computer update after mods?

ive got a couple mods on my 94 Z28: cold air intake, i blocked off the silencer on the intake elbow, tb bypass, heddman converter, 80 series flowmaster, long tube headers and y-pipe, & hurst shifter, is there any kind of recalibration that would be necessary to tell the computer how much air is actually coming in and out? or is this only necessary over like 450 hp?

umm you should be fine, the factory stock LS/LT sensors are good to like 500 HP. At least the LS1 sensors are

You can get more HP out of your car weather it is stock or mod with a PCM tune...

http://members.nuvox.net/~on.roz/cars/z28/tuning.html

http://www.madz28.com/

will running an lt1's rpms that high like on the background of your website not blow it the hell up? id be way to scared to blow my engine to bits to do that. how much of an advantage can tuning an lt1 be by adjusting the fuel map etc?

you would be surpised at how much a computer tune will change the car... When I had just finished building my motor I brought my car to have it dyno tuned... Before tuning usuing stock tune the car put down 348 RWH after tuning and and getting it the best we could 392 RWH...

you would be surpised at how much a computer tune will change the car... When I had just finished building my motor I brought my car to have it dyno tuned... Before tuning usuing stock tune the car put down 348 RWH after tuning and and getting it the best we could 392 RWH...
wow which computer tuning brand did you use!?

We where using LT1 edit and trust me if my buddy where not there I would have never been able to get it done... He has been tuning mustangs for almost 5 yrs and just started messing with the z28's...

NICE! May I ask where that place would be...or any around PA/MD Boarder?

Also I was told by this mechanic around here that if you put mods on your car...it will blow up your engine because the engine is not calibrated to take the extra air or something?? What's up with that, I know a bunch of people who parts on their car and their not driving around blowing their engines...unless it's their fault...Thanks

I was at a shop in Houston using there Dyno with wideband O2 readings... I could not afford or to better put it will not pay that shops tuner the asking price of the tune... $500 for the tune, $90 for three pulls on the dyno, and an extra $100 an hour for the wide band o2 reading... When that may or may not get me close to what I was looking for… When really all you need is two good pulls on the dyno go back and read the data logs program the pcm an make one last pull to see if there is anywhere else you can improve on... Now realize this is with someone who knows how to read data log very well and tune a car without much room for error so you do not need to keep using the dyno...

You can mod a car without worrying about blowing the motor up... your MAF sensor tells the cpu how much air is coming in to make the correct changes to support it... When you start running into problem with motors blowing up is when you start running NOS or putting a Supercharger on it... You need to change to bigger injectors and tune the cpu for it so you A/F is not off and cause internal problems...

When you start running into problem with motors blowing up is when you start running NOS or putting a Supercharger on it...

I was thinking more on the lines of constant red zone driving. Because I know some idiots around here think that when you put parts on your car, you should rev higher to take "advantage" of the mods. I told them go to the strip and you'll find out its the opposite. Unless they have forged internals...etc. :screwy:

I was thinking more on the lines of constant red zone driving. Because I know some idiots around here think that when you put parts on your car, you should rev higher to take "advantage" of the mods. I told them go to the strip and you'll find out its the opposite. Unless they have forged internals...etc. :screwy:

this is very true, I would never rev my motor more than I know it could take... put the car on a dyno and find out where your max hp, torq range is so you know when to shift or program the cpu to shift, that always says it all...

It would be very nice to have my own dyno, and software. I know I'll be an enthusiast and tuner of cars all my life on a personal scale. But I could have buddies come over and make runs. That would be bad. Probably WAY out of my price range. (K's)

if you are interested in learning to tune your own car this is a cheap and easy way go...
Tuning software:
http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html
you will need the file for your car:
http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/do_tc.html
The aldl cable:
get the good one
http://www.akmcables.com/ic.htm
scanning software:
http://www.akmcables.com/dss.htm
Wide band O2:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm1.php

this all will help anyone willing to tune there own car as well as others for a small price ofcourse...

I guess this is where me not having a lap-top sucks... That is how those work correct?

yea you need either a laptop with as little as a P2 processor and 64mb of ram... You can pick these up pretty cheap now a days... Or you could us a desk top but only if your willing to stroll it outside to your car... But with the desk top you will not be able to record your datalogs that you will need to help out with doing this your self...

But with the desk top you will not be able to record your datalogs that you will need to help out with doing this your self...

Why is that?? OH and P.S. I have NO problem with carrying my computer outside, piece by piece, to aquire more hp, and tq. Also not to mention a very good learning experience. :grinyes:

In order to get data logs you need real time driving on the highway to record whats going on... Or a couple of passes at the track... With a desk top this task is very hard... But even without it you can still tune your car... I started off buying the cable and software just so I could scan my car for codes and not have to pay any shop to do it... This saved me a ton of money alone...