Home made MBC (manual boost controller)
EclipseRST
07-02-2004, 07:52 PM
well my AVC-R took a shit on my today as i was setting everything for the stock motor i had to put in... i think something shorted out on me :banghead: so i went to the hardware store in search of some parts to make a MBC! :naughty: well after searching a few places and not wanting to use a focet nozzle or a hose nozzle cause thats just ghetto i ran into these parts at a local Daniels Ace Hardware :lol2:
#1 = $2.79
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/102895boostcontroller2.JPG
#2 = $0.37ea...
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/102895boostcontroller1.JPG
and i pressure tested it to 175psi :lol: cause thats all the higher my air compressor goes! and in the end it looks like this!
All complete = $3.76 after tax... :biggrin: beat that! :rofl:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/102895boostcontroller.JPG
#1 = $2.79
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/102895boostcontroller2.JPG
#2 = $0.37ea...
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/102895boostcontroller1.JPG
and i pressure tested it to 175psi :lol: cause thats all the higher my air compressor goes! and in the end it looks like this!
All complete = $3.76 after tax... :biggrin: beat that! :rofl:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/102895boostcontroller.JPG
RiceRocket18
07-02-2004, 07:57 PM
nice dude!!.. looks like you have a lot of time in your hands. LOL
Chavez408
07-02-2004, 08:02 PM
:lol: :lol: :lol: thats PRICELESS!!!!!
get it? "price...LESS" = $ 3.76
ah shit, nvm then.
get it? "price...LESS" = $ 3.76
ah shit, nvm then.
BoostedSpyder
07-02-2004, 08:35 PM
don't forget some plumbers tape!
JoeWagon
07-02-2004, 08:48 PM
I put a dime into a cigarette lighter because I thought it would get really hot, but actually it just shorted out the dash light fuse. It was dissapointing. :( I assume you did something similar to your AVCR?
joemathews
07-02-2004, 09:12 PM
Nice dude, let us know how it works! Are you sure that screw-bar thing at the top will hold solidly enough to be set at a certain boost?
10.5sec92AWDTALON
07-02-2004, 09:59 PM
Hey if that's a needle valve it'll probably be fairly precise for adjusting.
EclipseRST
07-03-2004, 12:35 AM
i was fucking around with it and i can turn it 7 full times before its completely open and completely closed so i set my compressor valve at 25psi and hooked it up to it puting the boost gauge hose on one side so i could monitor it and the compressor hose on the other and about every 1/4 to 1/2 turn it lets out about 1 psi! so i think it works pretty good!
joemathews
07-03-2004, 12:49 AM
Well gee Jake, you won't get to use it if you never get your cars running again ;)
What a poor excuse for a mechanic! :D
What a poor excuse for a mechanic! :D
DSMDude
07-03-2004, 01:21 AM
do u think the thing will stay solid when you turn it to where you want it? like the spring does in most mbc's. also does like a bolt just close in in side of it or is it needle valve or wut?
ryan
ryan
pr0
07-03-2004, 01:33 AM
:l !
JoeWagon
07-03-2004, 02:05 AM
:l !
...the hell kind of post is this?
...the hell kind of post is this?
EclipseRST
07-03-2004, 02:07 AM
its just like a needle valve
gstclips
07-03-2004, 05:17 AM
lol nice work Jake...see what happens when you live in bum fuck no where...u sit at home and make boost controllers. J/P see you sunday its gonna be a great party!.....make sure you make one of those puppies for me.
96TSi
07-03-2004, 05:22 AM
thats exactly how i made mine. exact valve. good 1/4 turn and you get your boost 1psi
oh, comepletly off topic here, please explain the RST in your name. im a bit confused. PM would be better to keep this thread on topic :D
oh, comepletly off topic here, please explain the RST in your name. im a bit confused. PM would be better to keep this thread on topic :D
Killa_DSM
07-03-2004, 06:55 AM
1stGenRocks
07-03-2004, 02:55 PM
the rst is cuz he has a RS which is nt stock that he turboed so its a RST(urbo)
96TSi
07-03-2004, 04:34 PM
ahh.. thanx for the clarification
EclipseRST
07-04-2004, 11:23 AM
well great fuckin news... got my car done today after working on it for 2 days straight with no sleep i got it done! took it out for a cruise this morning at 6:30am.... no bumper, no hood and only the downpipe on for exhaust! i was really itchin to drive it!!! :biggrin: (wake up neighbors) but anyways i was driving and it felt kinda hesitant on the turbo so i pulled over to adjust the MBC and see how it was holding together then i get back in a take off... it was much better!!! then i slowed down again to a stop so i could launch it and try to get a good run in... well i hit 2nd and nothing! bogged way down then just stopped... got out and looked under the car and there was oil dripping from where the drain plug should be! walked back to my shop and got on my crotch rocket and went to see if anything was in the road from where i came from... well i found a good half a mile of oil and no plug, so i think i toasted that motor... hopefully not! i am goin back out in about 30mins to pull the oil pan and see what the outcome is! i hope its not bad! this car is just eating my money like no other!!! who knows... i'll update when i get home later this afternoon! :(
kjewer1
07-04-2004, 05:37 PM
Holy crap! That sucks. I'll tell you a story since I just pulled my motor friday. When I drain all the fluids, I put the drain plugs back in and torque them to spec (~25 lbs) before I even take the motor/tranny out. This when when I put it back together I dont have to worry about forgetting to tighten it up.
