New Car. What next?

First off. Hello. Yes, I am a newbie at this and Yes, I am a female and Yes, I will admit now that I will be inlisting the help of a rotary shop near me. Not dumb enough to try this alone.


I have wanted one of these cars for a while now. Never could get around to finding and buying one. Well, my neighbor has an 81' RX-7 sitting in his yard. I finally asked what he was doing with it and he said it was mine for $150.

No rust. A couple VERY MINOR dents that will be easy to get out. Interior is in great shape except the top of the dash is cracked in front of the driver. Leather seats with no cracks or rips. Gauges are in perfect condition. He used to drive it and then bought another car when the gas hit prices started to climb. It was running fine when he parked it, but he cant get it started now.

I want the car but figured I would at least ask ppl that knew about this car if its worth it. The guy is a complete idoit when it comes to cars. I have fixed his truck more then he has and I dont know very much. :uhoh: I have bought a couple vehicles off him that he said needed major motor work and the longest it took me to get them running was 45 minutes and the most it cost was $78. LOL.

Would you guys buy it? Also, I was looking at some body kits, but it seems like all it does is make it look like a rice burner. Are there any body kits that compliment the car? Or better to leave it as it is?

I know 4x4 not cars, but trucks on 38's just dont handle or have the speed that I love. NO, I am not talking about driving every where at 90MPH.

Do you guys have an prefered mods? Also, am I correct in assuming that I will use just as much fuel in the car as I do the trucks? Not that I mind, just want to know what to expect.

Oh, Are there any mags or good books devoted to the car that I should get?

Thanks so much, Yes, I know that this is long. Jessica

If you want a really good, but kinda expencive mag that has enough parts and accesories to almost make a new one from scratch go here.
http://www.victoriabritish.com/
If I needed the car and didnt mind fixing it up i'd get it. and it gets about 18/24 mpg.

My guess is its flooded. Does it crank over, just not start?

probably flooded too. Too bad its a carb 12A and not a EFI 13B. Unflooding the car will be a little bit harder than a 13B.

Check to see if the car turns first. No start? How long has it been sitting around?

bought a 81 for 900$cnd with unknown engine condition
im dumb but i can do all the work on the car by myself
my first mod was a 13b
can you check out if the car got rear disk brake ?

i say buy it even if the engine is shot

Okay to answer as many questions as I can at the moment......


I will walk over and look for the disc brakes later. I DOUBT it has Disc Brakes.


The car has been sitting for more then a year.

He told me that it cranks but wont start. He also told me that it has a 4-barrel carb.


I will totally honest that I dont know much about this car. LOL. I DO, at least, know that I dont have to worry about pistons :lol2:. Other then that I dont know much. Its a learning experience for me. Now, having said that, the guy told me that it has spark but it has an orange spark and not a blue one. Says its supposed to have a blue spark. I wouldnt know if he is telling the truth are just talking crap.

Thanks for all the help. Thanks, Darkjedi, I had found that site and am planning on getting it. Also, I keep reading that its better to get the shop manual from Mazda itself. True? If so, then I will call them today and order it.

Luckily the shop I found that works on rotary's is willing to teach ME also. I tend not to like mechanics. Like to work on my own stuff.

Why change to a 13b? Better? How? Thanks. Jessica


18/24mpg?? THATS GREAT!!! Most of my trucks and Jeeps only get half that, if I am lucky.

13b will be a bit better, more torquey and more powerfull with more options when considering a rebuilt (bigger choice of rotors compression, easier to turbocharge), but most of em are fuel injected and cost alot to convert to carburation. its less hassle in a FB.
the only difference betwen 12As and 13Bs is 20 mm in lenght. (engine mount location will also vary, but you can always use a 12a front cover on a 13b, pre-86 cars engines are mounted on the front cover.)

Alrighty. Went and checked. The car does NOT have disc brakes.

Also, doesnt this car take a special type of spark plug? He changed the plugs at one point and just got them at Discount Auto Parts.

LOL. I wanted a project, I think I found one.

Jessica

That sounds like a nice project. I am getting a 3rd gen soon.
And I looked at your profile and it says you live in ft. myers. What a coincidence because I live in Cape Coral.
I would like to see updates of what happens with this car.

Alrighty. Went and checked. The car does NOT have disc brakes.

Also, doesnt this car take a special type of spark plug? He changed the plugs at one point and just got them at Discount Auto Parts.

LOL. I wanted a project, I think I found one.

Jessica

check out for OEM sparkplugs of denzo W22EBR/Nippon W22EB

a good upgrade, when the engine will be running, would be to find a GSL rear axle, it has diskbrakes and LSD

you can also swap for a GSL-SE bigger and stronger rear axle, but you'll have to change the front splindles as well because of the different (but more common) bolt pathern. GSL-SE front brake are bigger too.

it cost ~100$ to have a compression test done at a mazda dealership, once the engine is running, have one done.

