question: art on car
Rtuned
07-07-2004, 12:15 PM
I would like to know some question on airbrush art on cars and bikes fuel tank. It may sound stupid to ask, I'm new into this and actually would like to use airbrush art to apply onto scale plastic model cars, but the doubt came in. So for those professional out there, please help me on this.
1- Does 'House of color ', 'AlsaCorp-SpectraFX and Crazer', '1-shot', 'Createx Color' eat through plastic when spayed on and can it be dilute with hobby thinner?
2- Does 'Tip Top Finishes' Urethane clearcoat and primer eat through plastic and make decals winkler? What thinner to dilute it?
3- I know pinstrip artist brushes are different from what we modelers used, but where can I order it?
4- I came across this website called 'coastairbrush.com'. Does anyone know any of the colors, clears and primers could be ship outside State? I lived in Singapore.
Thanks for the help...
Best Regard,
Rtuned
1- Does 'House of color ', 'AlsaCorp-SpectraFX and Crazer', '1-shot', 'Createx Color' eat through plastic when spayed on and can it be dilute with hobby thinner?
2- Does 'Tip Top Finishes' Urethane clearcoat and primer eat through plastic and make decals winkler? What thinner to dilute it?
3- I know pinstrip artist brushes are different from what we modelers used, but where can I order it?
4- I came across this website called 'coastairbrush.com'. Does anyone know any of the colors, clears and primers could be ship outside State? I lived in Singapore.
Thanks for the help...
Best Regard,
Rtuned
mike@af
07-07-2004, 01:01 PM
Well I am an airbrush artist as well automotive painter and I can answer a few of your questions. I will divide them into two categories, models, and real.
Models:
1. I use HoK, PPG, and Dupont on real stuff. However I have seen people use HoK on models, as well as the DuPont Variprime. HoK colors have special reducers (similar to thinners, but the chemical make up is different, thins the paint while keeping cure time relatively slow, and so on). Depending on the paint/primer you will need a certain reducer usually (i.e. PPG Duracryl 426 paint needs to be reduced with PPG Duracryl 105 Reducer). If you are worried about the eating of plastic test it on some scrap.
2. I suggest trying out Future floor wax to clear coat if you are worried about the decals, I have heard that works.
3. Pinstripe brushes are much different than regular brushes. The pinstriping brushes have about 2-1/2" to 3" bristles with a short 3" handle. There are different types of brushes for different applications. The most commonly used brush is called a sword brush. For products check www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com)
4. No idea...sorry.
Real:
When reducing paints make sure to use the correct reducer. Certain paints have certain reducers as I stated above. The worst thing to do is cross breed. That can result in horrible adhesion, as well as bad finishes.
Another tip about real painting, stick with the same type (i.e. acrylic-urethane base, use acrylic-urethane clear, or other acrylic-urethane layers.) as well as the same brand (i.e. HoK surfacer/primer with HoK base, and HoK clear) all the way through.
General tips:
Be careful what primers you shoot through an airbrush. Dont try to shoot high build primers (i.e. PPG K36 High Build, PPG K38 High Build) through an airbrush, and that also goes for epoxy primers. The general rule for that is to try to avoid using any two part (catalyst and base) primers, surfacers, or paints. They can clog up the airbrush, or if they arent cleaned properly they are impossible to get out.
Always test. Thats it, whenever your trying something new, test it on some scrap.
If you need anything else just let me know.
Models:
1. I use HoK, PPG, and Dupont on real stuff. However I have seen people use HoK on models, as well as the DuPont Variprime. HoK colors have special reducers (similar to thinners, but the chemical make up is different, thins the paint while keeping cure time relatively slow, and so on). Depending on the paint/primer you will need a certain reducer usually (i.e. PPG Duracryl 426 paint needs to be reduced with PPG Duracryl 105 Reducer). If you are worried about the eating of plastic test it on some scrap.
2. I suggest trying out Future floor wax to clear coat if you are worried about the decals, I have heard that works.
3. Pinstripe brushes are much different than regular brushes. The pinstriping brushes have about 2-1/2" to 3" bristles with a short 3" handle. There are different types of brushes for different applications. The most commonly used brush is called a sword brush. For products check www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com)
4. No idea...sorry.
Real:
When reducing paints make sure to use the correct reducer. Certain paints have certain reducers as I stated above. The worst thing to do is cross breed. That can result in horrible adhesion, as well as bad finishes.
Another tip about real painting, stick with the same type (i.e. acrylic-urethane base, use acrylic-urethane clear, or other acrylic-urethane layers.) as well as the same brand (i.e. HoK surfacer/primer with HoK base, and HoK clear) all the way through.
General tips:
Be careful what primers you shoot through an airbrush. Dont try to shoot high build primers (i.e. PPG K36 High Build, PPG K38 High Build) through an airbrush, and that also goes for epoxy primers. The general rule for that is to try to avoid using any two part (catalyst and base) primers, surfacers, or paints. They can clog up the airbrush, or if they arent cleaned properly they are impossible to get out.
Always test. Thats it, whenever your trying something new, test it on some scrap.
If you need anything else just let me know.
KustmAce
07-07-2004, 01:22 PM
I was just gonna say that^
tokes99
07-07-2004, 04:48 PM
I did not know you were an airbrush artist, gtmike? I got a bunch of questions for you, maybe another time though.
As for the question, i remember this guy saying that you should only use automotive paint on automotive paint.
why someone use automotive type paint on a plastic model? Isn't hobby acrylic or enamel paint any good?
As for the question, i remember this guy saying that you should only use automotive paint on automotive paint.
why someone use automotive type paint on a plastic model? Isn't hobby acrylic or enamel paint any good?
mike@af
07-07-2004, 09:56 PM
I did not know you were an airbrush artist, gtmike? I got a bunch of questions for you, maybe another time though.
Ask away. I am an airbrush artist, a little bit of pinstriping, as well as all out automotive painting.
As for the question, i remember this guy saying that you should only use automotive paint on automotive paint.
Correct. Dont shoot some high quality base of some cheap ass cheapo primer.
why someone use automotive type paint on a plastic model? Isn't hobby acrylic or enamel paint any good?
Because we can. I prefer auto paint because I am not limited to one type of color application, and I use auto paint on other stuff as well and may happen to have some scrap.
Ask away. I am an airbrush artist, a little bit of pinstriping, as well as all out automotive painting.
As for the question, i remember this guy saying that you should only use automotive paint on automotive paint.
Correct. Dont shoot some high quality base of some cheap ass cheapo primer.
why someone use automotive type paint on a plastic model? Isn't hobby acrylic or enamel paint any good?
Because we can. I prefer auto paint because I am not limited to one type of color application, and I use auto paint on other stuff as well and may happen to have some scrap.
Rtuned
07-08-2004, 11:56 AM
I'm pretty blur right after reading your text, but thanks. I think I need time to slowly absorb it :p When I got any questions, I come back to you again.
Thank you,
Rtuned :smile:
Thank you,
Rtuned :smile:
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