Hesitation and Check Engine light

My 95 Olds 88 has been running fine except for an oil leak, until recently. It started hesitating while idling or starting from a stop, also when I'm turning sometimes. I press the gas and it acts like it isn't getting fuel. One time the car started chiming while I was driving, and the engine light came on, then it froze. It wouldn't go forward or reverse, and the steering wheel locked up. I had to restart the car. Now the engine light comes on whenever I start the car, although it only acts up sometimes. What might this be?

Another thing it does...it won't start sometimes, acts like the battery is dead...but it's a new battery.

The car has about 160k miles on it and has only had one owner before me. It looks well maintained, from what I can tell.

Make sure your battery connections are very tight. For your engine light code, go to your local AutoZone and have then hook up to their equipment for "free" to tell you what error code is making the light stay on.

Thanks...will do. Glad to hear Autozone does diagnostic checks for free. The cheapest I could find to have someone check for me is $58. One place actually told me $140. What a rip off.

Anyway, thanks.

Hey I have the same problem on my 89 delta 88 royale. I've been to autozone found the error code which is 041 it mean that either the cam position sensor is bad or the ecm engine control moduel is bad I replace the Camshaft position sensor problem stayed I was told that is is the ECM which cost about a hundred dollars new and its cheap to go to the junk yard and get one. If you get it fixed let me know I have not gotten mine fixed yet but I wonder how long it'll hold up like that.

Thanks...will do. Glad to hear Autozone does diagnostic checks for free. The cheapest I could find to have someone check for me is $58.


No autozone cannot check your car as it is a hybrid obd1.

dude my car did the same thing,1999 olds lss, 3.8 lt engine, the engine light came on and the car hesitated and idled rough, i replaced all the throttle body sensors cost me over 250 bucks, and the problem was a bad spark plug wire, so save some money and throw on a new set of wires and the car will run great, it did for me , later dude

ok b4 i go off on a tangent let me describe to you how to get the codes yourself...
1.) find a paperclip and bend it up so you can do step 2
2.) jam it in the bottom 2 holes to the left in odb socket
3.) turn the ignition to the on position, but don't start it.
4.) the radiator fans should then kick in
5.) watch the service engine light closely
a.) the light will flash once, pause for a short time and then flash twice. Then the light will pause for a longer time. this represent code number 12. the code coincides with the number of flashes. each code will flash a total of three times, so write them down.

that is how you diagnose a car with the odb1 series socket... it's reallly not that hard.

as for your cam shaft sensor, it's probably not the sensor but the magnet that triggers it. if you value your time and money, and don't wish to rip the timing chain cover, timing gears, chain, and every other thing attached to the cover, the you will need to see this site.

http://padgett.performanceresearch.us/cars/cammag.htm

this site will show you how to fix it WITHOUT having to rip the engine out of your car. oh, and while your at it, pick up and oil pan gasket, because your gonna need to clean all the broken plastic pieces from the magnet from the inside of your pan.

i should also note that if you pay attention to the instructions on that site closely, and be very patient, then like me, your car will be running in no time flat. it has been nearly half a year since the exact same problem has happened to me, and my car runs just fine.

good luck, and be patient:)

ok b4 i go off on a tangent let me describe to you how to get the codes yourself...
1.) find a paperclip and bend it up so you can do step 2
2.) jam it in the bottom 2 holes to the left in odb socket
3.) turn the ignition to the on position, but don't start it.
4.) the radiator fans should then kick in
5.) watch the service engine light closely
a.) the light will flash once, pause for a short time and then flash twice. Then the light will pause for a longer time. this represent code number 12. the code coincides with the number of flashes. each code will flash a total of three times, so write them down.

that is how you diagnose a car with the odb1 series socket... it's reallly not that hard.

as for your cam shaft sensor, it's probably not the sensor but the magnet that triggers it. if you value your time and money, and don't wish to rip the timing chain cover, timing gears, chain, and every other thing attached to the cover, the you will need to see this site.

http://padgett.performanceresearch.us/cars/cammag.htm

this site will show you how to fix it WITHOUT having to rip the engine out of your car. oh, and while your at it, pick up and oil pan gasket, because your gonna need to clean all the broken plastic pieces from the magnet from the inside of your pan.

i should also note that if you pay attention to the instructions on that site closely, and be very patient, then like me, your car will be running in no time flat. it has been nearly half a year since the exact same problem has happened to me, and my car runs just fine.

good luck, and be patient:)


your inccorrect. check the year again bud

ooo lol sry. put if he has the odb1, the paperclip trick should work shouldn't it? and the website i gave helped me get mine fixed... i don't know what kind of engine he has, but if it is the cam mag, the site would still be able to help neways shouldn't it. At that i would imagine that any kind of car with a cam mag in the cam gear should technically be able to be fixed by the same means, correct? if not why wouldn't it?