GSR Internal change

Hello ...

I am getting ready to install my GSR into my civic, this weekend. I will be turbocharging it next year also I am planing on using about 12 PSI. I have been debting if I should change the internals now or next year. I am planing on using JE 9:1 pistons and Eagle H rods. I was thinking of change the cams to turbo one. Either crower stage 2 or skunk2 stage 2, not sure which ones would be best with the level of PSI I will be using. For springs and retainers I dont know which ones to get, any suggestions? What else should I cange? Thanks for the advise

Hello ...

I am getting ready to install my GSR into my civic, this weekend. I will be turbocharging it next year also I am planing on using about 12 PSI. I have been debting if I should change the internals now or next year. I am planing on using JE 9:1 pistons and Eagle H rods. I was thinking of change the cams to turbo one. Either crower stage 2 or skunk2 stage 2, not sure which ones would be best with the level of PSI I will be using. For springs and retainers I dont know which ones to get, any suggestions? What else should I cange? Thanks for the advise

Boost means absolutely nothing to determine weather or not you should change out your pistons and rods. 12 psi from a T3/T67 makes a helluva lot more power than 12 psi from a T25. Make a horsepower goal, not boost.

On top of that, GSR cams are fine for turbo, if you have that much money to burn spend it getting your motor sleeved, because it's only going to be about 200 bucks more for sleeves vs. cams, and people are making 600+ horsepower with stock cams. For springs and retainers portflow has a nice spring/retainer package that is affordable at 320 bucks and is high quality. If you want to up the ante a bit, they also sell a ferra spring/retainer kit for about 600.

Also, if you think the GSR rods/pistons are so weak, go check out this.

http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=82

354 on a stock GSR block with a thicker HG/pump gas at 11 psi. Been driving it hard like that for quite a while now.

Well my goal is to get around 600 hp. I was reading about how people made that type of power and they were using 25 PSI. I only want to change the internal components that will not be able to handle the high boost. My car gets only driven during the summer and only on the weekend. What parts should I only change to get that hp.

for 600hp, thats changing everything. you can use the stock crank, you need to ahve the motor sleeved. all internals in the block and head need to be changed. pretty much everything

to make 600hp at 25psi is gonna require alittle increase in the hp of the gsr motor. now this is just a rough estimate but before you boost you will need to have your gsr motor putting out like 220hp so thats an increase of aorund 50hp. thats if you are looking at flywheel, if your talking about whp then its more like 70whp because a gsr motor should make around 150whp

my friend did make close to that power, he made 215whp in his crvtec and did 433whp at 14psi

I had a good feeling that I was going to need to change everything. So before installing the gsr I should get sleeved. What is a good size the have the bores at? Also should I go ahead and change the pistons and rods now and worry about cams and drivetrain next year? I cant afford to do all the changes at once. I am Planning on getting the CM FX600 or the Expedy not sure which one would be best.

Talk to Earl at laskey and have him build you a motor, he'll spec everything out right for your goals.

Also, plan on spending 3 times what you originally budgeted because it isn't going to be cheap.

I had a good feeling that I was going to need to change everything. So before installing the gsr I should get sleeved. What is a good size the have the bores at? Also should I go ahead and change the pistons and rods now and worry about cams and drivetrain next year? I cant afford to do all the changes at once. I am Planning on getting the CM FX600 or the Expedy not sure which one would be best.
im planning on going turbo next year too. although as of now i dont know much about what turbo or turbo brand i would even like to consider. can someone help me out?like what is t3/t4? and 60t. and all that shit. like what pistons, compression i should go with. and i have skunk2s1 cams, can i keep them? or would my stock gsr cams be better? my horsepower goal is 350whp.
what route would you guys go if your whp goal was 350 on b18c1?

im planning on going turbo next year too. although as of now i dont know much about what turbo or turbo brand i would even like to consider. can someone help me out?like what is t3/t4? and 60t. and all that shit. like what pistons, compression i should go with. and i have skunk2s1 cams, can i keep them? or would my stock gsr cams be better? my horsepower goal is 350whp.
what route would you guys go if your whp goal was 350 on b18c1?

T3/T4 means a turbo with a T3 exhaust housing/wheel and a T4 compressor housing/wheel. You can have thousands of different combinations of T3/T4 turbos, so you have to get a lot more specific than just T3/T4 if you're describing a turbo to someone. For 60t i'm going to assume he's talking about a turbo with a 60-trim compressor wheel, probably with a TO4E housing. The most common TO4E compressor wheels are the 50 trim, the 57 trim, and the 60-trim, all supporting in the neighbourhood of 450-500 horsepower.