Even if the motor survived, which is unlikely, the turbo cant be in good shape either since it spins much faster.
Even if the motor survived, which is unlikely, the turbo cant be in good shape either since it spins much faster.
joemathews
07-04-2004, 11:13 PM
Let me add another horror story to the "broken dsm thread" that used to be about MBCs :(...
So my car was having the overheating problem and we checked the water pump and it was fine, so we put everything back together. Well, the first time my buddy timed the engine and assured me he did it right...I don't know as much about cars as he does, so I trusted him. The car didn't start. DupetoE came over the next day and helped us time it right. Turns out the timing was 180* off. As far as I've heard, that almost assuredly will bend valves.
Well, we got the car running with Dupe's help, and it idles and revs like a dream. However, like I said before when you drive it around in gear, the car starts vibrating and shaking like someone learning to drive stick! I thought maybe we had the timing off a little, or maybe the oil pump sprocket wasn't lined up, because it runs on the same shaft as the balance shaft pulley.
I retimed the engine myself (alone this time, without Brian to fuck the timing up 180* DAMN HONDA OWNERS), and I am POSITIVE the oil pump sprocket, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket were all aligned properly. The car still shakes like crazy and will barely accelerate. I don't know if I have bent valves or what, or wtf my problem is. I have no clue what to do with the car now.
Maybe this thread will scare off a few potential dsm owners!
So my car was having the overheating problem and we checked the water pump and it was fine, so we put everything back together. Well, the first time my buddy timed the engine and assured me he did it right...I don't know as much about cars as he does, so I trusted him. The car didn't start. DupetoE came over the next day and helped us time it right. Turns out the timing was 180* off. As far as I've heard, that almost assuredly will bend valves.
Well, we got the car running with Dupe's help, and it idles and revs like a dream. However, like I said before when you drive it around in gear, the car starts vibrating and shaking like someone learning to drive stick! I thought maybe we had the timing off a little, or maybe the oil pump sprocket wasn't lined up, because it runs on the same shaft as the balance shaft pulley.
I retimed the engine myself (alone this time, without Brian to fuck the timing up 180* DAMN HONDA OWNERS), and I am POSITIVE the oil pump sprocket, cam sprockets, and crank sprocket were all aligned properly. The car still shakes like crazy and will barely accelerate. I don't know if I have bent valves or what, or wtf my problem is. I have no clue what to do with the car now.
Maybe this thread will scare off a few potential dsm owners!
RiceRocket18
07-05-2004, 12:25 AM
JAKE!!!.. WHAT THE HELL DID I JUST TELL YOU!!.. stop going around and breaking your car!! :chair:
best of luck man!
best of luck man!
EclipseRST
07-05-2004, 02:27 AM
well i got somewhat lucky! it was only the cams in the head that were seised and not allowing the cam gears to turn! so basically i need a new head cause it grooved the channel the cam sits in... only 1 place that it was grooved so maybe i can get that turn... oh well i'll figure it out tomorrow but fuck am i tired so i am off to bed!
EclipseRST
07-05-2004, 11:34 PM
today was a awesome fucking day!!! went to work on my are and pulled the cams off to find out exactly what went wrong... well 1 channel on each cam was siesed causing it not to spin! well a buddy of mine is a machineist and he came over with some fuckin tool that looked kinda like a dremel and and went to work on it so it is now smooth!!! put my set of cams in... set timing and she fired right up!!! well i am so happy but i gotta go to work... peace out guys!
kjewer1
07-06-2004, 01:51 AM
well a buddy of mine is a machineist and he came over with some fuckin tool that looked kinda like a dremel and and went to work on it so it is now smooth!!!
This cant be right. The tolerance between the cam journal and the bore is pretty tight. You are supposed to cut the cam caps, then bore a new hole all teh way down. This puts the cam closer to the the head. Hope that makes sense. I'm not sure I would expect the above mentioned fix to last too long, I would try to pick up a spare head and have it rebuilt int ehbackground. Then swap it in, and rebuild this one, and sell it. IOr keep it as a spare.
This cant be right. The tolerance between the cam journal and the bore is pretty tight. You are supposed to cut the cam caps, then bore a new hole all teh way down. This puts the cam closer to the the head. Hope that makes sense. I'm not sure I would expect the above mentioned fix to last too long, I would try to pick up a spare head and have it rebuilt int ehbackground. Then swap it in, and rebuild this one, and sell it. IOr keep it as a spare.
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