help.....please......

OK! So after i had been modding my muscle machines for long enough, i decided to go with some real models. A few months ago I bought a Tamaiya(sp?) Skyline v-spec and i had ill-fitting parts. I got pissed and smashed the thing after having to mod the control arms, the sway bars, and a brakes just to get the wheels to sit flush good and straight. I put plastic models on the side until recently. I made the mistake of purchasing the SAME model SAME brand. SAME PROBLEMS! cept I delt with it....ended up getting pissed after encountering MORE problems than before. I got pissed and threw it against the wall, breaking it into a million peices. Today was my 18th birthday(the 11th), and for my b-day present, yesterday(the 10th) my girlfriend bought me the Veilside Combat II RX-7. I LOVE this model. I am the worst painter ever though...i cant do detail that much with my bottled paint. She also got me some Testors German Silver in the spray bottle. The paint came out WAAAYYYYY too thick. I ran out of the whole can after giving it 2 coats. I am DETERMINED not to SMASH this model. I have tried a few other colors that I have, which were a Ultra-Flat black, and then a Red. I keep getting bubbles in the paint for some reason. I now have 2 coats of black under 2 coats of red. I am NOT going to get mad. I am going to get the paint off without ruining the details and lines of the body. Will acetone work for this in very-small preportions? I dont want to soak it in the acetone because it will weaken the integrity of the body. Help...please....

haha tomorrow i am going to buy the WRC STi (the brand that comes WITHOUT the rally lights up front) and make it street....somewhat. Dark red candy with gold rims.

p.s. my piss-ass step dads dog ate one of my veilside mirrors so i am stuck with using the stock looking mirrors :/ BOO!

yo man you need 2 calm down first because if you cant finish it without rushing then there is no point in doin it sounds like you got a little rushy on the paint light coats 1 after anothor is what you should do now gettin the paint off use CSC ( castrol super cleaner) soak it i guess until you can push the paint off with a tooth pick but dont rush it and i wish you luck on that STi

That was my problem on the first 2....I rushed. This one i am really trying to take my time. I am doing very light coats and letting them dry for at least 1-2 hours inbetween coats. I got too used to using bondo on my die casts where there was very minnimal work involved...bondo, sand, bondo, sand, seal, paint.

the STi will be amazing...i have big plans.

Aceton is a big no no, it could look good in the moment but it works slowly on plastic and it will destroy it in time. use CSC or brake fluid nothing else. When you spray paint don't push valve and hold but do quick run througs over the bodyand push the valve when starting (a bit of the body) and when you get to other side stop spraying.

Sorry to be off topic, but I'm afraid you should have posted this thread on the Car Modeling Forum, and not into the in progress and finished model section...

You sound like a modifiers guy with the bondo. Ive notice that some of you guys spray way too near to the car. Maby a foot away. ( sorry if this doesnt make sense Im up at 3 in the morning.)

Control your temper for one. Tamiya models are some of the hardest models for newbie model builders, especially for those that are not as competent.

to labonda - sorry, i didnt see any other forums except the completed and in progress - wouldve done it there :D

to skater - bondo seems too heavy for plastic models haha, it was perfect for my die casts

and yea guys i know how to spray...6-12 inches from it with light coats in quick runs. It mightve been just this one bottle, because i was holding it at least 8 inches away and the paint came on looking super thick, but when it dried it looked much thinner and still kept the lines of the doors, hood and lights.

as for the Tamiya, I thought it was me the first time...but after the second model i think there might have been a few defects. I used very light cement wheen glueing peices, i made sure everything looked to spec before i glued, but when it came time to put the control arms on, my wheels kindve poked out at an angle like \. they sat kinda duck footed. the bottom wheel came inwards at the top of the wheel well, and out at the bottom. I havent had any of these problems since i got my Aoshima. I didnt think acetone was a good idea, thats why i was so hesitant to use it...so i asked my fellow AF users what to do first :D. Anyways, i was pretty dumb when it came to the first two, but im really taking my time on the FD. Anyways, i will post finished pictures up when i complete the paint (thats all i have to do left!).

All I can say is that there are great "how to´s" on the net. Especially the painting "how to" on italianhorses.net! If you wanna have great paintjobs just follow that lead. It worked with me... Also, I think, you will need to spend some money on equipment (cans, wax, polish compound).

One last hint. To try to be as good as most of the people are on here, just makes you mad and modeling is a lot about experience. So if you really want to stick with modeling you´ll get better and better.

lol... anger management... one time i was working on my Tamiya 360 Modena and then the wheel broke off the brake thing. then 2 other wheels broke and i didnt smash my model...

and i still want the Tamiya Skyline... i dont care if its not that great.

Yea i got mad at the first two. I broke down and bought that WRC STi i was talking about, and it looks beautiful. Its a dark Candy Apple red. Ill post pics up when i get em, i need to wait for my last coat of the trans. red to try and then i am going to lay on 3 coats of a clear ultra-gloss sealant. I realize that if i want to be good at doing this models, i need to stick with it. and i have. I plan on sticking with it to, this stuff is fun haha. The only thing i really suck at is putting the decals on but im workin on it haha.