spark plug removal

I am changing the spark plugs on my 1999 4.3l chevy s10 pup. Does anyone know how to change spark plug on driver side that is located behind the steering coloumn

I am changing the spark plugs on my 1999 4.3l chevy s10 pup. Does anyone know how to change spark plug on driver side that is located behind the steering coloumn


I have a '94 4.3. It is difficult. I used a sparkplug wrench with a hex fitting at the end that connects to the rachet. Rather than use the ratchet, I used a box end wrench on the sparkplug wrench. It still took half an hour to get the old plug out and the new one in. I did not care if I cracked the ceramic on the old one, but be careful when tightening the new one - it is very easy to crack when using this method.

I actually just changed mine, and what I did was just disconnect the steering column, which allows you to move it out of the way and change the sparks plugs very easy and quickly.

the easiest way to can them is use a swivel on the end of a long exstention

you can get to them from the fenderwell too i think

We went in through the fenderwell on my 95 S10. its a pain but it allows for easier access.

I have a 94' v6 4.3 and I've found the Best and quickest way is to remove the front tires, and go through the fenderwell like JDK2269 metioned. Once you remove the tire, the spark plugs are right there, and very easy to get to, with plenty of room to work with.

I myself jack up the left side under the frame, turn the wheels to the right, and go through the inside fender well. You can get to the back 3 plugs with little to no problem. I also do this for the back plug on the passenger side, but i turn the wheels to the left. This might take a few minutes longer, but it is so much easier.

I actually just changed mine, and what I did was just disconnect the steering column, which allows you to move it out of the way and change the sparks plugs very easy and quickly.
Could you give some details on how to get the steering column out of the way?

With a couple of long extension and a swivel on the plug socket end get it from the wheel well.

Be patient and don't cross thread it!

atomicpulse hit the nail on the head.... you *have* to disconnect the steering shaft..... had to do the same thing on my '93 4.3L. You can leave the shaft hooked up and try swivel adapters, but the chance of a cross thread are too great. It's not that hard to remove the shaft:

Up under the power brake motor is the connector; a single bolt/nut on a pinch clamp. Loosen the bolt and slip the shaft off; you will have to telescope the steering shaft into itself a bit to remove it from the connector.... a little WD40 might be required to loosen the connectors and the slip shaft.

A good Chilton's manual is a handy thing to have when your working on your truck. It will often answer your questions and give you a picture of how to do it.

Good luck...

Mike

No you don't HAVE to.

I did mine without doing that.

Easier to disconnect the intermediate shaft. SImply remove the 11mm bolt at the base, and the shaft telescopes into itself. It's keyes so it really only goes back on one way.

removing the steering shaft is not the best way to do this. have patience-go through the fender well. If you think these are hard to do, just try to change plugs on a V8 S10 with headers. ( Had to make a special box end wrench to do 4 of the plugs)

Easier to just pull the bottom of the intermediate shaft... Kinda hard to mess that up.

why remove steering column or tires when all you need is a swivel? it works trust me. dont make an easy job hard.

Trying to fit a socket and a swivel in there is a pain... (I've worked on so many of these trucks) I can pull the bolt and telescope the intermediate shaft in less than a minute. vs fighting with getting a socket on that plug.

Not really, I tried to find that steering shaft bolt and wasted time trying to get it off. Then I did the socket plus swivel method and had the plug out in about 2 minutes.

You see, you have to look at people doing this like they haven't ever done it. You always assume they have done it many times over like you and therefore you assume it is so easy for everyone.

I know the ZR2s are real easy.I just pulled the rubber flaps out and there were the plugs.Didn't have to move anything esle and didn't need a swivel.

That's rare as even the zr2's have the same problem unless it has a body lift. Check www.zr2.com and do a search, you'll see plenty of complaints

That's rare as even the zr2's have the same problem unless it has a body lift. Check www.zr2.com and do a search, you'll see plenty of complaints
I did it this past fall and it was easy as soon as I took the rubber flaps out of the way.As a matter of fact it took longer to get those rubber flaps back on than to change the plugs.Mine has no body lift either so I don't understand what the bitch is about on the ZR2s.

The only reason I disconnected the steering shaft is because I tried every other way just could not get the middle spark plug out my steering shaft ran right past the middle spark plug and close enough to it that I could not even get a socket over the spark plug.

Get a lady with patience and small hands. Even then, it is best to go through the wheel well with an open ended wrench on just the socket. I prefered the socket with the rubber ring to grab and hold the plug. Of course, it was hard to find one around here that I havent removed the ring from. Usually, those rings cause me more grief then anything else. But with patience, small hands and open ended wrench, it took me about 25 minutes to remove and replace.

Cynthia

It must be different on different vehicles. There was NO way ujoints and extensions would work for me. I did try every combination but no go.

I ended up using a bicycle hub flatwrench with my sparkplug socket. Note that it was very hard getting the plug threaded back in. You SHOULD DEFINETELY buy a single plug boot from an auto parts store to help with beginning the threading.

i did the steering rod trick on my 96 blazer. i didnt think i was going to get the new plug started right without doing this. on my kids 97 s-10 i had enuf room w/o taking it apart. going in from the fender on both.

ok so what is the easy way?????

