Transmission/RPM
rottis72730
08-08-2004, 04:26 AM
My 1995 Aurora just started having this particular proble: 1. The check enging light activates, and the RPMS increase and acts like it doesn't want to shift. 2. If I turn off the key, coast in neutral and restart, the problem goes away for a little while only to return again. Any advice on what this could be would be greatly appreciated. Also, the transmission does not make any noises, nor does it seem to really act up other than the engine light, and the RPM increase.
Thanks very much,
Mark, Farmington, AR
Thanks very much,
Mark, Farmington, AR
Sweet William
08-08-2004, 08:22 AM
Shift solenoids? Sounds like what mine would did when the solenoids went out. Trans would go into limp home mode (second gear) and would reset if car was turned off. No bad sounds or feelings go with the solenoids, it just won't shift. There are two of them in the bottom of the trans. It's not a bad job to do yourself. If you want to check further you can have it scanned, should get po29 and/or po94 (one for each solenoid) codes.
The new ones come as an update kit. The solenoids come with a new bracket (not there now) and a new screen. Should be less than $70 from the dealer. I was qouted any where from $400 to $800 to do the job. I did in my driveway on my back in about two hours.
a) the job is a mess, be prepared.
drop the pan, and careful removing the tranny gasket, it is steel re-usable. Once you clean the pan, you can reset it with gasket sealer.
c) disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors and the mechanical linkage. The linkage has a metal clip you lift and slide.
d) remove the valve body screws, and drop the valve body.
e) place the valve body where you can afford a mess, it will continually leak. Best thing is to set it on cardboard on a bench. There is a valve spool that can be removed as well, careful it can slip out, you don't want to damage it.
f) remove the two clips holding the solenoids, careful they are spring-loaded and will fly
g) remove the screws holding the "large" portion of the valve body split, this is where the solenoids are incased. Remember the screw locations, there are about four different screw lengths
h) CAREFULLY remove split, there are 4 steel check balls loose inside the split (about 1/4" diameter, they will fly, as well)
i) inspect spacer plate, if the black coating is not chipping off you can re-use it, otherwise plan on spending another $ 70 at the dealership parts house. If you replace it you will have to remove the "smaller" split, as well. It also has three check balls.
j) replace the solenoids
k) now comes the fun,....you will note three holes in the spacer plate where three of the check balls reside, seat them there (appr. 3/16" diameter with a smaller relief hole next to it, as I remember). The fourth check ball will need to be inserted in a spherically-cast cavity which is near one the solenoids. You can set it with grease, I re-assembled successfully without using grease.
l) re-assemble valve body, carefully and equally torque.
m) you will note a square black plastic item near one of the solenoids, on the end. Replace this plastic filter with the new filter in the solenoid kit. The kit will also come with an L-shaped bracket that is to be used to "capture" this filter and keep it from backing out. The kit also comes with a slightly longer screw used to mount the bracket to the valve body (discard the old screw).
m) re-assemble valve body to transmission, hook up linkage and electrical connectors
n) replace both tranny filters
o) replenish fluid
p) reset codes
There IS a hidden drain plug for the side cover oil (where most of the oil is...) that is accessible once the lower pan is removed. The plug is pretty evident on the end of the trans under the side cover.
The new ones come as an update kit. The solenoids come with a new bracket (not there now) and a new screen. Should be less than $70 from the dealer. I was qouted any where from $400 to $800 to do the job. I did in my driveway on my back in about two hours.
a) the job is a mess, be prepared.
drop the pan, and careful removing the tranny gasket, it is steel re-usable. Once you clean the pan, you can reset it with gasket sealer.
c) disconnect the solenoid electrical connectors and the mechanical linkage. The linkage has a metal clip you lift and slide.
d) remove the valve body screws, and drop the valve body.
e) place the valve body where you can afford a mess, it will continually leak. Best thing is to set it on cardboard on a bench. There is a valve spool that can be removed as well, careful it can slip out, you don't want to damage it.
f) remove the two clips holding the solenoids, careful they are spring-loaded and will fly
g) remove the screws holding the "large" portion of the valve body split, this is where the solenoids are incased. Remember the screw locations, there are about four different screw lengths
h) CAREFULLY remove split, there are 4 steel check balls loose inside the split (about 1/4" diameter, they will fly, as well)
i) inspect spacer plate, if the black coating is not chipping off you can re-use it, otherwise plan on spending another $ 70 at the dealership parts house. If you replace it you will have to remove the "smaller" split, as well. It also has three check balls.
j) replace the solenoids
k) now comes the fun,....you will note three holes in the spacer plate where three of the check balls reside, seat them there (appr. 3/16" diameter with a smaller relief hole next to it, as I remember). The fourth check ball will need to be inserted in a spherically-cast cavity which is near one the solenoids. You can set it with grease, I re-assembled successfully without using grease.
l) re-assemble valve body, carefully and equally torque.
m) you will note a square black plastic item near one of the solenoids, on the end. Replace this plastic filter with the new filter in the solenoid kit. The kit will also come with an L-shaped bracket that is to be used to "capture" this filter and keep it from backing out. The kit also comes with a slightly longer screw used to mount the bracket to the valve body (discard the old screw).
m) re-assemble valve body to transmission, hook up linkage and electrical connectors
n) replace both tranny filters
o) replenish fluid
p) reset codes
There IS a hidden drain plug for the side cover oil (where most of the oil is...) that is accessible once the lower pan is removed. The plug is pretty evident on the end of the trans under the side cover.
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