little blips there where timing is pulled is nothing to worry about. You really cant see airflow per rev without DSMlink, so you dont know if its simply because airflow is changing and that is affecting timing.

Intake temps over 84 degrees do pull one degree. Remember that intake temps are measured at the MAS, before any turbo or intercooler BS. This is why I used to pull my passenger side headlight at the track. Anything over 75 degree day and I had trouble keeping intake temps below that 84 degrees. Same for coolant, and what you mention for temps is normal. With the MAFt, intake temp has to be locked, and they wisely chose 80 degrees ;)

The AFC probably wont help a ton on pump gas, since you need to run pretty rich on the t25. There is a reason that stock programming goes for 9:5:1 on the 2.1 g/rev and up maps. However, if you decide to run race gas the AFC will allow you to lean out and make some more power. When I went to race gas on the t25 I dropped from 14.2s to 13.7s. Just by changing the fuel. So I must have been knocking, even though I was getting nearly 20 degrees of timing advance. WIth the race gas I believe it was indeed more like 23-24 degrees. Remember, the lower the airflow, the higher the timing the ECU will allow. Had I been able to lean out, I have no doubt I couldve got into the low 13s.

Fuel tuning is critical. IF one really plans to max out a give setup, or have control over a larger setup, you need fuel tuning. If you think there is any chance that an AFC or similar will be required in the future, might as well just get it now ;)

And good luck with the logger, very wise purchase. You will learn more from a couple weeks of logging than you could learn from the forums in many long months. Enjoy :)

AFC has 8 points. I used 1k through 8k, some poeple stop at 7 and double up when full boost hits to get some more resolution there (i.e. 1k, 2k, 3, 3.5k, 4k, 5k, 6k, 7k)


I was referring to the newest release. I believe it has 12 adjustment points. Other than that, perfect post as always.

Thats a good point. I sold my AFC long before the SAFC2 came out, and I know nothing about it. :)

I ordered the S-AFC from DSMParts.com on Friday and it should be here in the next couple of days!! So from what you guys are saying there isn't anything for me to adjust until I upgrade my injectors?

Leave it zeroed out, and enjoy the blue display. :)

Cool...Thanks! I guess I will have to wait on the injectors/turbo until I can "play". Unless I can find some race gas!

There may still be some power to be found by tuning it. Only the track can tell you. Start taking out fuel in 1% incrememnts (while logging of course) and see what happens to your trap speed. Dont go for ET records, just make consistent runs with no drama, and traps speeds will be comparable from onerun to the next.

I have a feeling I am going to get flamed for this one....but....I have never been to the track. :rolleyes: Is there another way I can do this. Do you mean to take out fuel across the RPM range (Global settings ?) Wouldn't I need a roll bar to go to the track? The only one near me is about 20 min away and it's only 1/8 mile.

You should only need a roll bar if you are running faster than 13.99 if I remember correctly, but on a half track they may not even requrie it since speeds are much lower. OTher than that there is no good way to know if you are making things better or worse, except a dyno.