Fort myers, lmao I live in port charlotte. If you want the best shop manual there is(or that i've ever seen). It has everything in it from top to bottom.
http://www.haynes.com/
once you get it fixed up tell me where your shop is and i'll check it out.

Haynes sucks big time compared to the Factory service manual.
dont get the haynes if you have the choice.

NGK spark plugs are the best in my opinion, you can find them at www.mazdatrix.com along with lots of other stuff

the factory manual owns

the 12A acctually can be a better motor because the porting works better... the 12A has a 4-port and the 13B NA has a 6-port... although if you go 13B-TII then it would be a great choice

anyways, hopefully that helps

the 12A acctually can be a better motor because the porting works better... the 12A has a 4-port and the 13B NA has a 6-port... although if you go 13B-TII then it would be a great choice

anyways, hopefully that helps
its harder/less reliable to squirt 160 hp out of a stock 12a than to swap an s5 engine in.

anyway, best thing is a 4 port 13b n/a :grinyes: with an s5 n/a rotating assembly

Well i drive a Mazda series 2 RX7 (same as yours) it runs a naturally aspirated 13B with a Webber carbuerretor and custom dual exhaust. It makes 160 horsies at the back wheels, which makes for a moderately powerful, lightweight car with sensational handling. And a hell of a fun streeter.

Maybe you could consider looking into something similar?

As for bodykits here is an Australian website that has a list with photos of most of the kits that were made for the first gen RX-7. Just go to this site and click on the "bodykits" button on the left hand side. I like the "ultima" type bodykits personally.

http://www.selectmaz.com.au/main_frame.htm

best thing to have is a OEM targa front airdam, thats it !

gibbsy au, did u dyno the car ? and also, what 13b are you running ? stockport ?

its harder/less reliable to squirt 160 hp out of a stock 12a than to swap an s5 engine in.

anyway, best thing is a 4 port 13b n/a :grinyes: with an s5 n/a rotating assembly

I'm gonna have to disagree that its better to have a 13B 6-port than a 12A 4-port... either works fine

but a 4-port 13B would be better than both true, but a lot harder and would cost a lot more money a well

why would my 4 port 13b cost me more money than a 13b 6 port at the end ?

because you can't just order a 4-port 13B NA, you have to custom fab it

For $150 you'd be a fool not to buy it :)

because you can't just order a 4-port 13B NA, you have to custom fab it

you can find one at a reasonable price, paid 530$us shipped for mine
they dont have to be custom built.

aren't you talking turbo engine, minus the turbo, with NA rotors and such?

maybe its just me but I've never seen anybody sell one like that

no, im not talking about turbo engines,
hardcore oldschool 1974-1975 engines.

"gibbsy au, did u dyno the car ? and also, what 13b are you running ? stockport ?"

yeah dyno'd it. Its an extend port series 4 turbo 13B minus the turbo, With an after market stainless steel dual exhaust, Webber carb and a aftermarket air cleaner.

160rwhp seems like a lot but it makes sense

n/a stock 13B = 85 rwhp

Rebuilt to large extend port = +25 rwhp

Aftermakret exhaust =+rw10hp

Air cleaner = +rw10 hp

Webber carb = +rw30 hp

= 160ish hp'

Drinks fuel like there is no tomorrow though.

no, im not talking about turbo engines,
hardcore oldschool 1974-1975 engines.

ooohhhh I didn't even think about that

everything you said makes way more sense now :)

aren't those kinda hard to come by though?

"gibbsy au, did u dyno the car ? and also, what 13b are you running ? stockport ?"

yeah dyno'd it. Its an extend port series 4 turbo 13B minus the turbo, With an after market stainless steel dual exhaust, Webber carb and a aftermarket air cleaner.

160rwhp seems like a lot but it makes sense

n/a stock 13B = 85 rwhp

Rebuilt to large extend port = +25 rwhp

Aftermakret exhaust =+rw10hp

Air cleaner = +rw10 hp

Webber carb = +rw30 hp

= 160ish hp'

Drinks fuel like there is no tomorrow though.

oh jesus. None of his "honda math" please.

85rwhp? this kid is retarded... you lose roughly 15% of the power not 45% you stain

oh and when you streetport a non-turbo you may get 25 hp if your lucky... but it won't be at the wheels

exhaust +10... ever looked at racing beat? headers out gives what 49-59 hp or something around there

I have never seen an intake give 10hp... MAYBE 8 but 10 is doubtful

and I still don't understand why you would want to switch to carb... *shrug*

mazdatrix exhaust is 28% increasement.

yea mazdatrix and racing beat have almost the same exhaust as far as gains go

myself, i beleive the 160whp. its verry possible with a weber and full exhaust.

I say screw the weber... but thats just me :)

webers rock, jesus padilla did 10.02 runs in 2002 with a 3 barrel weber and a n/a 20b pp, on an almost stock weight FB. he did that in the last 2002 nhra event i beleive, some of the numbers might be wrong a bit, its not that clear in my head, but im quite sure im near

webers rock !

bah... I'll stat FI myself