update!!!....completed b20 swap w/pictures

I've been receiving a bunch of emails and PM's inquiring about the progress and wanting to see pictures of the swap in my CRX i did last month.
Well, I've had the swap done for over a month now but i've been to lazy/busy to post the pictures.... In the last month I've gotten tons of sh*t for the REX. A 2.5 inch exhaust put on, a JDM Integra Type-R 4-1 header, a 2.5 inch catco cat, a B&M fuel pressure gauge, a B&M commandflo FPR, Pirelli P8000 Drago tires, and the crx si seats. Next is the cams and Safc...which won't be long because I spend $250/week on this car.

For those who don't know, to make a long story short, I was piecing together the parts for my swap and just as I had everything together, I smashed up the front end on my 4g hatchback. Well, I said F-it and went out and bought a CRX with a blown D15B2 in it for $400. I always wanted a CRX anyway. I ripped the motor out on a tuesday, put in the B20b on wednesday, and was driving it Thursday. That's how fast the swap went. My hatchback got fixed and sold for $400 (extremely cheap since it had a complete MPFI swap w/ si tranny, crx dash, si seats, and WW RS kit). But, I just wanted to get rid of it...couldn't afford two cars on insurance.

Anyway, the CRX did have it's problems when i first bought it like totally shredded seats, cracked windshield, hood cable broken, hatch cable broken, no key to open hatch, black primered hood (i think they were tryin to make it look like a CF hood), cut off exhaust (so it was loud...), chrome wheels, painted interior, broken interior pieces...and on and on and on.
I replace EVERYTHING I just listed there with new stock pieces except the hood and windshield.
This car was totally riced out...painted valve cover (without even removing it!!!) there was paint on the exhaust manifold, head, intake manifold, injectors, and sensors...blahhhh...stuped ricers. Dragon seat covers, There was a short, short, I mean SHORT ram intake...lol and strobes in the headlights. Blue, white, and red wire loom all over the engine bay. All of the strobes and neons were tapped into all the factory fuses so half those were blown. The first day was spent ripping out the old motor and removing all of the "RICE"... which piled about 3 feet high when it was all removed....

anyways herez the pix i snapped with my boiz camera phone:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186b20.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186b202.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186b203.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186back.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186delsolwheels.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186exhaust.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186piping.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186primehood.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186side.jpg


http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=503/57186siseats.jpg


BTW: the car runs magnificently and runs smoothly without any check engine light. It does run slightly lean with a 1.8 ecu on a 2.0, but the S-AFC will take care of that. Also, It does lack topend power but that was expected....especially with the 90 integra Exhaust manifold AKA the most restrictive b-series manifold on the earth. The header and The 404 crower cams should also help gain more top-end.
All in all i'm very happy with the swap and my current setup. I don't have any trouble beatin' b16 crx's through 3rd gear...I take off on them so much and so hard...but they catch up with my lack of topend power...I mean come on, I'm shifting at 5500k and they're shifting at over 8000k and I' still beat them for like the first 10 seconds of the race...and they catch up at the very end....but that will be corrected soon with the cams. Also keep in mind that I'm doing this with only an intake and exhaust....and they are fully bolt-on modded!!! I've yet to race a b16 with my new header, cat, and FPR...I should be able to beat them now. Not too bad for a non-vtec motor.

Haven't decided if i'm going Non-vtec all motor, turbo, or vtec...but going non-vtec for now...

thnx for the update :) nice pics!

nice...are u gonna keep the exterior stock?

Very nice. What will you be able to rev to after you get your cams and safc in?

yeah...I'm keeping the interior and exterior stock...I'm goin' true sleeper style that's the point with the black wheels. I'm gonna lower it 2 inches and that's it for the exterior...just repaintin' it the stock red color. I really want to keep this car clean.

As for the revs...the ecu i have now (PR4) tachs out at around 7k RPM. When i get the cams I'll raise my rev limiter to 7500k or so. The cams are more important to raise my power curve from 4000k-5500k to 5000k to 7000k, than to add more peak power.

so now, is a not v-tec engine better then v-tec engine, after lots of mods???

your ride is sweet! :thumbsup:

car looks awesome man, that thing cam around quick

Yah...I've only had it for about a month and already I've bought the car, dropped in the motor, got a ITR header, exhaust, cat, B&M FPR and gauge, Pirelli tires, Si seats, swapped the wheels and brakes from my hatch....and next doin the cams and safc...
it sure is nice makin 1,300 amonth and not havin' any bills 'cept the cell phone.

damn... i make about 2 g's a month, but i live on my own and have a shit load of bills and school and all sorts of money going out

I've actually rethought my plans. I'm definitely going to do a vtec head swap. But that won't be for months. I take my time and research EVERYTHING and buy EVERY part I need before I do any swap. That's why my engine swap took me less than 48 hrs to finish because I spent 2 months "researching" and buying evert little component, part and bolt I needed to do the swap.

Anyway...I'm thinking about going with the GSR head...MAYBE the Type-R head. But definitely not a B16 head...unless I can come across a CTR one. But, if anyone on here knows me, they know that when I say i'm gonna buy something or "DO" something I "DO" it...unlike many people who "WANT" to get something for their car.
My car WILL be vtec by 2005.

Hey dude, I was thinking if you're going to get a VTEC head by 2005 (less than 7 months) why don't you get a V-AFC? Do you think it makes any difference? I know they've got a couple different gens out now? I've been trying to keep up with your progress and even your little debate with SiZ on that other post about your B20 set up, and you say you have lots of torque/power under 5500 rpms then you lose it. If you get a VTEC head and tune it with whatever ECU/dizzy combo along with the S or V-AFC, I'm curious to know what kind of power you will get from that set up. Like how high to you expect to get the rpms up to? You're thinking GSR or Type-R head right? I'm guessing your set up will be sorta like an s2000 only FWD. One thing though, I've heard that it's better (more reliable) to get a block that was originally set up for vtec. Is that really true (like boring/sleeving a GSR block to 2.0)? The reason why I ask is cuz my D series won't last forever (hope so though) and maybe someday I'll get 4g hatch and put a 2.0 vtec in it. If and when it can be tuned to 200+ whp all motor then that is an awesome automobile.

oh yeah... what's the compression of your b20? Will you build up bottom end hc with vtec or keep cr low with vtec and go turbo?

the compression on my B20 is 9.2:1
Most people know that there are 2 B20s... the one with 8.8 and one with 9.6 compression. But i got a rarer one that most people don't know about. I'll have to drop it for a vtec head or strengthen it to handle the high compression.