Those dang calipers --need help--

So I noticed the truck getting a little bumpy when i'm slowing down. I'm no idiot, i figure its gotta be the rotors. No problem, I'll take em off and get these things turned. Simple right?
Everything was going fine until i got to the bolts holding the calipers on. I tried everything and i just cant get those things to move. Anyone have any advice they could give me?
Also, some fella at a repair shop said that i'd need to get a bolt off the axle and it was an entirely envolved process. My repair book says all i have to do is unfasten these bolts and the caliper oughta fall right down. Anyone have any insight for me?
By the way. This is a 5.3 99 silverado z71 Thanks!

BIG A#@ CHEATER BAR. They are tight. They will come right off after that. No bolt.

i would try using a torch or something similar to heat them with, you dont wanna break them and have to buy a new caliper assembly

BIG A#@ CHEATER BAR. They are tight. They will come right off after that. No bolt.

ZAKLEE!! thats what i used. a BF cheater pipe on a half inch drive ratchet.(didnt have a breaker bar,so i scrounged a almost shot ratchet)

i just got thru with this whole business on my 99/5.3L

new rotors and pads.

those caliper bolts for the pads were tight,also. the torx ones:banghead:

My 99/5.3 had never been change, so after 80,000 they were well needed. It took alot and even now when I go to work on them, it takes alot, those are under a great deal of pressure and get bound up very quickly and very tight.

I'm having the same problem, have tried heat, PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, and still broke a 1/2 inch breaker bar. The impact won't budge them, next step trying 3/4 drive with a big pipe on the end. Thank god for lifetime tool warranties. What a pain in the ass.

I just finished this job and boy am I glad. I used a ratchet/socket setup and then put about a 4 foot pipe over the ratchet handle. It was still tough but they did come out. All in all, I broke two ratchets and cracked one socket. Not a job I want to do again anytime soon. ALso, make sure you replace the front pad metal cip slides. I didn't at first cause the Bendix pads didn't come with em and the squeal was deafening. I then put Raybestos pads on which came with the new hardware slides and no more noise. Good luck!!! :2cents:

Tried removing them on a 2000 with 70,000 on it, they are TIGHT. Those bolts have some kind of sealer or thread lock on them as well. You'll see it on the threads when you get them out. And yeah they're a bitch to break free. To make it easier turn the wheels so that the back of the caliper is kind of exposed more (turn left to do the right wheel, right to do the left). I managed to break them free with a ratchet and a hammer. A pipe or breaker bar should work as well. Use a craftsman rachet so if/when you break it you can just take it back and get a new one. :)