Checking the Tranny fluid level
samijo
06-28-2004, 05:23 PM
I recently purchased my daughter a 98 Rodeo. It is jerking when shifting. We have tried to check the fluid but find no dipstick. I am usually pretty self sufficient when it comes to routine maintenance on my vehicles, tune ups, oil changes, etc., but I have ever seen a vehicle without a dipstick for the tranny. Of course, since I purchased it used there is no owners manual. HELP!!!!
surferfletch
06-28-2004, 05:31 PM
There are two plugs on the bottom of the tranny pan. You drain with the bottom plug and you fill with th upper plug (toward the rear of the pan). It's full when, with the tranny warm and engine idling in neutral, fluid starts coming back out the fill hole. Makes for a messy job, even with a hand pump.
amigo-2k
06-28-2004, 05:32 PM
If you do not know the flush history of the tranny go get it flushed:
Here is some information I found:
faulty range sensor?
I've had a problem with hard shifting on-and-off for over a year. It usually happens only in the morning, and is always after the dash light fails to indicate that the truck is in drive. I had the codes read at a dealer last June, and got back a P0705 code. Is this the range sensor malfunction? If so, any recommendations on what needs to be done and where to get it looked at?
I had the same problem with my 99 Passport. I was able to remove my range sensor, take it apart and clean the contacts inside. I remember it was quite dirty and greasy inside. I think they used too much dielectric grease in it, but the contacts were definitely dirty so I cleaned them reassembled it and I have never had the problem come back. The unit is located on the side of the transmission (drivers side) just forward of center. It's been well over a year since I fixed it, but if I remember right to remove it there was a small metal shield that pops off. Then I had to remove 2 bolts and 1 nut that holds the shifter arm and unplug the wire harness (the wire harness was a little difficult to unplug due to the tight space) and the unit will just slide right out. You will need a torx driver to take apart the unit. I wiped most of the grease out of mine; I left some of the grease there so things will slide properly and to keep moisture out. Depending on how dirty the contacts are you can clean them with a pencil eraser or a very, very fine sand paper. Don't spend the 90+ dollars for a new one this is a fairly easy fix, once you see the inside you won't think it's worth the price tag! It should take you about 45-60 min to repair.
I hope this helps you out, good luck!
Here is some information I found:
faulty range sensor?
I've had a problem with hard shifting on-and-off for over a year. It usually happens only in the morning, and is always after the dash light fails to indicate that the truck is in drive. I had the codes read at a dealer last June, and got back a P0705 code. Is this the range sensor malfunction? If so, any recommendations on what needs to be done and where to get it looked at?
I had the same problem with my 99 Passport. I was able to remove my range sensor, take it apart and clean the contacts inside. I remember it was quite dirty and greasy inside. I think they used too much dielectric grease in it, but the contacts were definitely dirty so I cleaned them reassembled it and I have never had the problem come back. The unit is located on the side of the transmission (drivers side) just forward of center. It's been well over a year since I fixed it, but if I remember right to remove it there was a small metal shield that pops off. Then I had to remove 2 bolts and 1 nut that holds the shifter arm and unplug the wire harness (the wire harness was a little difficult to unplug due to the tight space) and the unit will just slide right out. You will need a torx driver to take apart the unit. I wiped most of the grease out of mine; I left some of the grease there so things will slide properly and to keep moisture out. Depending on how dirty the contacts are you can clean them with a pencil eraser or a very, very fine sand paper. Don't spend the 90+ dollars for a new one this is a fairly easy fix, once you see the inside you won't think it's worth the price tag! It should take you about 45-60 min to repair.
I hope this helps you out, good luck!
amigo-2k
06-28-2004, 05:33 PM
http://www.geocities.com/endre_rl/isuzufaq.htm#faq7
I have transmission problems ( ECU code: P1870).
I have not read many posts on problems with the transmissions on the 98-03 Isuzu's. Some common problems are that the tranny feels like it is slipping or it is shifting funny. Many times this is due the a weak charging system (battery that is dieing, or the alternator is on the way out) or the electrical connection to the tranny is loose and dirty.
As for changing the tranny fluid, some are for flushing and others think that dropping the pan is the best way. If you only drop the pan you will only be removing about 40% of the fluid, whereas the flush will pretty much replace all of the fluid. There is a filter in the pan that should be replace at some point (your guess is as good as mine, but some have mentioned a 60-90K interval to replace the filter, but always change the fluid at least every 30K or sooner if you only do a partial fluid swap). Fluid is cheap, but a new tranny costs about 3500 bucks, keep up on your tranny maintance.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=178005&highlight=code
How do I check the fluid level on my Tranny?
On the 1998-2004 (except Direct inject engines) the transmission is a sealed unit and doesn't have a dipstick. To check it the truck should be warmed up but not excessively hot. With the e-brake on an the wheels blocked, start the engine, place your shifter in neutral, remove the upper fill plug on the transmission and the fluid should just dribble out.
I have transmission problems ( ECU code: P1870).
I have not read many posts on problems with the transmissions on the 98-03 Isuzu's. Some common problems are that the tranny feels like it is slipping or it is shifting funny. Many times this is due the a weak charging system (battery that is dieing, or the alternator is on the way out) or the electrical connection to the tranny is loose and dirty.
As for changing the tranny fluid, some are for flushing and others think that dropping the pan is the best way. If you only drop the pan you will only be removing about 40% of the fluid, whereas the flush will pretty much replace all of the fluid. There is a filter in the pan that should be replace at some point (your guess is as good as mine, but some have mentioned a 60-90K interval to replace the filter, but always change the fluid at least every 30K or sooner if you only do a partial fluid swap). Fluid is cheap, but a new tranny costs about 3500 bucks, keep up on your tranny maintance.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=178005&highlight=code
How do I check the fluid level on my Tranny?
On the 1998-2004 (except Direct inject engines) the transmission is a sealed unit and doesn't have a dipstick. To check it the truck should be warmed up but not excessively hot. With the e-brake on an the wheels blocked, start the engine, place your shifter in neutral, remove the upper fill plug on the transmission and the fluid should just dribble out.
samijo
06-28-2004, 05:40 PM
Thanks guys! You are the best. I am really glad I found this website.
KJK
06-30-2004, 09:21 PM
Since we're on the subject of tranny issues maybe someone can answer this... When cold my '98 Rodeo seems to hold the shifts a lot longer than after it's driven about a mile. It's like it's stuck in first and then second no matter if you let off the gas. It will only shift up to the next gear at around 2800-3000rpm. After a few blocks it shifts normally. It's always done this but I find it mildly annoying. Anyone else? Do they all do this?
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