valve tick? but only under vaccum

ok, a few days ago my civics B20(I got the B18 head form my teg on it) started to tick, so I popped off the valve cover and adjusted all the folwers to the specified valve lash. anyways this did not fix the problem. now the wierd thing is, when I start it up and its idleing it will do it, and when im drving and let off the throttle it will do it, but while Im listening to it tick, I can aply throttle very slowly, and then almost before I even out the manifolds pressure I can hear it slow way down and if I give it barely more to even it out or give it a tiny bit more it stops. like you know when you have exhaust and if you let off its kinda loud, if you give it gas its loud, but theres that sweet spot that makes the exhaust go almost silent, right then is when the tick goes away. the other day I used a stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise, well of course it decide to quiet down, so I couldnt find it, only ticking i could hear from anywhere was from the 4 injectors. any ideas on what this noise could be? or any ideas on why it only ticks under vaccum? how is a good way to test the oil pump? not sure how it could be the pump though cuz rpm is the only thing the pump works off of, not throttle.


I have one really far ffethced theory about valve/piston contact and timing belt slack, but it has like a .001% possibility in my mind of working though, but Im gonna try to take a bit of slack out of the belt if I can, it was pretty tight when i pushed on it when the valve cover was off, but maybe its too loose. hopefully but I highly doubt it.

ah SHIT, I think I bent a valve. I took the valve cover off again and the belt had way too much slack, not ALOT, but more than it should, I could push from the cam gears inwards on each gear and get a bow in the belt just from that, and I pushed on the belt and got some more, I loosened the tensioner and reset the timing belt, got it taunt and tightened the tensioner, put it back togetehr and started it and let it run, tick was still there but I let it go a while, took the cover off and the belt is still good and tight. I adjusted the valves one more time to their minimum clearance just to see if in the middle of its specs still let it tick in my setup. nope. Im gonna compression test the sucker tomorrow to pinpoint the cylinder, hopegfully I find it before cylinder 4 though because that plug is stripped( bought the teg the heads form and changed plugs and the plug was hard all the way out, loked at it and luckily the heads threads are stronger than the plugs, I put in the new plug in and out in and out farther in each time, and I could see each time the plug came out, I could watch the spot where the new threads were forming on the plug, got it to the end and then did a 1/2 more turn. so I dont wanna have to take that sucker out til its time to replace it.) well, its an excuse for the VTEC swap I guess is the best way to look at it.

So what was the cause of the ticking.

I think it is just a bent valve that ticks everytime it hits the seat, makes the noise because it doesnt sit flat and close quietly anymore, havent had time to do a compression check yet though to see if there is a bent valve so I am not totally sure. problem is, I got all the same valves, same lobes all the way across on the cams, same piston domes in every cylinder, so if one bent I would think all 8 would on the intake cam.

AH SHIT!! :mad: :banghead:

I just replaced the entire head tonight, the one that came with the B20 that I had scrubbed the valve faces, ports, combustion chambers, whole head looks almost new, so I slapped it on and readjusted the valves, set the belts timing and did all that crap, fired it up and..... TICK TICK TICK!!!!!

I guess it is a rod bearing. now I am gonna put the sucker on the lift, drop the pan, and Im gonna try just throwing my crank/main caps, rod bearings from my B18B up into the B20 using the rods that are in there now. I havent looked at my bok or under to se if Ill be able to do all this with the engine in the cra but I REALLY dont wanna pull the whole setup out once again, just to fix it and put it in.. ONCE AGAIN!

anybody see any reasons this wont swork? or any other things I couold check for this knock before I go to this trouble. it started as a tick but its staring to sound more and more like a rod knock like my friends supra did when it threw a rod bearing.

well, my neighbor guessed it was a wrist pin the first time he heard it, dont know how he got that idea from the noise. but low and behold, today I am swapping in the B18b and see my number 4 cylinder wall has 2 big as 1 mm deep grooves the entire length the pin travels in the cylinder.

so whenever the engine goes back int a car I guess its gonna be a 2.15L or whatever an 86mm bore is with a 89mm stroke(I recall thats what it is off my head, dont wanna look to be sure though)

u probably bent a rod

well, wouldnt it put even more stress on the wrist pin and keep it in place, if I had a bent rodx to begin with, how longn do you trhink it wouold take for the rod end to wwear from extra stress to let the wrist pihn slip, around 600 miles, cuz I had the rods checkled and the pins pressed ata speed shoip and it was all fine, maybe they missed something...

