How to open trunk when latch bad?

I have a 74 1/2 MGB that the trunk latch has gone bad. Other than drilling out the lock is there any way to get the trunk open.

Also, does anyone know of a remote trunk latch mechanism?

Thanks

There is a way to access the trunk, but not real easy. In my 1980 MGB, I accessed the back wall of the seating compartment. I cut out the center triangular stamped impression, leaving enough material around the inside edge or bottom of the impression to drill holes and install #8 or #10 size slide-on nutclips (used in aircraft). By placing a hole at the three corners and using 2-inch spacing, it works out to be 22 holes. I highly recommend the nutclips because if it happened once, it will probably happen again. With the access opening, a person with a long arm and extension hook can reach the locking mechanism. You can remove the bolts holding the hook or push on the upper part of the latch. Fabricate a triangular panel from aluminum or light gauge steel to fit inside the impression, match drill the holes, paint the panel to match, and secure it with screws to the back wall. A 4" hole will actually work if you don't want to cut a large hole like I did.

I have a 74 1/2 MGB that the trunk latch has gone bad. Other than drilling out the lock is there any way to get the trunk open.

Also, does anyone know of a remote trunk latch mechanism?

Thanks Don't know if you can access these photos, but we'll try.
Drill a hole through the latch as in the photo, slightly to the left.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/PJ161/D-MGB%20old72/P3040003.jpg

Just go through the handle casting like this,
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g273/PJ161/P3040007.jpg

Then take a slightly smaller drill and push it through the hole and against the latch lever. Push in and the latch should release. If the hole is slightly off, get something smaller to push the latch lever inside. The latch will be ruined, but you won't be chopping your car up, as I can't believe some people do! If that trunk back panel has not been previously cut for speakers or whatever, Don't butcher it! It's very important that that panel not be cut if you or someone else ever wanted to put the car back in concourse condition.
I forgot to add, the front panel in the trunk has the "X" brace stamped in to add strength. The panel helps eliminate twisting of the body in that area.

John Twist has a video out now that shows how you can open the trunk without cutting a hole in the back panel or trashing the handle casting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUA-OlW-nK0&feature=channel_page

John Twist has a video out now that shows how you can open the trunk without cutting a hole in the back panel or trashing the handle casting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUA-OlW-nK0&feature=channel_page

That's an old jack handle John used. Sorry, but I wasn't impressed with the video. John wasn't that impressed with him self either. OK it eventually worked and not a bad idea, but if your going to make a demo for all to see, make sure the tool works the way it should. I,ve seen them opened through the tag light wire holes also. Aint easy! There are various ways to prevent this. Like the extra hood cable that comes out under the left front fender in case the regular cable breaks. There's a simular setup for the trunk latch that comes out on the upper left back panel inside the car. It just depends on how far you want to go with this.
It's like putting a bolt on back panel on a safe, just in case you lost the combination. :grinno: