Help

Ok i just got my amp im using a 6000 Watt max amp, its bridgble. i Bridged my amp to put out 2000 watts. my sub is 4000 Watts max 2000 Watts RMS. This is my amp http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4950&item=5709611113&rd=1 This is my Sub http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7910078123&category=38647&sspagename=WDVW

The Problem is when i turn it up at about half way the speaker goes crazy it pops out and stopes working. I have the sub wired in Perllel Could some one tell me what is going on with my system. or what i am doing wrong. I have no idea about Ohm or any thing. Please help me.

your sub is suffering from overexcursion, the rib allows the actual driver to travel further than the depth of the voice coil (the voice coil is travelling outside of the magnet and becoming dislodged.)

I've not heard much about Audiobahn, but people on here don't seem to think too much about them.
Do you have any clue how large your box is? is it ported or sealed? I'd recommend a tighter box, that will help with excursion, or getting a little bit better brand name speaker.

"turning it up halfway" means pretty much nothing. There are gain/ sensitivity settings on all of your components. Halfway on the headunit could be 100-200% of max power on the amp (meaning you are clipping/ distorting the crap out of signal from the amp).

My gain is like set at a little bit over 1/4 of the way, i have a ported box, It should be able to Reach insain volumes tho. so how could it be comming out the voice coil. Its not even that loud when i turn it up, When the trunk is open you cant even feel the base hardly it sounds like crap, Would The Ohm load have any thing to do with it.

Where did you get your box? I think that's your issue (not to mention the damage incurred to the speakers now)

well u gotta set the gains right... if your head unit has a v4 preamp out.. then u gotta set your gains at 4v.. also audiobahn is hated at alot of places.. not saying that they are bad... but my friend had a 400rms audiobahn sub.. and a 400rms amp.. he blew the sub like nothing.. gains set right and everything.. i think they overrated their stuff alot

I got the box off of ebay for like 30 dollers this is my box, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50568&item=5710220048&rd=1, Would it be better to have a sealed box. Also i have a nother question when i turn it up, it sounds good inside my car but when you get out of the car and walk like in to the house you can bearly hear it. Is this because of my box i would think. Also what is a good place for the freq nob to be what is the difference. Thanks alot

that box is HUGE!! 2.3 cubes is insane for a 12" (in my humble opinion).
I have 1.2 cubes in a sealed box for my kicker 12" and it thumps hard.
By allowing your speaker all that room to 'breathe', it's not creating any damping effect and allowing your speaker to exceed it's excursion limits.

the manufacture suggest a 2.25 cuft ported box, so i'm not going to say it's your box, your good there. My man, at work, is pushing that same sub and he thinks it's up there with the next coming. so unless it's defective, i wouldn't worry about the sub being the problem.

now we all know that class A amps are not the most efficient, but they earn their keep because of their accuracy, but your amp is a perfect example of the warning in my sig. they use a lot of deceptive advertising, which makes them madd suspect. follow me on this...

#1) they claim it's a 6000 watt amp, but right there on the spec sheet it say the amp only uses (2) 20amp fuses. now according to ohm's law - 40amps x 12vdc = 480 watts. since that's a six channel amp your really getting about 80 watts per channel, 2 channels driven, at .5% thd (and that's audible distortion), even though they're leading consumers to believe it's really 1000 watts x 6 or 6000 total

#2) the next issue i got w/that amp is how can the spec sheet list power output for 2ohms bridged,??? when the wiring diagram say to use 4ohms minimum in bridged mode. that's another deceptive tecnique, listing an output they don't produce for actual use, but could, hypothetically, for a few moments before it turns into a george forman grill.

there's still a lot more issues i noticed right off the bat that i could get into like thd % and how many channels driven, but talking sh?t ain't goin't change nothing, so what you should try is swapping out your amp, for an amp that you know is good, and run a test to see if it really is the amp, then you can go from there...

hahahahahahhaaha
40 amps in fuses on a "6000 watt amp"...hahahahaha

my "25 watt" amp has a 40 amp fuse

Ok so if were to put some wood in to the box to make it smaller, and then wire the sub in Series to make it a 4Ohm Load hypothetically then i could bridge the amp and the sub wont go crazy and pop out realy far and the amp wont shut down and go in to safe mode. Is that the problem that i have the sub wired in Parallel so its going at 2Ohm and the amp cant handle 2Ohms so that is why it pops out then the amp shuts down. mabe that is the problem then cause it works fine when its not bridged. Thanks hope to here some good replys that will help me.

i'm not sure how precise you have to be regarding enclosure volume when it comes to audiobahn subs, but you are within the manufactures specs.
as far as your ports, think about this...if you were playing a horn like a trombone, you will get one sound for making the tubes shorter, and another
sound for making it longer. that's pretty much how a ported box is tuned. so it's important to be precise with the port measurements to get the sound you want.
your box have a slot port, and the audiobahn website only list specs. for round ports. i'm not exactly sure of the formula for calculating and converting rectangular
vent slots tuning freq. to that of the round ports, but that is something to consider as well.
as far as your wiring to your amp, you got a 2ohm dvc sub and an amp that's bridgeable down to a minimum of 4 ohms. use 2 adjoining channels for bridging.
for example...wire the + from channel one on your amp to the + on one side of your sub. then wire the - from channel two on your amp to the - on the other side
of your sub. then connect the remaing + and - from opposite sides of your sub to each other.
this will give your amp a four ohm load, and give your sub between 150 - 200 watts rms using that particular amp.

new box and new amp, i think you'll be happy, and since you have no idea about ohms and shit like that, have one of your friends that knows the stuff help you with the install

ok i wired it in series it works now that was the problem does any one have any clue now how to or what the dementions of my port should be. Thanks

What if i were to put some wood like in the port to make it smaller would that help, Because right now when the base hits its not really a punchy base its more like a vibratey base, you know what i mean. Any comments would be nice on how to get some punchy base out of my sub. Thanks

punch is midbass, not bass ..... you can turn up the crossover frequency to like 90-100 Hz. That may have other bad effects though

ok Thanxs, i think i have it that mutch any ways, What if i were to get a bandpass box does any one thank that would be good, Thaks

Bandpass is more boomy bass than a improperly made ported box like you have

ok then i think i will get a bandpass box. Thanks every one.