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Please help a blonde - stalling 1990 Lumina


Meika
07-07-2004, 06:57 PM
Recently my boyfriend changed the starter on my car which of course involved disconnecting the battery. He also noticed the coolant was low and added some, not sure what kind yet but it was straight coolant with no water added. I noticed in my owner's manual that it should be mixed 50/50 with water.

Anyways since the repair the car has been starting great but is not idling properly and will actually stall while idled or when driving very slow such as in a parking lot. When the car is first starting the engine seems to rev much higher than it used to before the repair. Could this have something to do with disconnecting the battery to install the starter? Or, could it have something to do with the coolant that was added? Any suggestions would help since Mr. Fix It says he doesn't know and doesn't think the problem is related to any work he did....which doesn't matter, I just want the stalling to stop.

tblake
07-07-2004, 11:24 PM
The car's computer or ECM stores parameters that keeps the car running smoothly. When the battery was disconnected, the codes in the ECM were lost. Have I confused you? I would suggest driving the car how it is for a while to allow the ECM to "relearn" is parameters. Maybe take it on a long 45 mile journey. I remember reading somewhere that my old '90 lumina needed to be driven for (I believe it said) 45 miles should the battery ever be disconnected. Also you might want to try and idle relearn procedure, which can be found all over the net. I dont have a link right off the top of my head. Good luck.

Meika
07-08-2004, 06:32 PM
Thanks for the help, geesh all these ppl who have looked at my post and only you replied. I will look into the battery thing, the car has been on several long trips and seems to be getting a little better but its really frustrating when it stalls out unexpectedly.

300+
07-08-2004, 07:15 PM
Like most people, I think, we don't post unless we think we know the answer. Topping off with water antifreeze or any combo won't matter. You can read the jug for best ratio for your situation 70/30 for example best freeze protection. Buy a $2 tester at Wal Mart or auto store and check the coolant mix in the vehicle to be sure it is correct. These problems seem to happen by coincidence to other actions, don't assume they are always related or you can get on the wrong track.
Try to see when it happens, hot, cold weather or engine temp. Does it happen with mileage, does it start right up. When restarted is it better or same etc.
Check plug wires are all connected, vacuum lines all connected. These types of things can get disturbed during maintenace.
Let us know if it improves after relearn and maybe we will give it another stab.

Decebal
07-09-2004, 07:11 AM
He might have hit your coil pack and cracked one of them, check the coil pack which is three plastic things with two numbers on each numbering 1 through 6.
Also check the ignition wires because he might have nocked one out accidentally and a lumina running on 5 cylinders is not a happy car. It will run but not well.

There are some other things but they get very complicated.
Try these if i dont work, i will think of something else.

goldwinger
07-09-2004, 07:40 AM
If I were you I would check all of the things suggested here. My moneys on tblake, I know when my 92 has the battery disconnected it takes 3,4 somtimes 5 weeks of driving to have it re set the idle. In my case it does not seem to be distance related but more time related. Good luck

Meika
07-09-2004, 10:00 AM
Thanks!! I'm gonna do the battery thing this w/e. I know for sure that there aren't any hoses or plug wires loose so that can be ruled out.

Meika
07-12-2004, 07:07 PM
Ok I did the idle relearn and have had all the above checked. A friend of mine who is kind of handy with cars thinks it may be the O2 sensor??? Is that an expensive fix?? Anyways its still stalling unpredictably, sometimes after the car is warmed up, sometimes soon after a trip is started, yesterday it stalled while braking going down a steep hill within a town. Except for the hill, the stall has always happened while stopped or very near to a stop.

tblake
07-13-2004, 12:54 AM
I dont think it sounds like a faulty O2 sensor. Maybe. I dont think so though. They usually run around 40 bux. I would actually check for any vacuum leaks. Thats more of what it sounds like to me. Check all your hoses, and replace any that are cracked, or melted, or cut, and make sure all connectios are tight.

Meika
07-13-2004, 06:56 AM
Hmmm thanks, I'll check the hoses again. I also forgot to mention that when I have the air on, not the air conditioning, but just cold air on it seems to idle better and stall less.

