HOW TO: Make Subframe Connectors
CamaroSSBoy346
07-25-2004, 08:37 PM
So i was sitting in my garage wondering what i could do to my Mustang, then i started flipping pages in my Muscle Mustang And Fast Ford Magazine when i saw an add for SubFrame Connectors. I figured i could try to build them.
Subframe Connectors will work with just about every rear wheel drive car, as long as it doesnt have a ladder style frame. This will work on Mustangs, Camaro's, Datsun's, as long as its a uni-body with a front and rear subframe.
The point of Subframe Connectors are to add more strength to the chassis, to avoid it from twisting in dragracing and even drifting.
So here the how-to...
Start out with sprue from a tree. It should be long, straight and smooth.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_258_full.jpg
It also helps to have one of these baby's around. Makes life a shit load easier. I guess 200 grit sand paper would work too.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_259_full.jpg
Start out by sanding it so it will come out like a square, so start of on 1 side, the keep flipping it over.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_260_full.jpg
By countinously flipping it over it should start to make a square pipe
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_261_full.jpg
If you used a power sande, their will be tiny of melted pieces scattered among the bar. Sand on a 200 grit paper to remove it. BTW If you use the power sander, be careful where you hold it, the plastic becomes VERY hot. I learned the hard way.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_262_full.jpg
When you finished this is what it should look like.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_263_full.jpg
After it has been smoothed out cut the end to be shaped like a wedge, and sand that portion smooth. Also sand the ends so they will fit snugly in the subframes.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_264_full.jpg
Once is been smoothed, you gotta make some bolt holes. All my pin vice bits broke, so i was left to do this the ghetto way.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_265_full.jpg
The cap of this brand superglue has an extremely sharp tip. Pierce the plastic with the needle 4 times. 2 at each end.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_266_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_267_full.jpg
Once the needle holes are made, widen it with your knife
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_268_full.jpg
Then notch out the rear subframe so the subframe connecter will fit in. The near frame rail has been notched and the far one hasnt.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_269_full.jpg
heres the finished project.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_270_full.jpg
NOTE: The following subframe's have been built for the AMT 1988 Mustang GT. The front subframe is virtually flat, that is why i had to put that angled cut on the end. You may not have to do that for other kits. If the front subframe is NOT flat, skip the angled cut, and do a notch cut on the front-like the back.
Subframe Connectors will work with just about every rear wheel drive car, as long as it doesnt have a ladder style frame. This will work on Mustangs, Camaro's, Datsun's, as long as its a uni-body with a front and rear subframe.
The point of Subframe Connectors are to add more strength to the chassis, to avoid it from twisting in dragracing and even drifting.
So here the how-to...
Start out with sprue from a tree. It should be long, straight and smooth.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_258_full.jpg
It also helps to have one of these baby's around. Makes life a shit load easier. I guess 200 grit sand paper would work too.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_259_full.jpg
Start out by sanding it so it will come out like a square, so start of on 1 side, the keep flipping it over.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_260_full.jpg
By countinously flipping it over it should start to make a square pipe
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_261_full.jpg
If you used a power sande, their will be tiny of melted pieces scattered among the bar. Sand on a 200 grit paper to remove it. BTW If you use the power sander, be careful where you hold it, the plastic becomes VERY hot. I learned the hard way.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_262_full.jpg
When you finished this is what it should look like.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_263_full.jpg
After it has been smoothed out cut the end to be shaped like a wedge, and sand that portion smooth. Also sand the ends so they will fit snugly in the subframes.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_264_full.jpg
Once is been smoothed, you gotta make some bolt holes. All my pin vice bits broke, so i was left to do this the ghetto way.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_265_full.jpg
The cap of this brand superglue has an extremely sharp tip. Pierce the plastic with the needle 4 times. 2 at each end.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_266_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_267_full.jpg
Once the needle holes are made, widen it with your knife
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_268_full.jpg
Then notch out the rear subframe so the subframe connecter will fit in. The near frame rail has been notched and the far one hasnt.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_269_full.jpg
heres the finished project.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/5/web/533000-533999/533373_270_full.jpg
NOTE: The following subframe's have been built for the AMT 1988 Mustang GT. The front subframe is virtually flat, that is why i had to put that angled cut on the end. You may not have to do that for other kits. If the front subframe is NOT flat, skip the angled cut, and do a notch cut on the front-like the back.
SchuberT
07-26-2004, 01:00 AM
great tutorial dude! i'll have to try this... btw... here are some other ideas for subframe connectors
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/SF12_installed.jpg
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/SF1C_installed.jpg
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/SF12_installed.jpg
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/SF1C_installed.jpg
dag65
07-26-2004, 11:15 AM
Great idea, but wouldn't it be easier to start with square styrene? Or does the shape vary? Its hard to tell in the photos
CamaroSSBoy346
07-26-2004, 03:18 PM
didnt feel like going to buy square styrene, so i made my own.
tonioseven
07-26-2004, 03:37 PM
Great stuff, Mike!! Added to the HOW-TO section:)
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