Brake light and abs at the same time?

my 99 durango's brake light and abs light came on at the same time could these have anything to do with each other?

Yes.

Same problem with my '99. I changed out the rear abs sensor on the differential, the sensor on the transmission, checked brake fluid level, and reset the computer. Both lights are still on :(

Dealer said it's the abs control module and will cost about $500 parts and labor. Is this a difficult job or require special tools? I wouldn't mind tackling it myself but am not familiar with the abs system.

Jay

I just replaced my ABS control module $242 of course dealer part only. Easy to put in 2 screws and 2 plugs. Little black box located on driver side, under hood, near the brake fluid. Took care of the brake light but made the ABS light flash.

The computer needs to be reset and I tryied taking the battery cables off and it didn't work so I talked to a shop and they said it needs to be reprogramed $140. Dealer wanted a little over $500.

I haven't took the step yet to get it programed yet. Still hoping someone can tell me how to reset it myself.

I just replaced my ABS control module $242 of course dealer part only. Easy to put in 2 screws and 2 plugs. Little black box located on driver side, under hood, near the brake fluid. Took care of the brake light but made the ABS light flash.

Thanks for the info.

Great price on the ABS module. My local dealer wants $425 for the part and 1 hour labor (hence the $500 cost). If I could get the part for $242 and install myself that would save a ton of money.

Hi I'm new to this board....recebntly purchased 1999 Durango (5.2)
I too have an ABS Control Module situation, but was given a price of $1400! (parts and labor)

Where and when did you get the ABS CONTROL MODULE for $242?

And a related question....;
I was told the ABS is functioning fine mechanically, but the module is having a INTERNAL MAIN RELAY FAILURE (c3221b?) and not reading the signal from the newly replaced sensors.
Is that a load of shit?
Dealer is telling me this is not a safety issue.

thanks for any assist
HBD



I just replaced my ABS control module $242 of course dealer part only. Easy to put in 2 screws and 2 plugs. Little black box located on driver side, under hood, near the brake fluid. Took care of the brake light but made the ABS light flash.

The computer needs to be reset and I tryied taking the battery cables off and it didn't work so I talked to a shop and they said it needs to be reprogramed $140. Dealer wanted a little over $500.

I haven't took the step yet to get it programed yet. Still hoping someone can tell me how to reset it myself.

Hi.
Also new to this forum.
My ABS and Brake lightas are also on.
No codes, but from what I've read here, possible speed sensor or ABS sensor.
Dealer says I have 2 ABS sensors. How do I know which one I need without getting a $100 check up?
I'm also not ready to replace a $1000 module when my brakes work fine.
Thanks.

Hi.
Also new to this forum.
My ABS and Brake lightas are also on.
No codes, but from what I've read here, possible speed sensor or ABS sensor.
Dealer says I have 2 ABS sensors. How do I know which one I need without getting a $100 check up?
I'm also not ready to replace a $1000 module when my brakes work fine.
Thanks.

For vehicles equipped with rear wheel ABS, there is only a sensor on top of the rear differential. If you have all wheel ABS then in addition to the rear diff. sensor, there are sensors for each of the front wheels.

I changed out the rear ABS sensor on my '99 and it didn't work. Dealer insists it's the electronic module under the hood. I finally went ahead and ordered one a couple days ago so I hopefully I will have it in soon. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will actually fix the problem.

Jay

Thanks Jay.
I wonder if it would be worth it to change out the sensor? What did it cost? U.S or Canadian?

Thanks Jay.
I wonder if it would be worth it to change out the sensor? What did it cost? U.S or Canadian?

Rear sensor was about $39 and the electronic module I just ordered was $292 (U.S. dollars).

It seems lots of us are having this same problem... please see my previous post http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=299370

I ordered and received the control module ($289)... and it's on my workbench waiting to be installed as soon as someone tells me what I'll need to do to keep any lights from flashing after it's in. I'm still hoping that someone on this board can post some tips on this.

If there's a tech reading this... you could be a hero here to several folks if you'll chime-in.

I aint goona pay for a module and find out its not what I need.
And I dont really want to go to the dealer and have him say its "probably" this or that.
The D runs fine if I look past the annoying dash lights.
I hope there is a super hero tech reading this.

I have the same problem, it cost me 100.00 to find out.The dealership said when the lights come on your breaks still work fine, its just your ABS don't work. And to be honest I like my breaks more without the ABS. I can stop much faster.

I'd be lucky if it was JUST a control module (for $289) ... I'm told I need a HYDROLIC CONTROL UNIT. Its $1200 for the part and then HAS to be installed and programed by a dealer.
My brakes work OK, but with "NO ABS" ... I did lock'em up and skidded a bit in the rain over the weekend.

Does anybody know if this would be covered under the Connecticut State Law for used cars over $5000 warentee ?
Thanks
HBD


It seems lots of us are having this same problem... please see my previous post http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=299370

I ordered and received the control module ($289)... and it's on my workbench waiting to be installed as soon as someone tells me what I'll need to do to keep any lights from flashing after it's in. I'm still hoping that someone on this board can post some tips on this.

If there's a tech reading this... you could be a hero here to several folks if you'll chime-in.

Just wanted to post an update .....

