NOS, what else do I need?

ok, I found this hit on JCWhitney for 499.95 and I was just wondering what else I need to buy to complete the kit if anything, and how hard is install on these? I am prettyu smart about cars, ive swapped bug engines, rebuilt one(and it DID run :D ) and ive done all the regular maintenance to all my cars. anyways, i just bought a 94 RS with I/H/E and am considering AEM tru power pullies, but i dont know if they really do anything, do they?

also I dont ant to spend the monrey on a SC (~4,000) but i do want a bit more performance, the NOS wont be used much at all, it is just in case im losing... like an insurance sorta. anyways, what else is needed?

Thanks

http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=43614&BQ=sc

and I was remembering something about wet systems were better but im not sure, anyone know of a comprable price wet system.

and I am already thinking of getting http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=43694&BQ=sc



and does anyone knoe where i can get a 12V DC botle heater for cheaper than 120bucks! and is it really necessary, i mean is it DANGEROUS without one, i will get one eventuall propably but i dint htink i can right now.

also, i know you should only spray at WOT, but with a stick, how do you do it when you shift, or are you supposed to keep youre foot on the gas while you shift, but then if you arent fast enough and the fuel cutoff hits, then you will blow up wont you?

do they have a switch that only lets the n20 flow when at WOT?

Thanks

Do u mean what else do u need as in Internal motor work??

i mean is there anything i should buy as far as extras for the kit, a 50 shot will run fine with stock B18B1 internaals wont it. and as long as I just dont go crazy wiht it. also what is better wet or dry, i saw the other post and some said wet are safer but some said it would bew no problem with a dry kit if it was a small shot like 50, and how does the dry kit "trick" the ECU into giving more fuel, i read this but didnt understand how. it ws something about there was more pressure to the injectors so it delivered motre fuel also.

all i know is that the wet kit is for higher horse power like 100- whatever shot of nos and the dry kit is for low number like a 50 or 75 shot

this may sound dumb, but how does it work, I know when it burns it releases more oxygen to burn more fuel or whatever but when you want to use it, do you press a button and it stays on for lie 10 seconds or can you choose how long?

its for a s long as you hold the button, its not recomended to hold it for more than 15 seconds though

oh you have to hold it? I was toild be careful when you shift to not hit rev limiter because the engine will be too lean, but how am i supposed to keep the buton pushed while i shifted anyways, I am not gonna mount it on my shift knob, also, what abouyt using it like towards the mid-end of 3rd gear, let off about 200-300 before redline, and then shift to 4th, and then spray again. what about using it in like the beginning of 3rd aldso, or even end of second- through 3rd, becasue someone told me top only use it in 4th or 5th, but I cant get it into 5th anywhere around here. and even 4th is pushing it, thats pretty fast for the lil back road thats raced on. and how safe on your engine is a 50 shot. I know it is always safer without it, but does 50 shot dramatically reduce engine life? like say used like 3 times a month. and how expensive its it to filla bottle. is there anywa for like 650 bucks to get the same power or close to it, but that will be used always and is safre on the engine, and... LEGAL! I was thinking, for 650, I could propably get like higher compression pistons, and while im sat it replace bearings and rings, and mabe some cams or soemthing, but then it will get worse mileage right? well the higher compression would get better wouldnt it, same mixture but hotter explosion, anyways, with the nos it is stock economy until you use the nos.


whatb webpage could i look at to find internals for this car?

Originally posted by 94tegRS
oh you have to hold it? I was toild be careful when you shift to not hit rev limiter because the engine will be too lean, but how am i supposed to keep the buton pushed while i shifted anyways, I am not gonna mount it on my shift knob, also, what abouyt using it like towards the mid-end of 3rd gear, let off about 200-300 before redline, and then shift to 4th, and then spray again. what about using it in like the beginning of 3rd aldso, or even end of second- through 3rd, becasue someone told me top only use it in 4th or 5th, but I cant get it into 5th anywhere around here. and even 4th is pushing it, thats pretty fast for the lil back road thats raced on. and how safe on your engine is a 50 shot. I know it is always safer without it, but does 50 shot dramatically reduce engine life? like say used like 3 times a month. and how expensive its it to filla bottle. is there anywa for like 650 bucks to get the same power or close to it, but that will be used always and is safre on the engine, and... LEGAL! I was thinking, for 650, I could propably get like higher compression pistons, and while im sat it replace bearings and rings, and mabe some cams or soemthing, but then it will get worse mileage right? well the higher compression would get better wouldnt it, same mixture but hotter explosion, anyways, with the nos it is stock economy until you use the nos.


whatb webpage could i look at to find internals for this car?

