Hard to start
orionjunky
06-27-2004, 09:12 AM
I have a 4.3L(X) ZR2, a few months ago I began having problems starting it. As it sits now it has to take 2 or three cranks to get it to start, and if I just bear down on the starter it does not start. I have replaced the fuel pump relay, and fuel filter. The fuel pump does run for two or three seconds when I turn on the key and I am getting good pressure. I have tried cycling the key several times before starting and this does not help. Aside from taking it to a mechanic, I am at a loss for what to do, any advive would be helpful.
orionjunky
06-27-2004, 09:14 AM
I should also add, once I get it started it runs like a champ.
96Civ
06-27-2004, 12:48 PM
Are you on the gas when you start? Do you pump the gas pedal? Not even touch it?
orionjunky
06-27-2004, 03:27 PM
I do not touch the gas pedal when I am starting it.
96Civ
06-27-2004, 06:11 PM
Try this... push the gas pedal all the way down and release. Push it again but only hold it half way and then try to start the car. This usually works for more newer type cars.
orionjunky
06-28-2004, 09:51 AM
96civ, I Tried the gas pedal sequence this morning but still took 4 cranks to get it started.
rlith
06-29-2004, 09:14 AM
Your injector pod is probably leaking OR the check valve in your tank is bad...
orionjunky
07-04-2004, 02:38 PM
Is there a way I can check these parts for functionality on my own?
rlith
07-04-2004, 03:04 PM
Is there a way I can check these parts for functionality on my own?
Yes, pull the upper plenum and look for signs of washing...(for the injector)
To check for the check valve issue, once you've verified that the injector is good, hook a pressure gauge up to the shrader valve on the fuel lines at the intake... Turn the key to the run position, don't start it, then look at the pressure, turn off the car, if your pressure drops rapidly (within 5 minutes) you have a faulty check valve in the tank..
Yes, pull the upper plenum and look for signs of washing...(for the injector)
To check for the check valve issue, once you've verified that the injector is good, hook a pressure gauge up to the shrader valve on the fuel lines at the intake... Turn the key to the run position, don't start it, then look at the pressure, turn off the car, if your pressure drops rapidly (within 5 minutes) you have a faulty check valve in the tank..
orionjunky
07-07-2004, 09:59 AM
More information about my problem. I started my truck this morning and it Idled at about 2000 RPM's for about 5 minutes, wether I was sitting at a light or in gear and driving, I just didn't have to use the gas pedal much. Is this a separate problem, or is this part of the original? It has done this in the past but it is very infrequent.
skyboss
07-22-2004, 11:48 AM
Did you fix your starting problem? I have the same problem. Engine turns over fine and runs fine when it finally starts. It starts pretty good first thing in the morning but when it's warm it cranks and cranks and finally starts sometimes it stumbles and coughs to a start with the strong smell of fuel or the engine races to 2000rpm and slowly settles down. New pump and filter, new plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. I think it is the fuel pressure regulator, but I wondered what you found out.
1994 S-10 4.3L TBI
1994 S-10 4.3L TBI
orionjunky
07-22-2004, 03:24 PM
I am still trying to find the problem, I just changed the cap and rotor with no positive results. I did not use my truck for several days, so I went out and checked the pressure on the relief valve and it had absolutely no pressure. The Chilton book I have says that the pressure should remain 60-66 psi even when the engine is off and has been sitting, so I am thinking either 1. my fuel regulator is bad and slowly bleeding off the pressure. 2. the seals in the fuel pump are bad and is bleeding off the pressure. or 3. the seal to the fuel meter body assembly is bad and is bleeding off the pressure. I have not dealt with central sequential fuel injection (CSFI) before so I am a bit squeemish about digging in and screwing something up because this chilton manual is a piece of crap when it comes to accurate diagrams. I think my next move will be to cap off the fuel line at the fuel filter and cycle the key a few times this should charge the line with pressure, then, I will wait a few days and remove the cap to see if the line holds pressure. If it does I will have to dig into the (CSFI), if not the problem should be in the fuel pump.
orionjunky
09-22-2004, 10:33 AM
So I ended up taking it to the dealer and spent the $60 to have them diagnose the problem and they said the fuel pump was bad, so I changed it and the truck starts like a champ now.
BlazerLT
09-22-2004, 11:21 PM
Wow, ain't that a bitch.
I would have never thought of that.
I would have never thought of that.
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