The skunk2 stage 1 cams are fairly mild, you should be ok with them on a turbo setup but i'm sure you could get some extra cash by selling them and buying GSR or ITR cams. You'll be fine with a good tuner with them though.

For 350 WHP you could run that on stock pistons/rods, etc, but it's fairly cheap insurance and if you have the money for it it's a good idea to upgrade. I would run .5MM over 9:1 pistons; CP, Wiseco, JE, and Arias all make good pistons, along with some eagle rods and a GE blockguard. It's a proven setup that will be very reliable.

arent the stage 1 cams supposedly itr copy's ? if so then no need to sell and get itr cams

if it were me id get the stage 2 cams.

idk if his stock block would handle that, i mean i know of 1 person doing it but he is a tuner adn without like a very very good tune, it would be very easy to blow. i would go with cheap rods and pistons if its only 350hp, stock sleeves should handle as long as you keep your cylinder pressure down and no detenation

luke, resleeving is mandatory is your plan on runnin 600hp, for a bore i would suggest 83mm, experienced racer say 84mm is a good limit for turbo, if you go more the sleeves get thinner and your max hp goes down. having a 83mm bore leaves room for error if you ever melt a pistons you have a few times to bore till you get to 84 so yeah. i would try and save up to do it all at once that way your car isnt down too much and your not wearing out parts and can always change your mind if you so do choose.

arent the stage 1 cams supposedly itr copy's ? if so then no need to sell and get itr cams

if it were me id get the stage 2 cams.


The stage1 cams are a fair bit bigger than ITR cams. 252/249 @ .050 vs. 233/224 @ .050 for ITR cams. The stage2 cams are even bigger with 265/265 @ .050 for duration. More duration will make power to a certain extent, but once you start going over 240-ish you begin to reduce EGT's but a fair amount, which means there's less energy in the exhaust and the turbo will spool slower. For a small turbo going for 350 WHP he would be fine with the stage1's, but going to the stage 2's would be a waste of 800 dollars, because they arn't going to do anything good.

if you want higher egt's just reduce the timing, that will raise your egt's.

getting the stage 2 cams will give him more hp and require less boost to reach his goal of 350whp, maybe stage 2 for the intake and 1 for the exhaust, that would be alittle more ideal.

but i would also up that cr to 9.5 because that will help with the bigger cams, especially since hes only going 350 which means it will still be a street car so he will need alittle power while driving around town out of boost, not implying that 9 to 9.5 is a big difference in power but yeah.

T3/T4 means a turbo with a T3 exhaust housing/wheel and a T4 compressor housing/wheel. You can have thousands of different combinations of T3/T4 turbos, so you have to get a lot more specific than just T3/T4 if you're describing a turbo to someone. For 60t i'm going to assume he's talking about a turbo with a 60-trim compressor wheel, probably with a TO4E housing. The most common TO4E compressor wheels are the 50 trim, the 57 trim, and the 60-trim, all supporting in the neighbourhood of 450-500 horsepower.

The skunk2 stage 1 cams are fairly mild, you should be ok with them on a turbo setup but i'm sure you could get some extra cash by selling them and buying GSR or ITR cams. You'll be fine with a good tuner with them though.

For 350 WHP you could run that on stock pistons/rods, etc, but it's fairly cheap insurance and if you have the money for it it's a good idea to upgrade. I would run .5MM over 9:1 pistons; CP, Wiseco, JE, and Arias all make good pistons, along with some eagle rods and a GE blockguard. It's a proven setup that will be very reliable.
thanx... for trying. but im pretty lost. i dont know where to start when it comes to learning about turbos. all i know is that im getting one fairly soon. lol
just like cars only have a certain amount of hp well i only have a certain amount of IQ. i know a good bit about b-series but i can only learn so much before it becomes to difficult to understand. unfortionatley i will never become a good speller nore will i now how to do my own internal&head work.
anyway, do you think its worth it to save up and get my head port&pollished and 3 angle valve job while changing pistons&rods?
i already have hondata es 200
also what turbo would you reccomend to get me to 350whp+
and how much psi boost would it take to get me there?

i would recommend a t3/t4

probably around 14psi should get you to 350whp

but i remember reading somewhere about someone making 350whp on 11psi on a stock gsr motor. i was trying to find it but i couldnt. sorry

What are the mods that I need to do in order to get atleast 220whp before adding the turbo to gain an additional 300hp?