I have the same problem, about 2 weeks ago I swapped a B16a in my CRX and I did a oil change a week later and my car ticks like crazy, I have the same problem. I did a valve adjustment and nothing. I think I might have a bent valve too

I just came back and the ticking got louder and louder. We took off the valve cover and cams and everything looks good, oil clean, no signs of wear. He used a sylacope something like that to try to hear were the sound was coming from, and it didn't really help. If I need to get my head redone it will cost around $500, I just got the DAMN MOTOR!!!. I called HMotorsOnline and they said that the car runs so they won't cover it. I also read someone who had the same problem change his head and it still ticked. I don't want to spend $500 and there will still be a problem.

It will tick for about 20 seconds straight and then not tick for like 15 seconds. I don't think it is a rocker arm or a bent valve becuase 15 seconds is too long of a period apart for it not to tick. So he told me wait till it gets worse and then maybe we might find the problem. He also said since they shipped this motor from Japan that it could of gunk in it and the oil changed released the gunk. Since I just did a oil change and it has only been 80 miles it might get better.........lets hope

Yo must be going crazy with that. :)
My Galant is making that tick tick noise and I and still trying to figure out what is it, my dignosis is that is Hydrolic Lifters, in the rocker arms. But it is just a guess. Now a days I am hulusinating that it is not comming from head radhter comming from Fuel injection system. :(
Some time is goes away specially over 2000 RPM

I bet it doesnt go away it just happens so many more times per second that it makes a steady noise and not ticking. not sure what your engine is but under my hood at 2k rpms, every second theres about 530 chances for a tick, and I can hear the injectors and shit ticking at idle, and rev it up and it gets faster and faster til it is gone (just cuz my human ears/brain cant process a shitload of ticks per second)

My car sounds like the ticking is coming from the fuel injector area but it is not the fuel injectors. The faster I go the louder and the faster the ticking gets, especially up hill. It doesn't do it on the freeway probabally because I can't hear it

Old thread alert!

I changed my injectors and it still ticks, it ticks a lot going up hill, but on the freeway, I dont really hear it

What the hell 4banger69, I already told you that this was an old thread, and you still posted in it...a month later too. DON'T do it again.

Your loss motion assemblies are the problem

Your loss motion assemblies are the problem


What the hell. once again you brought up this old ass thread. Would a mod lock it already.

go to hell, need to solve the problem so what if it is old, I need a solution

Changed my Loss Motion Assemblies today and it stopped ticking

I changed my injectors and it still ticks, it ticks a lot going up hill, but on the freeway, I dont really hear it

Mine are ticking too. One thing that wasn't mentioned here was worn rocker arms.

I went through and set the valves a little tight thinking this would help but not. I have had a couple of friends talk about it and worn rockers came up both times.

What is worst is I can't find directions to check this. Is it side to side play or up and down on the rocker arm shaft.

Or are they just loud on a d16a6? Hmmm.

Smoghog

I am telling you it is the loss motion assemblies connected to your rocker arms. My ticking was real bad but now it is gone since I replaced them

I am telling you it is the loss motion assemblies connected to your rocker arms. My ticking was real bad but now it is gone since I replaced them

Sorry all but I need to know. What are motion loss assemblies?

A description, a picture, or where to go to get them. No parts places know what I am talking about.

Thanx

SH

I am telling you it is the loss motion assemblies connected to your rocker arms. My ticking was real bad but now it is gone since I replaced them

IF YOU ARE GOING TO THROW BULLSHIT AROUND YOU BETTER BE PREPARED TO CATCH IT TOO.

DO WE NEED DUMBASS'S ON THIS FORUM GIVING OUT F#*&-UP INFORMATION??? NO!!!!

I hope someone read's this and knows you, and F#%&'s with you.

And I hope your $500 motor blows up on you.

SH