Trouble Starting 2000 Silverado

When I 1st try to turn it over it won't get going, but when I turn the key a second time it fires right up, but sometimes it dies as though there is not enough gas to it, but then it fires right back up and is fine, unless I let it sit for any long periods of time and ten it hassles me to turn over. I just changed the fuel filter and it still does it, when they removed the filter the pressure was at the filter and gas spewed. Has 133000 miles. Fuel pump is loud and has always been loud, no change in noise. When I fill it with gas the light says low fuel, and then when I hit a bump it goes back to full and sometimes back to low again until I have used at least 1/2 a tank of gas and then it reads correctly. Any ideas?

sounds like a fuel pressure regulator on one end and a sending unit on the other.

would the FPR cause it idle poorly? I just replaced the plugs and wires in April, change engine oil every 3000 miles,

It could but if your crankcase sensor is off it will do the same thing. You should have someone test your fuel pressure to see if the rails are being pressurized to the proper range. The regulator should hold the pressure in the rails for startup. You might start just turning the key to the on position for a few seconds to give the system time to pressurize before you try to start it and see if it helps. A loud fuel pump is never a good thing and is a sign that it's worn out but you should have everything checked first just to be sure before you start buying parts.

Ok, we checked the pressure last night and it was good (52 at idle and 60 or so when juiced, but when we shut it down we lost all pressure in it. It didn't hold, is that normal? The mechanic my brother knows said that it might be a Throttle postioning something, but he did not know that it did not hold pressure after shut down. ANy suggestions on that one? Also, I bought this truck brand new 4 years ago and the fuel pump sounds the same today as it did the day I bought it, loud and obnoxious and it has ran for 133,000 miles (I can't complain there) so I don't think it is the fuel pump, the sending unit is definitely a goner, but I will wait and change that when the pump goes out

I went 128,000 miles with one fuel pump It has had 5 pumps in the last 32,000 . 1 carquest 3 delco from bumper to bumper 1 OEM from chevy with 800 miles on it . It doesn't start till I here the noise from the tank . Some times I turn the key on and off up to 10 times before it will start. Once going down the road it died. The pumps were hooked to 12 volt power supply,after removal, to see if the motor ran and all were dead. The shop said the pressure was fine when they test it. I change fuel filters spring and fall. I plan on changing the wiring harness next time I pull a pump. Does anyone know where the fuel pressure regulator is located??

What model year and engine do you have? I had a 99 silverado w/5.3 and the fuel pressure regulator was behind the intake runners for cylinders 7 & 8 in the center of the rear of the engine. It was a large silver device with fuel lines running to it and is pretty easy to spot. If you don't have a ls1 based engine I don't know where it's at.

My pickup is a "97" 5.7 4 wheel drive.

Ok, had the truck in the shop yesterday and had two mechanics look into it. The checked the FPR and it held good pressure. When it shut down the line bled out and there was no pressure in it in about 5 minutes. There conclusion because of that is it is the fuel pump. So I guess we are going to change the fuel pump. How hard is it and how long does it take to do it? Also we found that if you just turn the key a few times and not completey turn it over after about the third time then you turn it over, then it starts right up with NO drag. So anyhow, I am going to dribe it for awhile just around my neighborhood until it quits. My next question is, what if they are wrong and it is my FPR will driving it around hurt my truck in any way?

Well I suppose that if the rails received too much pressure that the injectors could be damaged. The regulator is just that, it keeps a constant regulated pressure to the fuel rails and routes the excess back to the tank. It's also supposed to hold the pressure to the rails when the vehicle is shut down until the fuel pump is reenergized. I would get a second opinion from another person to be sure before you start buying parts only to discover that you haven't solved your problem. I noticed that you said that the pressure was checked at the fpr but did they check the output from the fuel pump? The fuel pump is in the tank and you can either take the bed off or drop the tank to access it. Both are a pita but it's the only way to get to it but dropping the tank is probably the easiest.

I am sorry, but I am a girl, and this automotive stuff is driving me nuts, I know some basic mechanics, but that is just enough to keep from getting totally screwed over. I don't know for sure what they checked at the shop, I was not there. I know when we checked the FPR I was there and saw it. I told them to check it after reading up in here about the problems I am having. How do you check the output from the fuel pump? and what is it supposed to be. The guy who said it was my fuel pump said he just changed out two this week that had the same symptoms. I want to go in somewhat informed so I don't have a big worthless parts and labor bill. This forum has been great for me. Thank you

I can see that you want to learn more and I'd suggest going to the auto parts store and buying a haynes manual for your truck. It has everything about your vehicle in it as well as what specs things are supposed to be at and they don't cost that much. It also has a trouble shooting section to help you narrow down what the cause of certain problems can be. IMHO I believe that you should go ahead and replace the fuel pump anyway because of the noise and mileage on it.

A way to test the FPR (easy way) is to pinch the return line with some vice grips or simular tool. just a little bit at a time, run engine if it runs better with some constriction in the return line, the FPR is probally the problem. This applies to CSFI, the FPR is inside the upper manifold, on fuel metering body. kind of a pain to get at, because all the componets needed to be removed just to get the manifold off. This is a proven method I went through all of this about a year ago. GM mechanic wanted $390 to R & R the FPR. I did it for $40 (cost of FPR, and new manifold gasket)

Do you have to remove the intake manifold to get to theFPR?
I Took the conection out where the wires come through the top of the tank And soldered the wires togather. I put heat shrinks and a rubber electrical 90 degree wire holder so the tank wont leak. I had intermitent
power through the original conection. So far so good but if it gives anymore probs a Holley frame mount pump from summit is going on it.

yes the manifold must be removed to get at the fuel meter body, but only the upper manifold, it's made out of some type of plastic (probally mylar) the lower manifold is the big alumium with the push rods and head intakes, good news is u dont have to mess with the lower manifold. now this only applies to CSFI V8's. not TPI or MFI.TPI is alot easier to access the FPR.

I have found that when it comes to change'n the fuel pump it is easier to pull the bed of the truck off than it is to drop the tank.