1992 Mighty max engine problems

My Truck a 92 Mighty max 2.4 4 cylinder cuts off right after it is started. It runs for like a second then cuts off. I believe it is the fuel filter or the fuel pump. I am going to check it out today if anyone has any ideas of what it could be please let me know. :sly:

my eclipse is doing the same thing so i replaced my fuel filter and it didnt help,but i would check your coumpter,i pulled mine and it dont look good, so check the coumpter maybe that will be your problem.

Yeah I think it is the computer. I have to find a new one localy cuz it would take too long to order it online. Thanks for the help. :naughty:

I own a 92 2.4. How many miles on yours Curiousone? Could be fuel delivery problem,vacuum leak or ignition problem. I would focus on these areas first however it couldnt hurt to check for ECU error codes. Easy to do on this model so why not?

If you are overdue on the fuel filter, every 30,000 miles, I would start with it. Check throttle body bolts, also every 30k, if they are loose a vacuum leak will result. Check all engine electrical and ignition connections. Make sure they are not damaged and are properly connected. Take a close look under the hood at all vaccum lines for damage or disconnect. Use good lighting.

If you need more specific info just ask. I will try my best to help you.

ok there is no power going from the distributer to the spark plugs. But there is power going to the distributer. How do I check EcU Errors?? I am looking at buying a new distributer but I don't know what to get the site that I am doing my pricing on says there a the whole distributer, a core, cap, and rotor. I don't know which one to get. The whole distrubter with the core is about $241.19 for Beck/Arnley and $329.79 for an A1 Cardone part. There is a big diff in price for the same part. I am not sure what exactly to get just yet. Do you know of any tests that can be run to aid me in my search??? Thank you very much for you time and effort :grinno:

This link will show you how to access ECU codes:
http://www.troublecodes.net/mitsu/
You will need an analog voltmeter. Let me know what you find.

No spark at plugs, but is there spark at the coil wire?

yeah we just changed the plugs. I will check out the ECU and let you know. Thanks.

Ok I looked at the link you gave me and I have a question. Whats the diff between "Without OBD-II" test and "ECI voltmeter or Test Light"? I will let you know the results when I do the test. Thanks.

The link gives info for different models and years. Instructions and illustration(terminal 1 and 12) at top of the page are applicable to the 92 pickup.

"Without OBD-II" This is the code chart you need to use. Gives codes for OBD-I equipped vehicles.

"ECI voltmeter or Test Light" This is not applicable to your vehicle.

"ok there is no power going from the distributer to the spark plugs. But there is power going to the distributer." How did you determine this?

How does your cap and rotor look? How many miles on vehicle?

ok the mileage is 125k. I have a voltmeter with a dcv, acv, dca, and ohms settings. I have no idea what setting to put it on to do the test. I followed the directions on the website that you gave me and nothing happend on any of the settings. I put the red (positvie) in the number 1 slot with the fuse in and I put the black (neg) in the number 12 slot with the fuse it. There was no response from the voltmeter. I know the meter works cuz when I touch the to leads together while haveing the meter on ohms the needle jumps to 2 ohms. I am at a loss as to what to do?? I would really like to get this test done. As for the Distributer core and cap they are fine. There are not any cracks or damage to ethier of them. I guess I am haveing mental issues with the voltmeter grrr. :banghead: any help would be very helpfull.

I ment to say rotor not the core. It looks fine. We used a test light to determine that there was power going to the distributer but not the plugs.

ok I was trying to plug the voltmeter into the fuse box lol so now I will try the right dlc terminal.

ok I used the Voltmeter and the needle went all the way to the right and just stayed there.

Make sure the meter is set to read 12 volts dc.
Follow the directions:
Turn ignition switch to OFF position
Locate Data Link Connector (DLC), next to fuse box.
Connect voltmeter positive lead to DLC terminal #1 and Negative lead to terminal #12 (ground).
Turn Ignition switch to ON position.
codes are read out by 12 volt pulses of voltmeter.
A constant repetition of short pulses is normal.
Signals will appear on voltmeter a long and short 12 volt pulses.
long pulses represent tens
short pulses represent ones (4 long pulses and 3 short pulses indicates code 43)

Read and follow the directions. Let me know what happens.

Your test light tells you that you have 12 volts present. What I want to know is do you have SPARK. Do you know how to check for SPARK at the coil wire and at the plugs?

Question: When the engine dies can you start it back up right away or does it just crank without starting?

