Front rotors warped AGAIN!!!

Hello. I would like to share a problem and seek advice from all of the auto forum gurus out there. My front brake rotors on my 2000 Chevy Cavalier Z-24 are warping with disgusting regularity. I bought this car used with appox. 47k on it. Afer the first time the brakes warped, I brought the car back to the dealer and had them grind the rotors. Two months later, the warping re-occurred. They ground them again. Again, two months later, the same thing happened - warping. I finally had the Chevy dealer replace the rotors with brand new OEM rotors. Two months later, the brakes warped again. I took the car back to the dealer again. They ground the rotors again, and this time adjusted the rear brakes simultaneously. Two months later, the rotors warped again! Fed up, I took the car to a widely known brake and muffler shop. They said that the dealer should have replaced the pads and the brake caliper hardware due to rusted caliper pins that were causing the pins to bind on the rubber bushings, causing the calipers to stick closed and the pad to cook the rotors. They claimed that nothing was wrong with the calipers, and that the caliper pistons moved fine. I had them replace the rotors, the pads, and the caliper hardware. Once again, the front brakes are warped three months later. I never abuse the brakes in this car. I do travel on the highway daily, and need the brakes to gradually slow to a stop from 65mph. The car tends to glide due to the 4-speed automatic transmission (I can't downshift easliy like you can a standard shift transmisission to reduce brake stress). I always use the brakes gingerly, and never slam on the brakes. I drive a normal amount of miles a year. Could it be the caliper(s)? Should I replace the rotors with pre-drilled and chamferred performance rotors with heavy duty pads, or will this just result in another warpage? Could there be another problem upstream in the brake system somewhere? Someone please..... HELP!!!

Rotors warp for many reasons but you have certainly had your share of problems. Invest in a set of aftermarket rotors that are drilled and slotted. This will allow them to cool faster and also discipate heat and gasses. Purchase a set of premium pads either Performance Friction carbon metallic or ceramic pads at they hold up better. If you have not replaced the calipers recently go buy yourself a set of remanufactured calipers and put them on at the same time. Make sure you have good ventilation to the brakes, air cools them and the more air you can get to the rotors the longer they will last. (An easy way to see if a caliper is sticking is to press the brakes and then let off on the pedal. Then try to move the rotor by hand. If it doesn't turn then the calipers are sticking. Even if they are not sticking consider replacing them anyway.) Finally, do you routinely drive through standing or drive in a lot of rain. Water splashing on hot rotors will cause rotors to warp quickly. If not it is probably a heat problem that the new rotors, pads and calipers will cure. Let me know what happens.

go to this website and talk to this guy, he has a package deal that comes with slotted and drilled rotars, titanium brake pads, and steel braided lines for 159 a set. Many people have bought form him and hes a good guy.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=50&i=4256&t=4256

Rotors warp for many reasons but you have certainly had your share of problems. Invest in a set of aftermarket rotors that are drilled and slotted. This will allow them to cool faster and also discipate heat and gasses. Purchase a set of premium pads either Performance Friction carbon metallic or ceramic pads at they hold up better. If you have not replaced the calipers recently go buy yourself a set of remanufactured calipers and put them on at the same time. Make sure you have good ventilation to the brakes, air cools them and the more air you can get to the rotors the longer they will last. (An easy way to see if a caliper is sticking is to press the brakes and then let off on the pedal. Then try to move the rotor by hand. If it doesn't turn then the calipers are sticking. Even if they are not sticking consider replacing them anyway.) Finally, do you routinely drive through standing or drive in a lot of rain. Water splashing on hot rotors will cause rotors to warp quickly. If not it is probably a heat problem that the new rotors, pads and calipers will cure. Let me know what happens.
Thank you very much for your response, GTP Dad! I will look into doing this.

go to this website and talk to this guy, he has a package deal that comes with slotted and drilled rotars, titanium brake pads, and steel braided lines for 159 a set. Many people have bought form him and hes a good guy.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=50&i=4256&t=4256
I will check these parts out. Thanks, Jayson.

Another thing-Keep your rear brakes adjusted so the fronts are not doing all the @#%&in' work. :D

Another thing-Keep your rear brakes adjusted so the fronts are not doing all the @#%&in' work. :D

Yes, this is a good point. I noticed that the emergency brake engages way high now, and doesn't really hold the car. I know how to turn the star wheels to set the rears, but it seems like the e-brake ends up high after only short lengths of time after adjustment. I wonder if anything can cause the rears to fall out of adjustment prematurely? How often should you have to adjust the rears under normal driving conditions?

Years ago, my new 1997 Cavalier rotors kept warping on me. I had warranty work done twice and they still warped. When the warranty expired, I went out and bought after market rotors, replaced pads, and haven't had any problems with the rotors since.

Last post was from a year ago bro, I think he got it.

I was gona say... don't buy cheap parts. Since this post is old as hell... here is some helpful info... Even when you get work done at the dealership your not always getting what you think your getting done. I work for Advance Auto parts since july, and the local ford dealership, firestone, Minekee', all like to use Wearever silver pads and wearever rotors. Which I will tell you from my experience with them are pure pile of shit. I warped the hell out of the rotors and shot the pads with a Trip and a run around watkins glenn race track. This was only going around the track 3 times, and we weren't allowed above 70mph. I got a pair of rotors and pads for 50 bucks. If you buy anything from advance auto parts brake wise, stick with Bendix or Friction Master ceramic.

Another thing to remember is that with todays cars, the wheels need to be torqued to spec.

Overtightening the lug nuts can warp rotors due to uneven pressure.

Scott