Decebal
07-14-2004, 07:56 AM
Did u check your EGR?
When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

Meika
07-14-2004, 10:53 AM
Not sure what an EGR is.....fuel filter is just a month or so old.

Kooterskkar
07-15-2004, 02:23 AM
That almost sounds like the classic TCC symptoms. Car stalls when very near to a stop or right when you stop.
BUT... it could also be a vacuum leak or bad IAC valve. What engine do you have in that car? 3.1 v6?
The older GMs were easy to do an idle relearn on. You disonnect the bettery for about ten minutes so the ECM will forget all it knows. Reconnect it and start the car. If it dies start it again. It should adjust to stay running the second time. Let the car idle until the fan cuts on and off two times. It should have figured out a good idle by then.
Has the service engine light ever come on while the car was still running since it started doing this?

Meika
07-15-2004, 08:53 PM
Engine is a 3.1 V6. The idle relearn was done last weekend and the car has been driven about 120km since with one stalling experience while going down a steep hill. The boyfriend thinks possible vacuum hose and we are gonna check them out again. The engine light has never come on. The car does not seem to stall for short trips around the city. Its usually after being on a highway then having to stop at a stop sign or traffic light. If I have to stop but can then get going quick then it doesn't usually stall but if I have to stay stopped for a bit then it stalls, other than the hill experience. When I first start the car the engine usually revs up really high too, higher than usual and sometimes the car will stall first thing if I put it into reverse to say back out of a parking space.

I still find it very strange that this stalling began after we installed the new starter. This car was my grandmother's car and she gave it to me. The car has never had a history of stalling. It seems like too much of a coincidence that this began after the install of the starter. Perhaps more time is needed for the relearn like goldwinger said. I dunno I am definitely no car expert but am looking for advice of things that I or my boyfriend can check out and rule out before taking the car to the shop. I don't have alot of cash to give to a mechanic. :o)

pcosmasc
07-16-2004, 10:10 AM
My lumina used to rev really high. When i started it. It was a loose air hose. Sorry i can't be more definite of its precise purpose. But it was just about on top in the middle part and accessible. I put a clamp around it and the rev stopped. However the difference might be that i could not drive my car at all until the rev was fixed. It would not move. But that is all it was, a loose hose.

98Lumina
07-16-2004, 03:15 PM
How many rotations is it idling at?

Kooterskkar
07-17-2004, 01:12 PM
The 3.1 is just like the 2.8 in my car. Same engine really just a slightly larger displacement.

That kinda sounds like the IAC is goin bad. What you could do, that may help. Take off the intake plenum (tha big aluminum part on top that says 3.1MPFI on it) and throttle body, and clean them out really well. Get as much of the black gunk and carbon out as you can. You will need a few new gaskets when you do this. Stop by a dealer and pick up the intake plenum gaskets and throttle body gasket. I wouldnt get them from someplace like advance they sell cheap gaskets that dont seal very well. Bad seals mean air leaks, air leaks = bad.

fopu
01-08-2005, 11:21 PM
Don't jump to replace parts. It might not be necessary. I experienced the same problem twice in the past five years and in both situations it was because of the carbon built-up in the throtle body. All you have to do is this: loosen the duct between the air filter casing and the TB and then remove it. Also, remove the IAC (it has only two screws. Make sure you don't lose them). Spray some carburator cleaner into the TB (both through the air intake and IAC passage) and then wipe it off with a clean rag. Also clean the IAC tip if it's dirty. Put everything back together. Since you removed the air duct, try to check if the air filter looks OK. If not, replace it. It's only a few bucks.

A higher idle soon after you start is usually OK. It shouldn't act like this more than 20-30 seconds and it shouldn't go over 1300 rpm. If it goes up to 2500 rpm, then the ECM may be your problem (been there) or even a vacuum leak.

mlw35405
01-09-2005, 08:36 AM
um, this post has been DEAD for 6 MONTHS!

fopu
01-09-2005, 09:48 AM
um, this post has been DEAD for 6 MONTHS!

I know, but I wrote it for whoever is interested in this particular problem.

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