B18C1 or B16B

Which is a better turbo candidate. I am looking at the B18, but am concerned at how much extra weight it will add. I dont want the extra power to be lost trying to get more mass moving.

Stick with the GSR, cheaper, only 5 less hp, more tq, and slightly lower compression (slightly). You shouldn't be concerned at all with weight, you'll still be faster than with the stock motor even with the little added weight.

b18c1 better turbo they both have fairly high comp ratios the b16b is a rev happy allmotor motor

what about everyday drivability? Just to ponder,but how many MPG's will i be getting(roughly?!). 30ish?

h22

...turbo it

personally I say B18b for boost. You can get the motor and FI it for less $$$ then the B18c1+FI and make more HP and TQ. Plus it can take up to 12psi on stock internals

Don't worry about weight. It's not that much.

Not only is the engine more solid and have less compression, but it is cheaper. There are still a ton of them around. (That's a CRV engine for those of you that are sterile)

Strengthen the internal, upgrade the fuel pump and timing you should have a sweet ride.

Remember to drive safe!

And street racing is illegal! :)

Digital Dreadnaught is a puppet of the devil.

http://ddc.cc

I'd be careful with the B20 frankenstein motor. I've head lots of good things but also lots of bad things too. Like blow ups and long term reliabilty issues. If you're a racer go for it because you can pull some real power out of them with boost but if it'll be your daily driver just go with the B18/16 series

Im looking for something nice to drive to school, and work. (only 15 rite now) I really like the #'s that the B18C1 puts out. Plus its easy to install. I dont want to goe the H-series route because I have NO welding/cutting experience, and I have heard that it makes the car handle funny because it sits farther back in the engine bay. Ill be gettin that next year a High School. What wiring would the B18C1 be OBD1 or 2? Im looking to get a Drag turbo kit, so would it hold up @ 7 PSI on the stock internals of would I need to drop the comp. ratio?

Im looking for something nice to drive to school, and work. (only 15 rite now) I really like the #'s that the B18C1 puts out. Plus its easy to install. I dont want to goe the H-series route because I have NO welding/cutting experience, and I have heard that it makes the car handle funny because it sits farther back in the engine bay. Ill be gettin that next year a High School. What wiring would the B18C1 be OBD1 or 2? Im looking to get a Drag turbo kit, so would it hold up @ 7 PSI on the stock internals of would I need to drop the comp. ratio?

then stay in the B16/18 area. The b16 is a rev happy motor dg-racing has a 9 sec all motor b16. The b18c1 is the overall favorite of MANY draggers and can hold I believe it was 9psi on stock guts. Seriously if you're going to boost get the B18b because it's got more torque and that means faster acceleration, is more boost friendly than the B18c1, and cheaper.

For OBD1 or 2 it depends on the year of the motor. I think anything after 96 is OBD2 so if you got an OBD1 motor (pre 96) then there won't be a need to convert it.

B18B's arent Vtec are they? According to www.totalJDM.com the B18C has more torque.

they're not vtec but can be if you swap a vtec head onto them.

The B18c has 2ft/lbs more but look at the differences. the B18C1 makes 178Hp and only 129tq while the B18b has 142hp and 127tq. if you boost the b18b the torque/horsepower will be closer and the power band will be better. Here's some dyno sheets from www.importbuilders.com

USDM LS 10 psi
http://www.importreview.com/dyno/turbo/usls4.jpg


USDM GSR 9-10psi
http://www.importreview.com/dyno/turbo/gsr8psi.gif

not that this isnt an informative thread but dont some of you think these exact thread title and questions have come up at least 100 times before? seriously every single post in this thread is something that has been repeated more than 1000 times . do people just not know how to research or is the search function just too complicated?

i dont mean to be one of those guys that always says "hey go search weve answered the same question a million times" but arent there anymore topics to be covered? this is why we lose all the good members that have lots of knowledge and are always there to help, because newbs come on here asking the same question over and over and over.

if you people with these questions took the time to go back even one page and read the posts i guarantee youd find the answer to your question almost every time.

i wont even put my 2 cents into this because first of all ive done it many times before, and second its dependent on way too many factors. funds, goals, and even overall comfort all play a factor. do some research and make your own decision as to what motor youll choose. making your own decisions will make you much happier then going with someone elses suggestions, because that choice will be yours and yours alone.

yeah, it's been covered a gazillion times but I don't see an end in sight so I just try to be nice and answer the questions because maybe these "newbs" may become valuable members of AF one day

Thats a positive outlook on an otherwise annoying situation. When I was new I asked a similar question just honestly not knowing that it had been covered so much. But hey, maybe your right.

