intermittent window problem??

The passenger window will work fine for a week and then it will decide to not work. Slamming doors won't help. I have replaced both motors. When it doesn't work, it won't work from either switch (drivers or passenger side). Are the door switches "connected?" Point being, do they both have to be in working order for either of them to work? I'm trying to determine if I have a ground problem or a switch problem. As of this minute, the passenger window is working fine. As of this morning, it was not working.

I have a 95 Transport with similar window problems. It can go down easily enough, but getting it up to close is done in small increments until finally...the windows are up the entire way. I checked the 30A circuit breaker that is below the glove box, just in front of the passenger's knee area and it seems to be just fine.

Out of curiosity did you ever solve the problem? I just don't want to replace the motors to later find out that the motors again do not work after 3 weeks, like some other owners have experienced on the internet. I replace the entire motor and regular assembly on the driver's down last year and it seemed to work fine for a few months, then I started having problems with the right front door and now both doors.

Let me know what your solution was....I would appreciate it...Thanks.

Stuart1003

See this diagram:
www.avigex.ca/pwrwindows

LMP,

You might as well be speaking to me in "tongues" as to post that diagram to me!!! HAHA

Stuart,

I noticed the other day when the window would not move, I smacked the inside door handle out of frustration, and lo and behold, it worked. I've decided to order the passenger side switch and see if this fixes the problem. It's definitely not the motor in my siuation.

Thanks to LMP for the diagram...

Gebo,

After typing on Google in order to find replacement window motors, it took less than a couple of minutes to find two companies that sold new domestic or import window motors with a lifetime warranty. They either sold for $44.95 or $39.95 for the domestically made ones or $34.95 for the import motors that supposedly had integrated improvements meant to overcome the inherent design defects or weaknesses of the OEM motors and to overcome any patent design issues associated with faithful reproductions of the OEM motors. Their website actually included a video tutorial on how to test faulty switches versus a truly defective motor...What a deal...

In regards to the window switches...I am assuming that it is still a dealer only item because of the way it seems to be integrated into the arm rest bezel that it is embedded in, unless it can be popped out or unscrewed out and replaced from the underside of the armrest bezel it sits in...I would like to know where you got your switches....dealer?....aftermarket? Thanks.

Stuart1003

I had to return 2 of the $49 motors I bought on line. The supposedly "OEM" ones. Too bad the labor wasn't "Free." I finally decided to go to NAPA and get 2 rebuilt ones.

Here's where I got the switches:

GMPartsDirect.com
Part # 10221254 (Drivers side) for $36.81 and PN 14098916 (Passenger Side) for $12.66 plus shipping.

Gebo,

Did the rebuilt motors 'finally' and the combination of the two switches finally solve the problematic windows? And by the way, how much and what was the warranty for the motors from Napa Auto. What was the problem with the so-called OEM replacement motors? Thanks for responding.

Stuart1003

I just ordered the passenger side switch and it hasn't arrived yet. THe on-line motors were as follows:

1 was bad at installation
1 broke in about 10 days
1 was returned working because I got scared it would break and I would have to pay another $50 per side per installation.

I was charged $100 each time for 2 installations.

Napa, I believe was lifetime warranty.

I will let you know after I install the switch. ACtually, some of my problem may have been an intermittent switch???

Gebo,

Thank you very much for the follow-up. Not to sound dense, but what did you mean by an 'intermittent switch'? To me the switch is simple enough in construction that it either works or does'nt. I am curious to see how the new switches and motor combinations all interact and work or not work...I will be looking for your response. thank you again....

Stuart1003

Stuart,

I'm wondering if I was getting a short in my switch. Sometimes my window worked, sometimes it didn't. I just got my new GM passenger switch today from www.gmpartsdirect.com. I'll get in in by Friday and will let you know. Right now I'm getting a transmission rebuild to the tune of $1200-$1600. YIKES!!!

[QUOTE=Gebo]Stuart,

Gebo,

That is exactly what was happening to me...sometimes it worked and sometimes forget it...We would leave it alone for a while (minutes, hours, or later in the day), then sometimes it would work again and lately not working...

Did your mechanic test the existing switch with a continuity meter to see if voltage was being provided to the motor while pushing the switch either in the up or down position. This is simple enough to check when he uplugs the power loom from the window motor. When he or she plugs in the new switches, have them check the power output at the plug where it plugs into the motort, before the installation is totally complete. I sincerely hope that your situation is solved.

I empathize with you regarding the transmission. I just replaced the catalytic converter a couple of weeks ago for $300. Gee, for a family zip around town, baseball practice, Costco, Home Depot vehicle, sometimes I wonder why I keep it despite it costs far less than today's Honday Odessey or Toyota Sienna. I swear, I have never, never, never had the problems associated with this vehicle in comparison to all my other vehicles.

Again, thank you for sharing your experiences with the motors with me. I don't have that much faith in the integrity of the local dealer and almost ready to venture out and buy non-dealer motors, but first I will check the functionality of the switches. Thanks.

Stuart 1003

I ONLY CHEcked the voltage at the motor. I never checked it before the switch!!!!!!!! HEhe. .

if these vehicles are high mileage, you may have a broken wire where they go from the body to the door. The opening and closing of the doors fatigues the copper strands and causes them to break internally. Do a continuity test on each wire from a point inside the door to a point inside the vehicle, that would locate a broken wire.

Stuart,
It was NOT the switch. I've been fiddling with it today and have noticed if I move the wires that are back in the door panel area I can make the window move. I can wait a few minutes and the window may work or not work. The next time it doesn't work, I can move the bunch of wires while holding the switch and if I happen to move them the right way, the window will come down.

As a matter of fact, if I move the wires going to the connector to the motor, I will allways get juice. I'm gonna work on the connector area. Maybe squeeze the two little connectors a little to make a tighter fit.

Oh, I have a switch for the passenger door window for sale..$15 including shipping. THis is the new GM one I just got buy don't need.

Gebo,

This intermittent behavior is exactly what I have experienced. I have done a similar thing in removing the right door panel and fiddling with the connector area in order to get it to work. Initially, I felt I got the same results as you did an suspected the connector, but I have made sure that the connectors is positively connected and duct taped together so that they would not separate, but unfortunately to not consistent result.

I have not seriously gone on to absolutely test the power output at the motor switch level, but I will start the diagnosis process to day. The schematic on the 2-way setup for this window circuit seems easy enough and don't think that for example a faulty passenger window switch could cause an 'open' in the circuit, therby not allowing both windows to work properly...but maybe I am completely wrong. Again, I am going to test both switches today and maybe try to independently power each motor so that I can assure myself that the motor or the circuit breaker built inside each motor is not faulty.

In other words, if all 3 window switches all show that they are outputting DC voltage in either the up or down position, then my initial suspect will be the motors. If upon feeding power independently to each motor I am hoping that each motor goes up a limited amount either up or down, therby verifying that the motor has something inherently faulty with it. Who the heck knows... I am getting fed up with something that should seem so ordinary, normal, mundane, and frankly should work almost indefinitely...At least this is the experience I have had with my Japanese and German made cars...this is ridiculous!

I'll let you know my outcomes tomorrow. Thanks for the replay.

Stuart1003

Stuart,

I have only had Toyota's, Lexus' and Honda's so I have been spoiled as far as repair work goes. I only bought this van because I wanted a clunker. I thought I was "stealing" this van for $600. I may have been the one getting stolen from, ha!!