This kit will spray using a Wide Open Throttle switch. This means when the system is armed, it will spray when you have it floored. When you take your foot off the gas, it will stop. This is the safest way.
You can spray whenever you want, 1,2,3,4,5 gear. Just floor it and go. It makes no difference cause it's coming on at WOT.

ok, well I thoiught in first, Ill just spin them all the way through the gear. I omnl;y have some cheap road hugers or somethingf and am going to get some ZIEX or some FZ4 or soemhting, i really want T1-S but trhey are lie 199 each

depending on where you live you'll need a permit to fill your bottle

everett WA is wheere id fill it, maybe lynwood or seattle if i had to go that far

I'm gettin in on this a little bit late, but I think I may still be able to help you out a little bit. The main difference between a wet and dry nitrous kit is this...A dry kit sprays THROUGH the Mass Air Flow(MAF) of the car(the "thing" right after the intake). By doing this, the MAF senses the extra amount of oxygen(b/c of the n2o), and forces the ECU to inject more fuel into the air/fuel mixture going into the engine. This system is simple yet effective, and usually cheaper than a wet kit. Also, it is best used for low hp applications(anything up to about 100) b/c it's not a precise as a wet kit.
Now, a wet kit sprays AFTER the MAF. Where the dry kit has only a single solenoid for the nitrous(solenoid = the "thing" that pumps the nitrous), a wet kit has TWO solenoids. One for the nitrous, and another for the fuel. What happens is a controlled amount of nitrous is pumped by the nitrous solenoid and mixed with a precise amount of fuel pumped by the fuel solenoid. This mixture is then injected into the engine. Here's a great pic of a wet setup on an LS1 engine(same idea basically for an import) http://musclecartechnologies.com/NXPictures/DSCN0115.jpg .
The third type of set-up is called Direct-Port Injection. It's like a wet system in that it has seperate fuel and nitrous solenoids, but instead of mixing the two and then spraying them into the engine, a line from both the fuel and nitrous pumps are plumbed directly into EACH SEPERATE cylinder. To SEE exactly what I'm talking about, go here... http://musclecartechnologies.com/NXPictures/DSCN0235.jpg GREAT pic of a direct-port setup on an LS1 engine(v8 Camaro).
Wet kits are moe expensive than dry kits, but they are relatively more "safe", and precise, especially for higher HP applications(100 - 200).
You will notice that you are burning more fuel during nitrous use. You will notice that your clutch will go away sooner rather than later(although with only a 50 shot, it won't be TOO quick).
If you want a system with all the "goodies", look to spend close to an additional $400. This would include a WOT(wide-open throttle) switch, a purge set-up, a bottle heater, a window switch, and a fuel-safety switch.
A bottle heater isn't "necessary" but what you will notice is that you will be spraying, and it will suddenly feel like the n2o is off, even though you're still spraying. This is b/c the temp(and therefore pressure) has dropped too far for the solenoids to pump the nitrous any longer. The heater prevents this. The WOT switch has been explained before. A window switch is used to only allow nitrous to be used during during two specified RPMs, or a "window". This will help prevent spinning, and spraying near your rev-limiter. A fuel-safety switch is EXTREMELY important, in my opinion. What it does is it keeps tabs on your fuel injectors. If they for some reason fail(stop injecting enough fuel for the n2o), then the switch activates and cuts off your nitrous. If you don't have one and your injectors fail, say good-bye to your engine, b/c injecting straight nitrous will cause a few..."problems":rolleyes:
Well anyways, that's about all I can think of now. I know it's a TON of info to suck in, but try. And if you have any more questions, ask away, I'm glad to help!

Self
thanks for droppin some knowlege on my ass

well, I can buy a high pressure pressure plate and a new disc and throw out bearing and do it myself putting in, I know for a bug the clutch is liek 50 bucks, but for an integra and a performance clutch it will be a bit more, say,... 300 or so? I have no lcue? anyways, would a hi. per. clutch last longer? and as far as the extras, i found the kit for 450, I ofund the purge valve for 100, the heater fr like 180, ythe remotoe opener for 180, it already comes with the WOT switch, and i gues i need to fnd a woindow switch and canany work or does it have to be a zex window switch, also a fuel safety switch, how much are these?

