Need Help With Sound Distortion.

My head unit has an output designed to recognize the subwoofer in my truck but the 4x6's in my rear door panel are hooked up to my head unit also and so they are trying to handle more voltage than they can handle cleanly. I was wondering if I could us some type of voltage requlator or voltage condenser to help solve this problem. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

The only voltage is coming out of the RCAs in the signal. Wattage is what runs the speakers...so what do you mean? There isnt a headunit out there that has too big of voltage for an amp or speakers.

Basic Electricity
Ohm's Law

( I x E = P )
I = Current (measured in amps)
E = Voltage (measured in volts)
P = Power (measured in watts)

It is possible to have too much I/O strength between components, but as far as fixing it you should start with...

Q. are your rear speakers running off of your HU's built in amp or an external amp?

If its HU power, you may have reached the limit for that HU/speaker combo. Even if that's the case you still have optons like resistors, bass blockers, crossovers, etc...

If it's external power, you may need to readjust the input sensitivity (gain) on your amp to match your HU's output voltage (200mv-8v). If you're still getting distortion at 3/4 volume back off of your amplifiers' gains until it clears up.

This should get you started or maybe even fix your problem.

navy is right. the first thing i would do is turn the volume up slowly. u want the volume level to be 3/4 up w/o any distortion. dont just go to 3/4 if the distortion is really bad. u dont want to cause any damage. work your way up to 3/4 at the same time turning the gain down very slowly until the gain is as high it can be with the volume at 3/4 and no distortion.

Ah...Communications Electrician...Thats why the description was good.

(Never trust a manufacture that randomly throw out half of a spec.) what does navy mean with that??? all company produce half the power they say?

(Never trust a manufacture that randomly throw out half of a spec.) what does navy mean with that??? all company produce half the power they say?

that is his sig, which has nothing to do with the question :screwy:

I just sold my last system this past weekend. That was pushed by a JL500/1 and a JL300/4. My system that's being installed right now is going to be powered by a JL1000/1 and a JL300/2. I'm taking some advice from our resident gurus (sr20de4evr, PaulD) and giving up half my highs, but the tradeoff is supposed to be I'm dubbin up on crazy boom. Check out the thread - 'rear speakers' from last week. I'll put up some pics when I get it back.

Hey Mr. Kenwood guy,
I'm Mr. JL guy / Navy. I only f?ck with JL on the power tip because,
not only do you get what they say you get (this is common on higher end sh?t),
but you get it at any load between 1.5 - 4.0 ohms, and any input voltage between 11 - 14.5 vdc.

As far as whassup wit my sig, let me know if you still don't get it.

hmm.. funny so you only mess with jl audio because its true to power would that go for subs and speakers as well???? what companys??

as far as JL, I'm diehard w/power and subs.
I'm pushin 13.5W7's. as far as components:
Alpine, Boston Acoustic
INFINITY (It's what I got)
MB Quart & POLK

I prefer amps that are more dynamic ... means they produce more power at 14.4V and at lower impedances

I learn something everyday

but see, that's what make JL kickass because when other amps lose power as the impedence increase and/or the voltage begin to drop, JL sh?t maintain constant power output.
So if you get a 1000 watts at 1ohm like a lot of other amps do, your going to still get 1000 watts at 2ohms, and at 3ohms, and at 4ohms, like a lot of other amps don't.
The same thing goes for voltage. If your able to get 1000 watts because you got a 14.5 volt system, you'll still be able to get it with an 11 volt system.

How many other amps can put that on their spec sheets?

And, to top it off, whatever the rating on the amp say (nomenclature), that's not max power, like a lot of other amps, that's RMS power

so would there amps work better for subs or speakers????? and one more thing thoses things are very expensive but you get what you pay for

both...they got two lines out right now, the e-line, which i believe is the entry level line, and the slash line, or what i refer to as the truth. their whole lineup can cover pretty much any speaker or sub out right now. but as far as cost go...
...I work, therefore I have

but see, that's what make JL kickass because when other amps lose power as the impedence increase and/or the voltage begin to drop, JL sh?t maintain constant power output.
So if you get a 1000 watts at 1ohm like a lot of other amps do, your going to still get 1000 watts at 2ohms, and at 3ohms, and at 4ohms, like a lot of other amps don't.
The same thing goes for voltage. If your able to get 1000 watts because you got a 14.5 volt system, you'll still be able to get it with an 11 volt system.

How many other amps can put that on their spec sheets?

And, to top it off, whatever the rating on the amp say (nomenclature), that's not max power, like a lot of other amps, that's RMS power

unfortunately, maintaining constant power at any input voltage can absolutely drain your battery dry. Referring to your equations above, if the power draw is constant and the voltage sags - the power supply will respond by drawing more current, which just drains the battery quicker. I never really listen to mine with the car off, so I suppose it really doesn't matter for me. As for the specs, I also appreciate the fact that they are honest about them.

all right whats going on here??? I think its about time we find out who is dishonest about there power ratings I own a kenwood kac 929 amp rated at 1000 wattts max two ch. are they dishonest??? who else would be with amps fosgate,sony;alpine;pioneer??? lets point some finger so they can get with the program!!! like JL