I finally got around installing the new electronic ABS module and had the dealer reset the light. All is fixed. No more light on the dash and the ABS works great. Total cost was $299 (shipped) for the module and $70 for the dealer to reset the light.

Jay

Jay... Hooray! It's great to see someone finally had success and reported back here....!

One last question, though... anything special I need to know about installing the module? Is it just 4 screws and 2 connectors, or are there any tricky mechanical gyrations I'll have to execute? I'm ok with electrical, but I'm real nervous about touching anything that may screw with the brakes.... :-(

Thanks again for the report!

kludge



Just wanted to post an update .....

I finally got around installing the new electronic ABS module and had the dealer reset the light. All is fixed. No more light on the dash and the ABS works great. Total cost was $299 (shipped) for the module and $70 for the dealer to reset the light.

Jay

The electronic ABS module is very simple to replace. Remove the four torx head screws that hold down the module. There are two connectors on the top of the module that need to be disconnected and a third connector on the bottom that can only be removed when the module is off. That's it!

Hope this helps others who have been experiencing the same problem.

Jay


Jay... Hooray! It's great to see someone finally had success and reported back here....!

One last question, though... anything special I need to know about installing the module? Is it just 4 screws and 2 connectors, or are there any tricky mechanical gyrations I'll have to execute? I'm ok with electrical, but I'm real nervous about touching anything that may screw with the brakes.... :-(

Thanks again for the report!

kludge

Jay... Hooray! It's great to see someone finally had success and reported back here....!

One last question, though... anything special I need to know about installing the module? Is it just 4 screws and 2 connectors, or are there any tricky mechanical gyrations I'll have to execute? I'm ok with electrical, but I'm real nervous about touching anything that may screw with the brakes.... :-(

Thanks again for the report!

kludge

Hi Kludge,
Have you replaced the ABS module yet? My ABS/Brake light comes on after the vehicle warms up. After cool down, the lights stay off. I changed the rear dif. sensor, but no help. Front sensors have 1K ohm resistance so I think they are OK. Only thing it may be now is the module. How did you get the flashing ABS light to go out after the module change?

Regards

Luc... yes, just as Jay indicated (thanks again!) 4 screws, 3 connectors, a 5 minute visit to the dealership, and no more lights...! And, I fibbed and told the service agent that a competitive dealership had installed the module without programming the computer... so he provided the reset for free (i guess to convince me to come there from now on).

Bottom line... my original quote was $580 and leave the D at the dealership all afternoon... and turns out i spent $280, 5 min replacement time, and 5 min dealership time.

Durango Forum = $300 savings. Thanks again to all who chimed in.


Hi Kludge,
Have you replaced the ABS module yet? My ABS/Brake light comes on after the vehicle warms up. After cool down, the lights stay off. I changed the rear dif. sensor, but no help. Front sensors have 1K ohm resistance so I think they are OK. Only thing it may be now is the module. How did you get the flashing ABS light to go out after the module change?

Regards

I have a 98 Durango with either the Kelsey-Hayes EBC310 or the EBC325 abs unit. Brake light and ABS light have been on since March. Dealer quote is $1425. Dealer says there is a "ROM CHECKSOM" error in the ABS Control Module requiring the replacement of that unit and the accumulator at the same time.

I'm pretty sure the accumulator does not need to be replaced. Some of the Kelsey units are tied into the accumulator - but I know mine comes right out of the vehicle separate from the accumulator since I tried it this summer (brake and abs lights went out, but the spedometer and odometer didn't work).

I replaced the rear wheel sensor on top of the differential but it didn't resolve the problem. It sounds like for half of us it is a faulty sensor problem, the rest of us have a problem in the "brains" of the abs unit.

My dealer would not sell me the module. They said it had to be done on site so the speed and computer could be recalibrated. Of course that was also the day I stopped by the dealer right after court still in a suit so chances are they might have a different story for me if I showed up in jeans.

Would someone who successfully ordered the module be willing to post the name of the company they got the module from and the part number - or if it was the dealer your dealer's name. I'd love to get this fixed before the ice hits us in Vermont.

Thanks!

8 years after the last post on this topic and I had the same thing happen to me last night on my 1999 Durango XLT 5.9. Except in addition to the ABS and Brake light coming on , I also had a loud humming/pump noise coming from under the hood near the firewall. The noise continued even after turning off the car.

The car seemed to run OK. When I coasted in neutral I didn't slow down at all , so the brake wasn't being applied and it still worked when I hit the brake pedal too. Phew!

Traced it to the master cylinder area, to what I assume is the ABS control box.

On a side street I got up some speed and then jammed on the brakes to see if I'd lock up the wheels or if I still had ABS and of course SCREECH!

Since it was at night, I was afraid the thing would drain my battery, so when I got home I opened the fuse box and pulled out the 40A ABS/RWAL fuse from the box and the noise stopped.

Then I got back in and test drove the brakes. Seemed to work fine, just no ABS.

So now it's morning and before I call my mechanic I searched online and found this forum here.

Good info and now I'm affraid I'm in store for the more expensive HYDROLIC CONTROL UNIT. Its $1200 that HBD mentioned, rather than just the control module most seemed to have issue with her, as my additional noise symptom sounds like a hydrolic pump stuck 'ON'.

Thanks for the info here, least now I have an idea of what's going on. Hoping for the less expensive fix.