Favorite glue?

I know there's already a thread on glue, but I just wanted to know what glue everyone uses...brand and what it's called.


I use Testor's glue in the blue tube. This stuff is terrible. Everything I glue falls off with a slight tap :mad: but it sure ignites like no other :loser:

Tenax-7r is the best in my opinion
http://www.tenax7r.com/products.htm

Testor's liquid glue in the black kite-shaped bottle with the red label.

Bill

Testor's liquid glue in the black kite-shaped bottle with the red label.

Bill

Same here.

I mostly use epoxy. CA glue and I just don't see eye to eye.

When gluing two pieces of styrene together seamlessly, I use Faller Expert styrene cement.

~~ Paul

Testor's liquid glue in the black kite-shaped bottle with the red label.

Bill

I use that too, or Humbrol clear glue

Anyway I always put some glue on a paper then use a small peice to put the paint on the kit.

Humbrol precision poly cement !! (blue bottle with yellow cap)
the precision of glue you can put is simply amazing :)

I use several different glues depending on the application. I use Testors Liquid Cement in the black plastic bottle, Ambroid Pro Weld, and my favorite is Devcon 5 minute epoxy. I use CA for some things but it is not my favorite.

Marc

i usually use the Testors glue in the orange tube

or super glue if its for some thing that no body will see

99% of the time super glue. It's sandable, strong and if applied correctly invisible.

The other 1% of the time testors liquid brush on glue.

Future for photo-etch emblems.

I use the revell glue with a metal nozzle because its all i can get and its cheap too. For clear parts i use humbrol clearfix.

For styrene I use Slaters MekPak. Fast flashing and brutal on platic.

CA wize I use various grades of Xa depending on the job, usually the thick stuff but I also have very thin and non-fogging.

Epoxy wise I have devcon 5 minute, and 6 and 24 hour Arldite.

For glazing I stick with some brand-x 'Cockpit' glue I found in a radio controlled plane shop. It's like very stron white glue that thins with water but dries totally clear. It kinda like a huge bottle of Krytal Klear but way cheaper. I also keep a tub of contact adhesive to hand for BBR's etched metal/flat acetate windows.

Then there's always gloss varnish which I use some time for finishinh peices on bodies.

It's horses for courses really, I don't find that there is one wonder glue that does it all.

i usually use the Testors glue in the orange tube

or super glue if its for some thing that no body will see
that glue in the orange tube is the worse thing you can use lol.

that glue in the orange tube is the worse thing you can use lol.


ok what ever u say

the blue tube takes way too look drying time

the orange still takes a while but is quicker, and ive been using it for aobut 2 years, not only for model cars, but model trains, and some little pieces of art work that i do, never had a problem with it

Glue in tube (like Testor) IS the first way to scrap a model. I stop used it at 13 years old

I've been actually squeezing out the glue onto a surface and used toothpicks to apply the glue. Wasn't much of a problem until I noticed that the glue took too long to dry as supraturner said, and that the bond wasn't strong enough. After reading through your replies I've decided to go out and buy some better glue :D

I will keep the blue tube to use as a log starter though :lol:

^That stuff sure does lite nicely!

I use this stuff by elmers called Hobby & Model glue, it comes in a pretty big tube, and is only like 1.79, waaaay cheaper than testors crap, it sets up in about 30 seconds, and dries overnite! I love it! I'll get a pic up tomorrow or monday if I can.

Ambroid Pro Weld


Murray

I use different glues for different tasks. Cyano-glue, white-glue, Epoxi-glue, semi liquid tube glue and something I buy at the pharmacy (In Sweden) called Ethylacetate that works like Tenax but costs a fraction of thoose professional glues. It's about $15 for one litre and it last a loooooooong time. Most of the time I use the Ethyl stuff as it works splendid and gives a very hard bond. If you have a joint that normally would take some putty to get right, just apply some more Ethyl and keep repeating 'til the jonint is gone and just sand smooth.

Niclas