**Slow Power Window..1993 525iTouring

I have a '93 525iTouring Wagon with a very slow rearview power window. Before I bought it, I noticed it was slow. It was better when I went to pick it up, and the mech. said he just "cleaned it".
Any idea what he meant or what could be the problem? Any tricks to taking the inside door panel off to see the guts of the PW motor?
Bman......

You most likely have a bad motor if its slow. I dont really think it has anything to do with your window regulator. But when he said he cleaned it thats most likely what he did, clean the window. It might of caused less friction against soemthing whatever he put on it there for the morot didnt have to push as hard.

And the easyest way to take off your door pannel is

Your need a T20 torx
10mm socket
Flathead screw driver.

Find all the hiden holes and take out the T20 screws, I think theres 3 on the arm rest (2 in the back 1 behind the window switch) then there is one behind the door handle.

Stick the screw driver between the metal and door pannel part at a hidden spot so it you screw it up no one will see it. Pull the pannel out. It has little push in clips that should pull with out, might take a little pressure but dont be scaired to really pull on it. Just dont go psyco on it and rip it in 1/2.

After that your take off all the wires that go to the speakers and door handle. Then you can start pealing the foam sound barrier away. Theres this black sticky stuff that holds it on. A razor blade or knife will help you out on cutting the black stuff.

After that your see the motor and the window regulator. I think the motor has T30 torx screws holding it in and a wire connecting to it.
Just take your time and look over it before you rip it appart.

Thanks for the info....sounds like you have one this once or twice.
I have done enough mech work on cars, but have never heard of a T20 Torx...is that a hex wrench?
Bman

You most likely have a bad motor if its slow. I dont really think it has anything to do with your window regulator. But when he said he cleaned it thats most likely what he did, clean the window. It might of caused less friction against soemthing whatever he put on it there for the morot didnt have to push as hard.

And the easyest way to take off your door pannel is

Your need a T20 torx
10mm socket
Flathead screw driver.

Find all the hiden holes and take out the T20 screws, I think theres 3 on the arm rest (2 in the back 1 behind the window switch) then there is one behind the door handle.

Stick the screw driver between the metal and door pannel part at a hidden spot so it you screw it up no one will see it. Pull the pannel out. It has little push in clips that should pull with out, might take a little pressure but dont be scaired to really pull on it. Just dont go psyco on it and rip it in 1/2.

After that your take off all the wires that go to the speakers and door handle. Then you can start pealing the foam sound barrier away. Theres this black sticky stuff that holds it on. A razor blade or knife will help you out on cutting the black stuff.

After that your see the motor and the window regulator. I think the motor has T30 torx screws holding it in and a wire connecting to it.
Just take your time and look over it before you rip it appart.

Yes you can use a hex wrench if the screw looks like it. But if it has sharp pointed edges then so it looks like a star * thats a torx. You can buy them at sears one by one or in a set. Might cost about 30$. Also they look exacatly like screw drivers just with * tips.

Yea I do window regulators about 4 a week so its kinda imprinted into my head on how to take a door pannel appart.


This is a Torx
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00941475000

'TheBman69', I just spent 10 min's as to how to remove your door panel----clicked 'REPLY'--"the server was too busy and it vanished"----- without damage [I've seen many from incorrect removals on E32' & E34's]
If you'd like the info, E-mail me from the 'profile' page.............jeffb.

E34 door panels [E32 is similar] or "the mysterious hidden clip". Remove the rear door panel by first unscrewing the lock button and carefully popping out the screw covers 'behind' the door 'opener' handle, at the top of the door 'pull' [what you grab to close the door], and remove the ashtray for the third screw. All E34's use 'phillips' screws I think. Next, pop the outer edges of the panel, a narrow, heavy-duty putty knife works well. START at the lower rear corner, working your way across the bottom then up the forward edge, then the rear edge. These edges are retained by small round plastic 'buttons' that snap into holes in the door skin. The top of the panel is retained by flat clips and is going to separate away from the polished metal trim/inner glass seal. Using a small screwdriver for leverage, start at the top front corner then the rear corner, then work across the entire top of the panel 'til it's free..............NOW, for the CENTER CLIP..[ it DOES NOT pull away like the others!]...with the panel now released around the edges and while holding the top edge free and slightly away from the door with one hand, grab the bottom of the panel with the other and SLIDE the panel straight up [towards the top of the door] to release the panel from this clip, BUT JUST ENOUGH to free the panel. You still need to unhook the door opener cable from the lever and unplug the window switch. The switch pushes out of the panel to plug it back in for testing the window. Carefully pull in insulation foam off by working at the edges and EXPOSE your door's inner workings.
* * * * *DO NOT OPERATE THE WINDOW WITH YOUR HAND INSIDE THE DOOR * * * I have seen 'professionals' mangle them as E34's have NO anti-trap feature.

"TheBman69".......I don't think the motor is the problem, check the seals, guides, regulator and attaching clips.

Read the panel removal with great interest. Is there a similiar great discription for the front driver door on a 90 E34?

Having lock problems. Drat!

Why yes....read the rear door description, add: Remove the small phillips screw from the bottom of the tweeter [inside of the rear view mirror], carefully 'pop' out the bottom of the speaker and remove [wires], loosen the larger facia screw behind the mirror and side the facia off the door.
mix well and store in a warm dry place [ sorry, watching "Good Eats" ]..
the remainder of the job is like the rear..........have fun, stay in touch....

Gotcha, sounds like some father son time is in the offing!