Take it to a garage and have someone else do it for you! LOL

Take it to a garage and have someone else do it for you! LOL
Good answer! :lol2:

the best way is to just remove the steering column, i did it on my 97 when i was puting a new header on, it is only one bolt. the bolt is at the the bottom where it ties in to the rack n pinion, there is a plastic casing around it, just loosen it up and it will slide right up and out, its just splined on

you can reach the third one on the drivers side using a 1/4 in extension. I change mine every 3 months

you can reach the third one on the drivers side using a 1/4 in extension. I change mine every 3 months

Why would you change your spark plugs every 3 mos? They usually aren't due for 30-40k or more, are you putting 10-15k on your truck per month? :eek7:

I Cant Believe Nobody Does It The Way I Do I Have 2 95"s And There Is No Way A Socket Or Wrench Can Get Past The Shaft Try This-- Take A Floor Jack And A Block Of Wood And Jack Up The Drivers Side Front Corner Of The Trans Pan Very Easy There Is Just Enough Of Flex In The Motor Mount To Raise The Plug Above The Shaft Then Go In With Spark Plug Socket Swivel And Long Extention Through Wheel Well

Do You Have Some Sort Of Problem That Forces You To Capitalise The First Letter In Every Word.

Just stop doing that, makes it very awkward to read.

it is kinda awkward isnt it,lol.
3 pages on a single spark plug. it is kinda neat all the ideas and things you can or have to do this for just one plug. i bet a 350 in there would be a major pain.

I put about 400mi.a day. on my truck. The middle plug isnt hard to replace at all. Last summer i installed my third new engine.In my 95 s10.Better than a car payment

I think we learned that all S-10s aren't the same?

you definately dont have to remove the shaft. if you put a spark plug socket on the plug first then go through the wheel well with a long extension you can get the extension on about half way. turn the plug enough just to get it loose then remove the extension and socket and attach a piece of fuel line on the plug to turn it out. this is the easiest way i found to do it.

Why doesn't anyone want to remove the shaft?

Not removing the shaft is like using the bathroom without pulling your pants down....it will work, but it is a shitty way to do it. :evillol:

Why doesn't anyone want to remove the shaft?

Not removing the shaft is like using the bathroom without pulling your pants down....it will work, but it is a shitty way to do it. :evillol:

I agree, only take a couple of mins to pull that bolt and collapse the shaft into itself... The fact that it's keyed makes things that much easier. On every 4.3 I've worked on I've never managed to get a socket on there...On every one I just remove the drive shaft...

Now, I don't know if my '95 has the same setup as this guy but here is what I do (it works, its easy, and it doesn't take long at all). Go in through the wheel well, jacking the truck up does help to give more room. You will see the steering shaft right there with a rubber boot (mine is red) right where the spark plug is, push this boot up. Now a flat spot in the shaft is exposed so make sure the shaft is rotated so the flat spot faces the plug. Stick the spark plug wrench on the spark plug (I take the rubber out of my wrench for this plug and you will see why in a min.) and then put the socket wrench on, you can use a box end wrench if you like. Once the spark plug is loose take off the wrench and socket, then unscrew the spark plug by hand. Reverse to put the new one on. This way you don't have to remove anything but the spark plug.

Why doesn't anyone want to remove the shaft?

Not removing the shaft is like using the bathroom without pulling your pants down....it will work, but it is a shitty way to do it. :evillol:

Because....nobody likes the SHAFT. LOL

I could not resist.
Ive never had a problem with this and Ive had my truck for 14 years.

Swivel Spark Plug Socket ( not spark plug socket and a swivel socket )Double Extension Entering The Wheelwell Opening. Reinstalling With Fuel or Vaccume Hose.

OK heres one more way to change the spark plug if you dont want to use a swivel or remove the steering shaft. 1st remove hood 2nd remove fender and inner fender and all components that are attached. 3rd if not able to get to the plugs yet, break out the torches start cutting things off until job is made easier 4th if you still cant get to the plugs easy enough remove motor. LOL!!! There are many ways to do this job guys,(girls) to each his own!!! Whatever works for you is obviously the best way!

If you remove the hood and fender.....the shaft will still be in the way. :)

If you remove the hood and fender.....the shaft will still be in the way. :)

That's where the torch comes into play..

it was a NIGHTMARE without removing the shaft. wish I knew this before!

Once I delved into my S-10, I found it extremely easy to do. Jack up either side front wheel for the side you are working on, remove wheel.
Pull aside the middle section of the mudflap under the fender.
Pull plug wires and replace plugs.
For the drivers side #3 plug, behind the steering shaft, I used a wobble extension NOT a swivel joint, as it did not fit. A wobble extension gives you about 15-20 degrees of flex at the socket end, can be found at most stores like lowes, harbor freight, etc.
This was all that was needed to remove the #3 plug WITHOUT removing the steering shaft.

Now the plastic distributor base is another story altogether, one of the screw tabs on mine broke, I used some scrap metal, a few screws to mount it to the base, a longer hold down screw, bleah! Got it tied down though, running smooth as butter now.