a/f gauge

I have an autometer air fuel gauge in my pillar pod (2 1/16" digital ultralite) and I've heard how they don't work that great and all. Well, mine worked for over 2 years but now it's fucking up. I checked the connections and they're all good. I'm getting the first blinking red light all the time with the actual readings kind of subdued (ie. not lit up as bright as the bright red blinking). I've heard that they have to be hooked up close to the ECU to work accurately... (I've also heard that single wire un-heated stock O2 sensor doesn't really help much)... but mine is wired up closer to the dizzy than the ECU but it's the same connection. I guess whoever wired it up didn't want to screw with the ECU wire harness (still has factory wrap on most of it) but it's soddered nonetheless. I don't really know if that makes a damn bit of difference though cuz like I said it worked for over 2 years. Could it just be old and tired???

BTW: I finally replaced O2 sensor (with $17 Bosch) and no more code 1 :smokin: and the guage was acting up prior to O2 switch... I was just too lazy to get on my back under the car. Sorry for the long thread.

It seems to work when the car is properly warmed up which - contrary to the fact that it's 90 degrees outside - takes a little longer cuz my fan stays on all the time. I was going to rewire it cuz I got the diagram but the ass that switched my motor yanked the relay when wiring the fan to the ignition. And, on a different note, I don't know if it has anything to do with the weather or WTF but my battery light has been popping on when I come to a stop, then it goes away... weird. Do I need a new battery?

LOL, the battery light as nothing to do with your battery itself. The battery light is really for your altenator. When it lights up it means its not producing power or not enough power. I'd get that looked at before you get stranded somewhere.

I doubt I'll get stranded...sheesh... I have underdrive pulleys and my cooling fan stays on constantly. I watch my electronics carefully. Trust me if I was going to get stranded it would have happened by now... LOL. Anyway, it doesn't happen all the time. If it is the alternator at least I now know where to get a decent one. It was quite a task considering Avanced Auto sells the absolute worst alternators, so I'll go to Mr. Alternator (one year warranty and the one I got from them is now 2 years old).

You have after market pulleys?
Your alternator needs to spin at a high enough speed to make power... it might just be your pulley kit makes it spin too slow at idle. one day it may make your car run out of power cuz its not charging. i donno about the A/F gauge problem...

I've been using pulleys for as long as I've owned my car. My idle is generally higher (1200rpms), except when it's hot out. I have a Jacobs Ignition system too. My A/F guage works good when the engine is warmed up (I guess it has to do with single wire O2 sensor taking awhile to get hot). I was thinking about getting a Optima Yellow Top Deep Cycle battery when my Interstate finally craps out.

You don't think you'll get stranded eh? Do you even know what your altenator does? It powers your battery as your motor drains energy from the battery. Now if your altenator stops working your car will slowly die out. If it doesn't happen all the time then thats probably a sign of it just starting to go bad. Thanks for the additude when I was trying to help you out.

thanks for the advice...

first off, i totally agree with hybrid. hes trying to provide a solution. so dont back talk when when he gives you advice. as for your problems. hes totally right, its your alternator. i just had mine go 2 months ago on a trip. so do it while you know whats wrong with it. as for your a/f guage i jsut installed mine. and of course it takes time for the sensor to warm up, thats how honda 02's work. any other questions?

as for the one red being on while the actual reading is on too. thats the way its. your o2 sensor isnt made for an acurate reading, either is the guage thats why it happens.

Yeah, back talking an asshole is a waste of time. I've come to the conclusion that nothing Hybrid1990crx says is positive. I consider his advice as I would consider anyone elses. However, he is not a god and is not always right. Also, in the IM conversation we had, he was very disrespectful hence my use of expletive language notably seen in his signature... which I may add was not posted on AF.

just to throw in why ppl say they suck is they arnt giving you very good info its a light show get a wide band O2 *100* but well worth it for tuning

Yes yes our AIM conversation. I wish I would have saved it. It pretty much involved me asking why he was being such a dick to me. And then involved him saying a lot of nasty shit about my mother. If you have it saved turtle, please please post it up, I have nothing to hide.

children children....


battery light- under drive pulley probably isnt spinning alt fast enough to put out much of a charge at idel like they said, that in combination with a battery that is getting old is probably why your light comes on at idel. But I'm sure it makes up for the slow charge once you get the car going.

OEM type o2 sensors dont work great with AF gauges, but work decent. More than likely your gauge just got old and is wearing out.

Thanks Silent Chamber. O2 sensor 2 days in and threw code 1 again. I lived with it for 2 years so I guess I won't worry about it.

I apologize for being nasty. I do have a bad attitude and I've quit smoking cigarettes cold turkey going on 5 days now... trying to turn over a new leaf...

check out:

www.geocities.com/krustindumm/resources.htm

code 1 diagnostic flow chart will end your troubles.

just to throw in why ppl say they suck is they arnt giving you very good info its a light show get a wide band O2 *100* but well worth it for tuning

You took the words right out of my mouth.