I followed the directions but still the needle jumps to the far right and stays there. Here are the setting for the voltmeter OHMS rx1k, DCV 10 50 250 500, ACV 500 250 50, DCA 250m 50m, BAT 1.5Vaa 9v 1.5vbutton. Thats all I have to chose from on the voltmeter. As for your question "Do you know how to check for SPARK at the coil wire and at the plugs?" Um nope I don't have a clue.
And when the engine dies it usually doesn't start when trying to crank it. But I have had it start once or twice. Thats about it. Right now the truck is sitting at a friends house cuz I broke down right across the street from him. I got lucky with that one. As for the ECU test the #12 slot that is the ground the wire comeing out of the DLC is black but there is a connection on # 11 that is green. The #1 slot wire is yellow. I don't know if that tells you any thing or not

Set your meter on DCV 50. You have the correct wires,1 yellow 12 black ground. I found it easier to touch the wires on the back of the connector than to try and touch the pins on the front. If your meter probes will not fit in the back you can purchchase adapters or make your own out of a paper clip.

If you can afford it I strongly suggest you purchase a manual. It will be worth its weight in gold.

I will give the DCV 50 a try and let you know what happends. Thanks for your help. Actually I don't have a manual, So I will have to find one.

Curiousone,

I think the DCV50 setting on your meter may be too high to read the sweeps. Try DCV10 instead. I hope I am not confusing you. Sorry man. I go in for surgery tommorow so my thoughts are a little scattered right now.

Thanks
Bill

ok I'll try that one to. What surgery are you haveing preformed? I'll be praying for ya.

Thanks. Nothing too serious. 6 weeks ago I accidently cut off part of a finger. They sewed it back on but the bone is not fusing together, it was mangled, rather than a nice clean cut so tommorow they will cut off about half of the finger. I get real nervous around doctors and needles so I am already dreading tommorow.

Good luck with your Mitsu. If you have a good library nearby they may have a manual for your truck. If not you can pick up a Chiltons Pro or Haynes for about $15.

My gut reaction is that you have a Crank Angle sensor or its circuit that is failing but it could be several other things. The only way to know for sure is to troubleshoot. If it is a sensor or related circuit you should get a code. If not than you go back to basics, fuel, spark, compression. Gotta have them all at the right time for it to run.

I will check back in a couple days to see if you have posted anything. In the meantime good luck and be safe.

Bill

ok I tried it on dvc 10 and the needle when to 20 ohms and just sat there for like 20 seconds and slowly and I mean very slowly moved to the right to about 10 ohms and then it stopped. Thats all it did. Well I hope your surgery goes well. My dad had sorta the same thing happen to him he flattened his ring and pinky finger in a hydrolic press. He lost the bone in both finger tips but the nerves and the nail grew back. Well let me know how every thing goes. I will check out the manuals if I can find one.

Curiousone,

Surgery went fine. I dont know what to say about your Dads injury except OUCH!!!!!! Learn from our mistakes and please be careful.

"ok I tried it on dvc 10 and the needle when to 20 ohms and just sat there for like 20 seconds and slowly and I mean very slowly moved to the right to about 10 ohms and then it stopped."
Hmmmmmm. How is the battery? Is it weak? Does the vehicle crank slowly? Have you tried reading it on the DVC 50 setting? My meter has a DVC15 setting which I use so I am not sure on yours.

Some auto parts stores will rent you a code reader for a small fee plus a deposit. You may want to go this route if you are finding it difficult to pull the codes. You can probably purchase a simple code reader for about $25 but if your like me money is always in short supply so $25 is a lot to spend. Im just throwing out ideas.

Bill

Glad to hear that you are doing well. Hope they gave you some nice cloud 9 drugs. lol Actually I tried it one two voltmeters. I tried both on dvc50. One had dbc 10 which I tried and the other had dvc15 which I also tried. They both did about the same thing hung around 20 Ohms. It sounds like I am going to have to buy a code reader b/c for some reason the voltmeters aren't not doing it for me. They are both a few years old an may require new batteries. I will change them out or might just get the code reader. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for your help!!!! Hope you sleep well and don't roll over on to your finger lol. Ouch!!

i have a 92 mighty max that did almost the same. it was the head gasket.and timing .

hello, dont listen to anybody but, me my truck was doing the same thing. Does it sound like a belt is squeeling? if not, it will... Ok, listen your problem is very easy to fix and it will cost you about $15.00. Ok, go down to the local mitsu dealership and give them 15 dollars and tell them to order a pulley for the water pump. this is your problem...your pulley is either very weak or almost gone. The pulley for the water pump only has one job, to rotate your water pump, duh.. but, since its failing your water isnt being properlly converted to your engine causing a back up into the radiator and running the engine with little water can KILL your engine. take my advice