GSR has a much better trans for boosting, better flowing VTEC head from the factory, oil squirters to cool the pistons in a hot boosting environment, stronger internals from the factory. B16B's weigh just as much as B18C's because they use the same deck height as B18's. A B16A weights MARGINALLY less than a B18 because it uses a slightly smaller deck height.

If you're 15 you don't need a 300 horsepower turbo GSR car, you need a stock D-series car with bolt ons, so I'm going to say stock D-series with bolt ons.

Note: If you're going to try and argue that the LS trans is better for boosting because it has longer gears, you can go fist yourself, nice and deep. Nothing else to say except that you're wrong, numerically higher gears means quicker acceleration period.

I concur with boosted331 about how the GSR trans is better.

[QUOTE=Gogeta195]Not only is the engine more solid and have less compression, but it is cheaper. There are still a ton of them around. (That's a CRV engine f

GSR has a much better trans for boosting, better flowing VTEC head from the factory, oil squirters to cool the pistons in a hot boosting environment, stronger internals from the factory.

yep, right on

If you're 15 you don't need a 300 horsepower turbo GSR car, you need a stock D-series car with bolt ons, so I'm going to say stock D-series with bolt ons.

glad I wasnt the only one who thought that!

Yeah, boosted331, I know what youre talking about! this is gonna happen over the course of a few years. I dont exactly have the cash flow that most working adults have. soon to be making ~$75 a week @ the ice cream shop. Im probably gonna get the GSR engine/tranny w/ the LSD(S80 rite?) Im really hoping to learn alot about this car, and thx for not blowing me off(all of yall).

soon to be making ~$75 a week @ the ice cream shop.

great way to meet girls! :naughty: hot girls always like ice cream

dude unless you have money saved up already it's going to take you almost a year to save that much up. that is if it's not being taxed.

So could the B18C1 engine be a good All-motor compared to the B16B?

great way to meet girls! :naughty: hot girls always like ice cream
"Ahhh motha f***er said Ice Cream!" - Half Baked

So could the B18C1 engine be a good All-motor compared to the B16B?

Yes, but the b16b (CTR) is built for NA as is the B18c5(ITR) and they would be better at I think. The B18c1 and B18b are good boosting motors.

personally I like the b16a for all motor. http://www.dh-racing.com has a 9 second all motor civic with a B16a. The b16a is a REV happy motor. :2cents:

great way to meet girls! hot girls always like ice cream
Rite on man! I can only look, not touch now, cuz im tied down w/ another chick.

Half Baked
WOOOHOOOO Half Baked... Dave Chapelle!!! YEEEEEEAAAAAHHH

Back on topic, what is an "all motor"? Is it an engine that, like the B16B, is meant for mostly NA purposes?

all motor means exactly that, all-motor. No turbos, supercharger, nos, nothing but motor. Naturally-aspirated. Air or fuel-air mixture is forced into the cylinder by natural atmospheric pressure upon opening of the inlet valve or valves. Not forced in by turbo, SC etc.

Plus it can take up to 12psi on stock internals
Maybe with a beefy fuel system and expensive engine management, yes.. but with stock everything, welcome to lean city. Everybody talks about how cheap ls/turbo setups are until they actually do it. You retards think it's some video game where you just buy it and slap it on the car, ready to go, forgetting about electronics/other parts and dynotuning to make sure all the shit doesn't explode..

With a ton of money a c1 is a great motor to boost, but like any other boosted honda you gotta strenghten the internals. Stronger, lower-compression pistons, upgraded fuel system i.e. injectors and pump, forged rods, and all the engine management etc etc etc... I'll stick to n/a thanks. Oh, and the usdm c1's have 170hp, jdm's have 180.

If I could do it all again I'd still buy my b16b and build it up with no boost headaches. I can't afford a $4,000 "whoops", can any of you?

dude, what the hell is your problem? No one insulted you so why do you have to act like a prick calling everyone retards?

a B18b can hold upto 12psi on stock internals. I just didn't mention the fuel systems and engine management.

I too am a NA guy myself, unless it's a FI motor stock. NA is less of a headache.