Originally posted by 94tegRS
well, I can buy a high pressure pressure plate and a new disc and throw out bearing and do it myself putting in, I know for a bug the clutch is liek 50 bucks, but for an integra and a performance clutch it will be a bit more, say,... 300 or so? I have no lcue? anyways, would a hi. per. clutch last longer? and as far as the extras, i found the kit for 450, I ofund the purge valve for 100, the heater fr like 180, ythe remotoe opener for 180, it already comes with the WOT switch, and i gues i need to fnd a woindow switch and canany work or does it have to be a zex window switch, also a fuel safety switch, how much are these?

I don't really know what a good brand of clutch for imports is. Maybe ask around in the technical section, they can probably help you out with that over there. Either way, unless you REALLY know what you're doing, I wouldn't suggest installing your own clutch. It's a very delicate process, and if everyhing isn't lined up, spaced, and installed PERFECTLY, not only will your clutch end up a smoking hunk of useless metal, but you risk hurting your entire transmission. Anyways, a fuel safety switch will run you about $80 - $100 I'm guessing. I'm pretty sure you can find a heater for less than $180, $120 sounds more reasonable. Search around for lower prices on that one. Also, like I said, I don't really know too awfully much about import performance clutches, but for a domestic, a Star SPEC Stage III runs about 450. On my last vehicle, my clutch install was $350, so expect something like that. Any more questions? Glad to help:)

actually hondas and acuras do not have a MAF sensor after the filter, they use a MAP sensor at the intake manifold. the dry kit uses silanoids to raise fuel pressure to the injectors when nitrous is used. the 50 shot should be safe on your integ, as long as your engine is still in good condition, it is never a real good idea to squeez on a high mialege motor. another option for your car would be to save a little more cash and do a VTEC head from a b16. the head and computer all installed will run around $1000. this will be very quick because the LS bottom end will give you alot of torque, and the head will raise the horsepower in the upper rpm areas. just tellin ya some other options. just my 2 cents:)

well, my dad had rebuilt a few engines, my neighbor spends all his time buying from auctions and rebuilding cars, has reaplaced trannys and bvuilt engines for his muscle cars he drag raced in, I have replaced a clutch 2 times in a bug, and have doine lots of other regular maintenance, and learn quik about this stuyfff, and the only thing you need to do is put the disc against the fly wheel, put in the alignment shaft, and get it coming straight out, like no angles at all betwen it and the fly wheel, so the tranny shaft goes in smooth, thgen torque down the pressure plate in the right order. the bug cluctches both woprked perfect, we have a torque qrench and all that stuff, I am pretty sure I could do it with the help of my dad and if not him my neighbor. sopmeone told me to go ACT, I dunno, nnobody i knows has anyhing but a stock clutch.

thanks yellowteg. I thought about it, but i thought it would be more than that? but also, I dont know about it, cuz my dad has this dumb theory (well if you got the money it isnt bt im not rich) that if you tear apart the engine you ight as well replace everything. well at leats bearings rings, get all of it machined agtain, and have the crank turned and all this junk. but anyways, how much power do you usually get with the LS/VTEC

and i heard that with this swap the piston gets close to the valves when the vtec hits and they open further or soemyhing like that. is it only wiht different pistons or will the stock B18B1 pistons do this too. because I might think about also getting forged rods and some high c/r pistons, I can get it bored .020 over and sleved for 100 bucks at a local machine shoip(my neighbor uses themand is happy)

and with a bigger bore and ihg c/r i should have more torque also right? and the vtec wil goive me top end power, and then it ius built up for if i wanrt ot add a 50 shot or something like that later on.

do you think 2k is enough for the vtec conversion and the new rods/pistons, rod and main bearings, and machine work? I can do all of the assembly myself, so i dont have to pay for any of it, except i might have the sho[ do the tapping of the new oils supply.

also, i think the stock bore is 81mm, how hard is it to find pistons that are 83 mm. is there anohter honda that hads this bore and i can just use piston sets for it?

one more ?, If i already had the CRV block, then then CRVTEC would cost the same as he LS/VTEC right?

ad does the same ECU (like a gsr one) control a CRVTEC engine? or so i need a custom one made or somehting?

Do some research and look into a ZEX nitrous system. From what I,ve read, it is a safer set up for your engine, and a little cheaper.
I'll bet your smart enough to put a clutch in your Honda, but it is a real pain in the ass to do on the floor. Not bad with a lift rack.

ive done that