No start puzzle 1985 S10

Here is the puzzle, would really appreciate some help. I have a 1985 Blazer 2.8L with carb and mech pump. From what i've read my car was for the California market. as such it doesn't have vacuum advance retard weights. Instead it uses a 7 pin spark control module within the distributor. The car was shut down normally and refueled with 8 gallons and would not start again. After searching around in the engine compartment we saw that one of the primary wires between the external coil and the distributor was burnt as though it was a long fusible link. This might of happened after repeatidly trying to restart the vehicle and may not be the root cause of the no start.

I put in a new coil and a used distributor (which came with unburnt wires of course). Timing was verified by finding the top of #1's compression stroke and pointing the #1 position on the cap to the rotor. I also checked it with a timing gun at crank speed. Engine sounds like it wants to catch. Spark was verified with a light bulb tester on the #1 cylinder. Fuel squirts when i push the accelerator on the carb. What's wrong?

I have not checked the compression but noticed that it only (?) takes about 40ft-lbs to turn the engine by hand. Can lack of compression be ruled ouit for now? I don't want to unnecessarily do a compression test. For that matter I don't want to pull off a valve cover unnecessarily for valve timing verification. I once had a pickup truck (F250) that acted similarly becuase the timing chain had skipped some teeth, but that would be unlikey with this 80k (or could it be 180k) engine? The S10 has not back fired and i think my F150 did after repeated tries with the skipped chain.

Even though the accelerator squirts fuel could the carb cause the problem? I tried some spray starter fuel but the engine barely acted any better so does that rule out a fuel problem? The engine takes some coaxing but eventually sounds like it may catch. As soon as the start key is released it dies.

Thanks in advance for any help.

well if you have fuel and spark i would say the timing is still off.... remember when you line up the distributor and drop it in it the rotor is going to rotate clockwise a little bit due to the gears. try to twist the distributor farther to the right... if you cant go far enough pull it out carefully and turn it ccw one tooth and try again.

I have rotated the distributor quite a bit in both directions and tried to start it. It sounds like it wants to start a little bit more when i advance it to a point. Beyond that point it seems that the starter has more difficulty whipping the engine around, as though the little bit of firing that takes place is working against the engine rotation. I have also used a timing light at crank speed and i know i have the distributor set correctly. Any other suggestions, HELP!!!

well then i would say you put the distributor in 180 degrees off... number 1 not at top dead compression stroke.. pull it out spin it 180 try it again

OK I found the problem. The car has 12V at the coil while cranking therefore it sounds like it wants to take off. as soon as i release the key from the crank position i loose the 12V at the coil. Should I replace the ignition switch or is another test needed to identify the culprit for this?

check all wiring for the distributor and the coil check plug gap put dry gas in gas tank check plug wires for and corrosion in the ends check compression at the spark plug hole the lowest reading is 70% of the highest reading cylinder ( not more than 100 psi ) distributor placement with cap mounting screws at two & eight o'clock number one is at seven o'clock firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6 hope this info helps

When I reach in around the ignition switch and start moving the wires around with the key in the run position i get relays clicking on and off and the 12V coming and leaving the coil. Does that mean i need to replace the ign switch. or is it wires and not the switch?

Changed the ign switch. All is OK now.